DIY trigger?

[Rivers3Plinker]

I've been looking at the various aftermarket triggers for 13xx platform guns on eBay and elsewhere and wondered how difficult it would be to make your own out of some 1/4 thick aluminum sheet stock. Has anyone here attempted to do this using basic shop tools, no vertical mill or anything like that just a drill press, maybe a band saw and a sander? I'm thinking about giving it a shot and just wondered who's made their own and if you have done it, do you have any tips or suggestions?

Thanks in advance

[Rivers3Plinker]

By the way, I'm only speaking of the blade and the real reason I'm debating it is because I was looking at trigger shoes too. Why buy when you can make something that's just as good,  potentially better?

[BillK]

I'll tell you why I buy triggers.  Don Cothran roller trigger is the best I have found.  It is on a par with the 1701P trigger group IMO.  Still need to polish sear & hammer & new spring & guide work but the trigger makes a big difference.  The more discerning shooters prefer the 1701P trigger group. (I'm not that good)
I have the same lack of tools as you and could only make a mess.  Hope you are much more talented than I, wouldn't take much, and can get the job done.

[Railbuggy]

I like the adjustable trigger that came with my custom 2400KT. I shortened the spring by two coils and have it adjusted just enough for it not to have any play. Very little take up and less pressure to send a pellet down the road.

[breakfastchef]

Making a direct copy of a Crosman trigger may not be all that difficult if you have the right tools and know how. Incorporating a wide face for your finger is a good start. Buying a $10 trigger shoe from Bryan & Associates was a better solution for me.

Straying from the design of the Crosman trigger blade would involve engineering and mathematical (i.e. geometry) skill plus lots of teting to get it right. For this reason people prefer to buy off the shelf designs from various makers that address many of the shortcomings of the OEM trigger.

[Rivers3Plinker]

I'll tell you why I buy triggers.  Don Cothran roller trigger is the best I have found.  It is on a par with the 1701P trigger group IMO.  Still need to polish sear & hammer & new spring & guide work but the trigger makes a big difference.  The more discerning shooters prefer the 1701P trigger group. (I'm not that good)
I have the same lack of tools as you and could only make a mess.  Hope you are much more talented than I, wouldn't take much, and can get the job done.

I have looked at that one a number of times too. By far one of the best looking triggers and has that roller on it which seems like a great idea.

[JMJ in NC]

I think the gold standard of Crosman triggers is the 1701P trigger ($40) with a shoe ($10). The 1701P trigger comes with a grip frame, but the components should fit right into any newer 1377/1322. You'll have to fill the groove on the hammer, as the sear engages the front face of the hammer, not the groove.

FWIW, I have the 1701P trigger (I installed just the trigger group and sold the grip frame) and it is a big step up from a thoroughly polished & lightened 1377 trigger. I added my own custom-made shoe.



JMJ

[Rivers3Plinker]

I think the gold standard of Crosman triggers is the 1701P trigger ($40) with a shoe ($10). The 1701P trigger comes with a grip frame, but the components should fit right into any newer 1377/1322. You'll have to fill the groove on the hammer, as the sear engages the front face of the hammer, not the groove.

FWIW, I have the 1701P trigger (I installed just the trigger group and sold the grip frame) and it is a big step up from a thoroughly polished & lightened 1377 trigger. I added my own custom-made shoe.



JMJ

This is what I'm going to do - thanks for the suggestion!
For the money I get a lot more adjustability than a suped-up 13xx standard trigger and sear. The only hassle will be the hammer weight and I can handle that. I have seen guys filling with JB weld and coating with the cryoacrylate glue etc. By chance does anyone make or sell a solid hammer or are guys just making them or what?
I will use the spare frame for templating grips and stocks.
Thanks again.

[Vertguy]

Mellon Air does offer a smooth hammer as I have one on mine and it was only $17 shipped (not listed on his website as you just need to request one via email)... the caveat is wait time as he is typically running a 12 plus week backlog. And mine took exactly 12 weeks last fall to deliver.

