Krytox Lube

[Sfttailrdr46]

I use it in all the guns I service, as long as you don't drop them in a pond or puddle, like someone on here did, you should be ok...

Do you still use the heavy grease for the spring?

[OleTomCat]

I use it in all the guns I service, as long as you don't drop them in a pond or puddle, like someone on here did, you should be ok...

Do you still use the heavy grease for the spring?

No, used fitted external guide, this removes the need for extra grease...

[john]

Hate to be a nitpicker (wait...no I don't) but saying Krytox does not cause corrosion is not the same as saying it prevents corrosion. Try leaving the nails immersed in sea water. Hopefully, Krytox does indeed slow the inevitable. If you come up with something that actually prevents corrosion, tell the Navy. They will be happy to hear about it.

[TooJung2Die]

The questions about Krytox did prompt me to consider trying the GPL 105 (or 107) which is an oil instead of a thickened grease for lubing my piston seal and receiver/compression tube ID. The GPL205 grease is working fine as a lube for the other parts, however a non-dieseling piston seal "OIL" might be better than grease.

I used only Krytox GPL 106 oil to lube my Remington Summit after a main spring replacement. I have used moly/tar on two previous rebuilds. There was the expected dieseling for a few shots after the moly/tar lubes. Krytox does not diesel from the very first shot. I use it at work on very high temperature, high load bearings. It seems to last forever.

One thing I did and won't do again is add four drops down the transfer port to lube the seal after about a thousand shots. I wasn't sure it was needed at the time but didn't think it would hurt anything since Krytox never diesels. I worked the piston to transfer the Krytox to the whole cylinder and left the gun muzzle down uncocked for 24 hours.

First shot at 10 yards. No dieseling but the shot hit the dirt in front of the target. Next shot hit the backstop box at the bottom. Each successive shot was a little bit higher. It took about 100+ shots until the pattern was stable and every shot was back at the normal elevation. Even though there was no bang like dieseling there was some faint smoke like vapor at the breech on the first few shots.

I conclude that the lube I used during the first rebuild was sufficient and would have been enough for a very long time. Adding more only made matters worse until the excess was shot out. Krytox is some high tech stuff made to last a very long time.

Jon

[codytwoeyes]

McMaster Carr has the best price i have found.16 bucks a tube and it works well.

[nced]

The questions about Krytox did prompt me to consider trying the GPL 105 (or 107) which is an oil instead of a thickened grease for lubing my piston seal and receiver/compression tube ID. The GPL205 grease is working fine as a lube for the other parts, however a non-dieseling piston seal "OIL" might be better than grease.

I used only Krytox GPL 106 oil to lube my Remington Summit after a main spring replacement. I have used moly/tar on two previous rebuilds. There was the expected dieseling for a few shots after the moly/tar lubes. Krytox does not diesel from the very first shot. I use it at work on very high temperature, high load bearings. It seems to last forever.

One thing I did and won't do again is add four drops down the transfer port to lube the seal after about a thousand shots. I wasn't sure it was needed at the time but didn't think it would hurt anything since Krytox never diesels. I worked the piston to transfer the Krytox to the whole cylinder and left the gun muzzle down uncocked for 24 hours.

First shot at 10 yards. No dieseling but the shot hit the dirt in front of the target. Next shot hit the backstop box at the bottom. Each successive shot was a little bit higher. It took about 100+ shots until the pattern was stable and every shot was back at the normal elevation. Even though there was no bang like dieseling there was some faint smoke like vapor at the breech on the first few shots.

I conclude that the lube I used during the first rebuild was sufficient and would have been enough for a very long time. Adding more only made matters worse until the excess was shot out. Krytox is some high tech stuff made to last a very long time.

Jon

Thanks for the input! Think I'll try the "106" as a piston seal lube.

[sperho]

I just used some 205 on my ever squeaky front storn door that never latches because the catch hangs at the last second.  It fully closes now...  Worked great!  Will use it for bolt o-ring lube in my PCP as well.  Haven't put it in my springer yet...