Just finished spring install couple ???'s

[Springer25]

I just finished up installing the apex seal, tarantula spring, on petes custom guide set.  I lubed with moly around side of seal just behind seal on piston and at the rear of the piston, I used moly on the guides where spring slides on, front of tophat around washers, I used heavy tar on the outside of the spring all around.

For install I tried using the outside of a coke can, it helped a little but the seal was damaged a little on the front of the backside of the cocking slot.  The spring has ALOT of compression on it almost where it looks like it's bending it slightly. Now I'm just waiting for my parts from crosman.  Anyone have any input as far as the spring goes?  thanx

[larspawn]

Did you buy your spring set?  If not it's about 1.5-2 inches longer than it will be post set. The Tarantula is also a more stout spring than stock or the e3650.

If you didn't debur the cocking slot, there is high liklihood you damaged the seal.  Shoot it 100 times and see if your shot spread is large.  If so a new seal, after debur be in order.

Andy

[Springer25]

yea how do you "debur" that area?  I definitely shaved a little off the seal.  I know that for a fact.  I guess we will see how bad the spread is when I get my parts from crosman.  I ordered seals from crosman, but I'm assuming the apex seal is better.  considering it cost 8x more

[larspawn]

I debur mine with a set of needle files into the slot.  Then I use sandpaper wrapped on a stick like a shim or a paint stirrer.  Finally I clean up the inside using a wooden dowel with a slot cut into it.  Fold some sandpaper and stick it in the slot.  Chuck it up in a cordless drill and smooth away at the slot from inside.  I'd pay special attention to rear facing parts of the slots.  Those are what will cut the seal.  Oh, make sure you clean out the inside very well once you are done.  If done right you will do minimal to no damage upon reinsertion of the piston with seal on it.  

Andy

[MichaelM]

I use a trick by taking a strip of sand paper folding it in half then putting the folded end into the slot... then I take a dowel and put it inside the tube and inside the the folded sand paper... The sand paper basicaly runs into the tube around the dowel and back out the tube through the slot.... then just pull the sand paper back and forth and it will knock off the edge and give you a nice taper to it.... then use needle files for the corners and areas facing front and back....

[Pete]

Heres how i do it...quick easy..no need to spend ages scrathing around with sand papper or a dremal..

run a de-burring tool along the slot/holes..then use a fine flapper wheel on the inside
of the slot end..it will round ALL corners off..."you will need to make a exstention
for the flapper wheel"...It will round/smoothen all holes/slot edges off...

[Springer25]

The de-burring tool seems like the way to go.  that and needle files will prob work well.  I need to get some all the files I have are too big.

  I caught the bug now I just opened up my ruger air hawk and cleaned/ lubed it.  shot it a few times and it cocks smooth and actually feels like there is alot less recoil.  Now I feel pretty confident in what I did.  I just think I may be opening the g1 back up to replace that seal in the future.  

Thanx for the tips guys.  

[Rocker1]

pete heres something I use. I seen this porting and polishing kits at a automotive store so I went back and took a gun cleaning rod with me and they screw on the ends of the rods I use them to hone the chambers and they deburr the slot pretty well I still use a small file though. you can just add another rod to extend the depth. thanks david

[Pete]

pete heres something I use. I seen this porting and polishing kits at a automotive store so I went back and took a gun cleaning rod with me and they screw on the ends of the rods I use them to hone the chambers and they deburr the slot pretty well I still use a small file though. you can just add another rod to extend the depth. thanks david

Heve yer seen those cyclinder hones that have little adbrasive balls on flexable rods about 30 on a hone. They can hone over holes /slots /steps etc.. would be great for a air gun as yer could hone the whole length of the tube..  But I have not seen one small enough...

[Rocker1]

yes pete i have several of those  from way back when we used to rebuild wheel cylinders and master cylinders. they work well to. they are kinda expensive, i used one on my phantom but the rod is not longer enough you can get them down to 7 eigths of an inch here. thanks david 

[Springer25]

I went ahead and bought a deburring tool, when the barrel and parts get here I'm going to run it through about a hundred pellets then i'll start chronying her.  se what my spread is.. if it's real bad then I'll probobly just tear it apart deburr and put in a new seal.

[pgsmith]

Has anyone tried one of these, used for a wheel cylinder.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-8-eighth-inch-brake-cylinder-hone-97163.html

[Rocker1]

you have to be really carefull with that hone it will catch on the slot and break the stones but if you carefull and get it by the slots it will work to. thanks david

[MichaelM]

Has anyone tried one of these, used for a wheel cylinder.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-8-eighth-inch-brake-cylinder-hone-97163.html

Like rocker said you cant hone the whole tube with one of those it will catch in the slot and bust... that being said thats more or less what I use to hone the compression cylinder with.... just have to modify the stone holders a tad so that it will cut all the way to the end of the cylinder....

[Springer25]

wow $4  not bad I'll have to pick one of those up... and do that when I end up tearin the g1 down again.  I am still waiting on parts from crosman. 

Does anyone know where else I can get the breach seals at???  quickly