New Fusion here

[nodak]

I got the fusion after much debate and it just arrived. God feel to it but what a loooong trigger. I read about the trigger ideas people have done. Would the the trigger be able to be fixed allot if I removed the safety altogether? I am perfectly fine using the bolt as my safety.if it'll improve the super long creep.

Ill be doing a tear down and clean up sometime in the next week before I shoot it. Might even get the better cap and o-rings.

[Ribbonstone]

Fusion’s trigger is my one main complaint, and the thing messing up the trigger is the self-set safety.

Have tried to cure it and keep the safety as a manual (so it won’t self set), but for a really nice trigger, the safety hoses you even as a manual set.

Open bolt won’t really help.  Trigger pulled, bold flies forward and the gun fires (it’s weaker and a good bit of gas escapes from the unliocked bolt, but it will spit a pellet out).


Older post (up dated):

FIXING THE TRIGGER/SAFETY:

Fusion safety/trigger:


PART ONE: How the self-setting safety works:

And while I cannot draw for sour-snot, these are the important bits:




The auto set is the part hanging off the end of the sear (in black above).  A little spring-loaded bit that whacks the safety back and forth (and being spring loaded, it can snap back over the raised parts).


The end of the trigger is actually slotted to allow that spring-loaded part to pass though, but of course it isnt made nice enough to pass though cleanly, so it rubs and scratches its way though the slot.

Going to call it the SPRING LOADED DINGUS:



The above parts are pinned to the sear, and can be unpinned and removed.  Notice this one has a crack, which may have always been there or may have happened when it was unpinned.

#2. Converting to SELF SET SAFETY:

Now if you put it all back together without the spring-loaded-dingus, the trigger will work and the safety will work, its just not going to auto set.


BUT YOU ARE NOT IN THE CLEAR YET!


The safety works by sliding back and forth.  When it slides back, the upraised arm of the safety slides under the tip of the trigger, preventing its movement.

If you adjust the trigger to a nice pull, the safety arm to too tall to slide under the tip of the trigger and the safety doesn’t work.


The cure (if you want a functioning manual safety) is to shorten the arm that is sticking up until it just barely jams under the tip of the adjusted trigger.


This is one place where exact measurement will get you into trouble.  You DO NEED to get it just right, but there are two factors working against just measuring and shortening.

1.The trigger housing on the Fusion is plastic, so it has a little bit of give/stretch to it.
2. The safety is a loosely fitted part, running a captive spring-loaded ball, and has a lot of slack.

So its going to be a case of cut and try, going slowly until the safety will just fit under the trigger and stop its rotation.

#3. NO SAFETY:

If you just remove tall the parts to the  safety, there is no safety.  Even with the bolt open and back, it will fire if the trigger is pulled.  Will leak from the unlocked bolt, but still power a pellet out.

[Kailua]

If the trigger group is similar to the first generation XS60C I am guessing that a two stage trigger mod may work with the safety.  JMO

[Whatsquirrel]

It definitely needs to be cleaned they don't hesitate in greasing the thing up. A lot of grease in side. I removed my safety all together & don't load it till I'm ready to shoot. While the trigger is out I played with the adjustment screws in the back of the trigger group & got a good trigger, not as good as my prod or my at44 but it is a whole lot better than what it was. They are very acct guns, love mine, it shoots beeman fts copper 8.80gr pellets the best. Good luck with it. Here's a 30 yrs 10 shot group.