[JMJ in NC]

The only hassle will be the hammer weight and I can handle that. I have seen guys filling with JB weld and coating with the cryoacrylate glue etc.

I have a filled hammer on mine. Use the steel-filled "slow set" JB weld, as you need a hard material there to resist wear from the sear.

JMJ

[Rivers3Plinker]

The only hassle will be the hammer weight and I can handle that. I have seen guys filling with JB weld and coating with the cryoacrylate glue etc.

I have a filled hammer on mine. Use the steel-filled "slow set" JB weld, as you need a hard material there to resist wear from the sear.

JMJ

Has anyone tried inserting a section of steel or another material at the bottom as part of the glue-up epoxy to function as a wear strip?
Also I know you transfered the guts and sold the 1701p frame, but is there any reason I can't just put this frame assembly as-is on the 2289 pump tube?

Parts are ordered and I spoke with Beth. They are super nice folks over there. I can't wait to check this out and start working on the mods. I added other parts because combined with the rest of my left-overs I will have the components to build a stock valved, stock breeched 1322 with a 12.5 inch barrel which I can sell. I will re-crown it and work the lead-in a bit to sweeten the deal.

Feeding the addiction again....It's bad but it's so good.

[mattd0401]

i used a bryan and associates trigger shoe and a 13xx super sear from archer air (might be the same design cdt use to sell, not sure). i thought it made a difference. you can definatly predict when the sear is going to break. was debating whether or not to add an adjustable sear spring on it. dont know if it will make much difference. i've never shot a 1701 though so i am probably missing out on something

[JMJ in NC]

The whole 1701p frame bolts right on. I transferred the trigger group in mine because I have an extra hole tapped on the bottom of my grip frame to tighten up my 1399 rear stock. I'd have had to recreate this tapped hole in the new 1701P frame. As it was, I just drilled and tapped a hole in the trigger guard for the trigger limit screw in my existing frame.

I suppose you could fill the sear contact area with something harder, but remember you have to smooth this area after filling. The hammer is hardened steel, so machining this area and inserting something flush with the OD will be difficult. I chucked mine in a lathe and turned & polished the filled area to the same diameter as the hammer OD.

JMJ

[Rivers3Plinker]

The whole 1701p frame bolts right on. I transferred the trigger group in mine because I have an extra hole tapped on the bottom of my grip frame to tighten up my 1399 rear stock. I'd have had to recreate this tapped hole in the new 1701P frame. As it was, I just drilled and tapped a hole in the trigger guard for thue trigger limit screw in my existing frame.

I suppose you could fill the sear contact area with something harder, but remember you have to smooth this area after filling. The hammer is hardened steel, so machining this area and inserting something flush with the OD will be difficult. I chucked mine in a lathe and turned & polished the filled area to the same diameter as the hammer OD.

JMJ

Excellent - thanks!
I did the same as you with my 1399 stock and I'll just drill and tap again. That is a great mod. I ordered a couple hammer weights. I did recently learn the hard way these are hardened, no pun intended. Had to resharpen a drill bit after that brief experience.

I'll use my small pen lathe with 4 jaw chuck and and wing it. Could I have used the 1701 / marauder weight or no? Just a thought.

Greatly appreciate this info. Thanks!

[Vertguy]

I assume the weight you are referring to is the hammer, correct? If so, the 1701p and P-rod hammer is a larger diameter... Actually the same as a 2240. So when doing the trigger swap on that gun you can just get the 1701p hammer and striker (reuse the existing pin) for a direct swap with no other modding required.

[Rivers3Plinker]

I assume the weight you are referring to is the hammer, correct? If so, the 1701p and P-rod hammer is a larger diameter... Actually the same as a 2240. So when doing the trigger swap on that gun you can just get the 1701p hammer and striker (reuse the existing pin) for a direct swap with no other modding required.

Duh...I forgot the CO2 tube is larger. I don't have a 2240 ( yet ) so it didn't occur to me.

I have another idea on hammer weight so I will start another thread.