P-rod trigger

[aPpYe]

Okay, I think this 2400kt is essentially a disco now.  I have a disco tube, valve, spring...

I now want to upgrade the trigger group to a two stage and I figured I would try the p-rod group...  The hammer I have is the one that came with the gun.  It has the notch on the front.

I saw a post by rsterne that shows how he got it working on a 1377, but I am not finding specific information for my gun.   The hammer he has in that thread shows the notch in the middle.

Will the hammer I currently have work, or should I get another hammer as well?  Also, can I just buy the internal parts, minus the frame and use the 2400kt frame?  I was gonna see if it is any cheaper this way.

[FuzzyGrub]

The notch in the hammer will be dependant on the breech screw location.  Hammer has to clear it.   The disco breech has the attachment screw in a different place than the original oem steel breech.   I don't know what is stock on the 2400kt and couldn't find schematic.  The disco airtube has threaded holes for both.   

Buy the complete 2 stage w/frame.   The grip frames are different.  I am not sure if it needs a notched prod hammer for the sear to work.  You would get throw adjustment with it. 

[aPpYe]

The notch in the hammer will be dependant on the breech screw location.  Hammer has to clear it.   The disco breech has the attachment screw in a different place than the original oem steel breech.   I don't know what is stock on the 2400kt and couldn't find schematic.  The disco airtube has threaded holes for both.   

Buy the complete 2 stage w/frame.   The grip frames are different.  I am not sure if it needs a notched prod hammer for the sear to work.  You would get throw adjustment with it.

Okay, so the brand new disco tube matched perfectly with the tube I already had in it, so I am thinking the trigger group will be a drop in replacement then. 

The reason I was asking about buying it piecemeal was because I wanted to both save some money and not have an extra grip lying around.   I use the standard hollowed out crosman pistol grip rifle buttstock, and not pistol grips.  Does that make a difference?

[FuzzyGrub]

OEM grips and stocks should work on both.  Some wood grips need to be clearance for pins.

Even if the frames were the same and you saved $10 that way, not worth the effort, outside of learning experience.  Also, if concerned on cost, you could probably sell the existing complete for that much or more.  Most aren't going to be interested in individual trigger parts. 

[rsterne]

The PRod trigger, when used with a 13XX or 22XX/Disco hammer, will require you to pull the trigger to cock the gun, because of the "waist" in the trigger.... The easy solution is to use the PRod hammer as well, which is straight on the bottom and prevents the sear from popping up and locking....

Bob

[aPpYe]

The PRod trigger, when used with a 13XX or 22XX/Disco hammer, will require you to pull the trigger to cock the gun, because of the "waist" in the trigger.... The easy solution is to use the PRod hammer as well, which is straight on the bottom and prevents the sear from popping up and locking....

Bob

Okay, I will go that route.  Obviously I will need to carve a notch into the front of it, and I like that the sides are flat, allowing air to escape past the hammer as it heads toward the pin.  Looking at the P-Rod schematic (BP2220) I see that in addition to the hammer (CH2009A009), I may also need the "striker" (P/N 1763A036) ... I am guessing it is a threaded piece that goes into the front of the hammer.  Does this mean the hammer is adjustable for throw?

Also the hammer pin (1700-015) is a different part number from the one that goes on the Discovery.  I might as well get it, but I would like to know what the differences are.  I am hoping I don't have to modify the tube to accept that or anything...

Does anyone know the weight of both the assembled P-rod hammer and the Disco hammer? 

[rsterne]

Instead of getting the striker, just use a 1/4-28 setscrew and grind the point flat.... Set that flush with the front of the hammer, with a drop of blue Loctite, and you're good to go.... I don't use hammer stroke adjustments, their only real use is detuning for lower pressures.... The weights are similar enough not to affect the performance....

Bob

[aPpYe]

Instead of getting the striker, just use a 1/4-28 setscrew and grind the point flat.... Set that flush with the front of the hammer, with a drop of blue Loctite, and you're good to go.... I don't use hammer stroke adjustments, their only real use is detuning for lower pressures.... The weights are similar enough not to affect the performance....

Bob

Okay, I kinda thought this might be the case.  I will check and see if the hardware store has that size.   Also, I remember you posting in an old thread where someone was wanting to shorten the valve stem on his disco.  You mentioned that he could shave as much as .070" off before other modifications would be needed to prevent things like the hammer pin running out space in the slot or even hitting the back of the bolt.  I would think I could accomplish the same thing (with the same limitations) by adjusting the 1/4-28 setscrew to be recessed into the hammer...?  I am wanting to do this because with the SSG installed (maximum preload and zero gap) I am unable to reach the power I can otherwise, without using a heavier spring.  I am hoping I might be able to get away with a lighter spring...  The stem itself sticks out quite a ways and leaves plenty of room for adjustment.