How do you mount a scope on this?

[Karl der Grosse]

Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated!

[woogie_man]

Would a mosin nagant scope rail work?

You may be able to make a mount for it, using an old rail.

If not may have to go with the irons.   

[Norm_m]

Have you looked real close to see how the iron sights are mounted? They may have been drilled and taped into the tube. If so you may be able to do the same with a rail mount. This could possibly work as long as you stay away from the chamber area and make sure the bolts do not extend into the tube. I would think a machinist or gunsmith would be able to do that for you. From what I have been reading on here I am sure that there are a couple of GTA members that could do it.
Just an idea to concider and to look into.

[TCups]

J & B Weld (epoxy)

[Rescue35]

As already mentioned, I would drill and tap the tube if possible.

Welding tabs or odd brackets are also possible. Maybe a clamp of sorts.

Definatly check to see if it can be drilled and tapped first.

[Pete]

Ok..
Its pretty simple really...
you have 2 mount point there....the standard site mount at the front
and the cross pin / rear block in the rear of the gun...could drill and tap in that area
make a rail out of 20mm X3mm stainless flat bar that is fastened at each end...
Weaver rings will clamp to it "have done it"

To drill & tap the tube in the centre as there is a slideing chamber
thats a close fit in the tube...the main tube only haveing like a 1.6mm wall thickness
any screw that has a thread fine enough to get a few threads in a 1.6mm wall will
need to be around 3mm dia...you would need at least 4 or more to not shear in time
IE... a 3mm screw has a .5mm pitch so yer would get 3 threads in the 1.6mm wall....
4mm has a .7 pitch so 2.2 threads
5mm has a .8 pitch so 1.8 threads
6mm has a 1.0 pitch so 1.6 threads...
yer get the idea ?

[Karl der Grosse]

You folks are really helpful!

pete, I get the idea, but I am not sure I want to tackle it.  And I am not sure it is worth paying to have it done.

I MAY just have to look into a new AG.  Hmmmmmmm.....

Thanks everyone!

[SDale]

Pay a visit to a few Mom and Pop gun shops in the area and see if they have any Steel Weaver Bases. If you find a set, then have them TIG welded to the top of the receiver tube. A MIG might work, but you run the risk of over penetration into the tube.

[uncle paulie]

You might also try silver solder, less heat than welding, but not quite as strong. Should be fine on an AG though.

pv

[AirScopes]

I was looking for a solution for my new RWS 54, and was discussing it here:

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,6951.0.html

What I do may not be beautiful, but I am looking to make it effective! Was considering a side-rail and sidemount like you might use on an AK47...

[Bullit]

http://www.weaveroptics.com/rings_bases/mountingsystems/convertamount.aspx

This is a Weaver Unit.  This is what I used. It's worked for me on a magnum shotgun.
I am using a Red Dot (Tube Type) and haven't had any problems, and you can remove the scope leaving the base on the AG. The actual mounting base is about 3/16" thick.

I can see this working if "inset" the base unit into the stock, in front of the trigger...since you have to address the centering of the scope over the chamber.

For screws, I'd look into setting 2 or 3 threaded inserts to the stock if you don't wanna go all the way thru the stock.  McMaster Carr sell many good ones in different sizes for reference.  I'm sure you could find a few, rather than buying 50pcs.

Hope this helps (A little).

[DMikeM]

You folks are really helpful!

pete, I get the idea, but I am not sure I want to tackle it.  And I am not sure it is worth paying to have it done.

I MAY just have to look into a new AG.  Hmmmmmmm.....

Thanks everyone!

Karl I did what Pete suggested to reattach a scope rail to a B30 as no epoxy or JB weld will hold a scope to that gun. It was actually very simple. Disassemble the AG. Center up the mount well, clamp it in place drill two holes through base and cylinder (I forget the drill size but went with 4mm tap). Remove clamps and base. ream out the base a little then tap the cylinder. Screw it down tight drill the other 2 holes repeat ream and tap. Then I recessed the screw heads and cut them short enough to allow the action to work. Once done I RED Lock Tight on the screws and mounted it. Set over night and all is good. There are plenty of folks here that can provide more detail. The base was 15 bucks and the rest maybe 10 bucks.

[Bullit]

Karl,
Lost this post and just to re-iterate, I'll get some pics for you and everyone to hash over.
I'll probably just start a new post under Side Mounting, or something like that.
Give me a day,

I'm on it Boss....