I ordered me a 3x12x44 leapers scope. Still a low end scope, $140 but had great reviews. Started shooting 2 days ago and again pretty much the same result. Yesterday I took it off and started over gun up with the mounts etc. Started shooting this time letting the gun sit loose on my shoulder and not touching with the hand I would normally use for support. at 25 yards my last group of 5 I had 4 in the same hole and the other almost touching. With all that said, what was it that I was doing wrong? The mounts maybe? Maybe just the way I was shooting the gun? I ask this because I have another gun Im going to be sighting in today and dont want it to be a nightmare. Thanks!Jimmy
A few tips from a fellow newbie springer owner . First , do not add the scope . A new springer will "diesel" , and can damaged the scope . Get a tin of cheap pellets and shoot them all practicing the "artillery hold" , finding a repeatable hold is important . Then clean barrel (googone w/ felt pellets worked for me). Then mount and zero scope . Find a pellet the gun likes , open it start shooting and by the time its empty , your gun should be broken in and shooting fine . Patience..after you get to know your gun ,and its broken in , you'll be getting crows @45yrds with a break barrel .
As above, you've begun your education on how to shoot a springer. Congrats. Do a search on hold sensitivity, artillery hold and related topics and you'll find plenty of info on how to shoot a springer. Lots of info in the European Gate, all countries, since spring piston guns have many countries of origin.
You won't see if you have a droop issue until you mount a scope to the rifle. A mounted scope starts out as parallel to the compression tube...which is where scopes are mounted. If the barrel is not parallel to the rifle compression tube...most point downward to the compression tube. It shoots way low to the scope zero point. Again,... the 2nd video I provided should help you understand the droop/scope relationship and how to address it.Make sure you start with your scope "optically centered" before you start. This tells you how much droop you have. For example...if you aim at the bull at 20 yards, and all your shots are tight, but are 4" low...you have some droop. At 10 yards you may see less, but it still exists. Each click of adjustmentgives you 1/4" correction at 100 yards. But this only gives you 1/16th (25%) of an inch correction at 25 yards...and only 0.025"(10%) at 10 yards. Thats just not that much. I'm sure you can see how easy it is too crank the heck out of your adjustment and erector tube. A loose erector spring lets the crosshairs move from shot to shot. Not Good. Here is the link about droop and scopes. I Hope you'll take a few and watch it.Just watched all 3 videos and I appreciate the info. This may very well be my issue. Im sighting in another gun today and Im going to shim it if I see im having group issues as he was stating. Thank you sir.
I suspect the issue with your Springer getting better groups with the scope off, was that when you had the scope on, you had a certain cheek weld. When you took it off you probably had a slightly different cheek weld to use the iron sights. The slightest difference in pressure or hold will open up your groups. The key is consistency with hold and cheek weld when shooting a Springer. It's also possible at one point earlier on with the "bad" groups that the scope or mount were slightly moving from the Springer's double-recoil, and you corrected it with the last re-installation.Harry
Quote from: only1harry on February 18, 2016, 03:39:22 PMI suspect the issue with your Springer getting better groups with the scope off, was that when you had the scope on, you had a certain cheek weld. When you took it off you probably had a slightly different cheek weld to use the iron sights. The slightest difference in pressure or hold will open up your groups. The key is consistency with hold and cheek weld when shooting a Springer. It's also possible at one point earlier on with the "bad" groups that the scope or mount were slightly moving from the Springer's double-recoil, and you corrected it with the last re-installation.HarryI was thinking same as Harry but also (same time) while slightly difference in cheek weld there may be parallax issue. Set scope to parallax @ target distance?
Many breakbarrel rifles have "droop". Nothing severe, nor is it hard to correct when mounting your scope. You want your scope mounting so that you don't have to adjust it much, from "Optical Center". Shimming or a droop compensating mount cures this. Bottom line is keep the crosshairs as close to "Optical Center" as possible.Here is a couple videos about scope mounting that you may find helpful. The next covers "droop"..There are some good videos on airgun academy that offer good insight to new airgunners.https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2011/02/episode-20-how-to-use-trajectory-to-sight-in-a-scope/https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2011/02/episode-19-how-to-compensate-for-barrel-droop/Thank you very much for this post and the attachments! And here is one on the "artillery hold" that I think all new springer owners should see:https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2015/12/episode-35-artillery-hold/