custom crosman 2300

[1377x]

it started with just a tube and no direction.bought the tube on a whim because a shipment of 2300 tubes came in and no one noticed just thought they was 2240 tubes because thats what was ordered.
a very nice Droid made this build step to high gear by supplying me with a LW.177 10" barrel
now i have other builds i planned on finishing first,after receiving the LW barrel i felt the need to get this project under way.i was rummaging through the yellow classifieds and came across an ad for this   its a Pro-Top
  what is a Pro-Top you ask
Anthony R (fivestar45) can explain it better than i can

This is the replacement valve cap that allow owners of Crosman 22xx guns that use 12g powerlets to eliminate having performance hampered by the OEM stem mounted piercing pin. The piercing pin can be cut off a stock valve stem or you can switch to Disco stem, or any one of more efficient valve stems available that do not use the stem mounted piercing pin. In addition, after removing the front grip frame screw, by using a simple flat spanner the Pro-Top can be unscrewed from the front of the tube so ALL of the valve parts, including the stem and seals can be removed and serviced. These will fit most of the 22xx base valve body's including the Disco, and B&A's Boss.

  my thoughts are it will compliment the LW barrel nicely.now that everything is custom so far cant stop there.why not use the rear of a disco valve it would perform better than a 22xx valve with the piercing pin cut off plus it will be more customized by using the disco valve.
ok valve is covered what next.ah i have a mr007 tri-wing gas cap might as well put it to use this is a custom gun.i want the least amount of stock parts as possible.the main tube is covered except the rear tube cap still undecided about that so a disco rear tube cap will have to do for now,hey its not a 22xx cap so it fits the bill.ok main tube covered front to back.
 now the lonely LW barrel is screaming for a new home and it cant be a crosman home.what to do? what to do? the gun needs to be as light as possible, cant accomplish that with a stainless steel breech.back to the yellow.i came across another ad by yours truly Anthony R this time its for an aluminum breech with everything needed to get it up and running cant beat that look at the description
   

These fit most all of the 22xx platform rifles and pistols and are full length, aluminum with scope grooves, brushed finish. They weigh only 2.5 oz's as opposed to the same item in steel 7.2 oz's. The lefty's are especially nice for right hand pistol shooters. However, I have one Left, and one Right side bolt position. These have close tolerance reamed bolt bores to eliminate excess bolt "slop". Barrel bores are also reamed. Either breech comes with extended probe brass bolt and handle in either .177 or .22, bolt has hold open magnet, alum bolt bore plug, st/st Philips head breech screw in "NEW" rear location, 2 st/st barrel grub screws, and o ring.

just what im looking for and then some
the order was placed. look at that an extended probe bolt with  hold open magnet.never had one before so this is another plus.on top of that i get my choice of bolt handle about 8 to choose from, so i opted for a teardrop shaped stainless steel bolt handle  i must say this breech is very light adding very little weight to the gun another plus
 now that the barrel has a new home in the aluminum breech the muzzle start calling foul because it needs some protection from the elements and it also coughs up some lead dust what to do? i search aa classifieds and come across an ad by Anthony Storey.he has a nicely priced lead dust collector for sale its aluminum and wont ad to much weight either.another e-mail is placed this time to A Storey after a brief conversation he says give him a few day he will come up with something very nice for me.after hearing for the last couple of years that one should own an A Storey LDC i was very ecstatic a couple days after the conversation this arrives a beautiful bead blasted LDC
  to finish the build off i still need a trigger group.i have an old phase 2 1377 grip frame but no sear.i place an ad on the CAPOF wanteds and no sooner than my call for help was put out,it was answered by CHONGMAN once the sear gets here i can put the trigger group together and finish off the build
  curiosity got the best of me and i have to know what its going to look like when completed so i mocked it up using my p-rod grip frame and accustoms shroud.this what it looks like.this will change once the sear gets here

i did some more work to it

put the next touches to the custom 2300
i just didnt like the disco end cap on it and dont plan on using a power adjuster so i put a stock endcap on it along with a stock hammer spring was going to go with a 1377 hammer spring i think it will waste more gas than anything with the short 10" barrel
  i added this product http://www.mil-comm.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=46&Itemid=
to the sear/trigger pins, WOW!!! what a difference it makes the trigger pull so smooth its unbelievable, as of right now its better than my p-rod trigger pull.let me say im using the potmetal trigger. i tried dri-slide which is a molybdenum carrier it helped some, but the trigger pull was still gritty.when i say smooth thats like down playing it cant describe nor compare anything to it.absolutely no gritty feeling what so ever.just for kicks i added less than a drop to the bolt channel in my breech again the same outcome my bolt cocks so smooth its the best feeling.
  i was saying in another thread i made a wide brass trigger blade for my potmetal trigger.i was going to solder the blade to the trigger, but havent seen any successful reports of soldering potmetal to brass.havent looked either, asked here awhile ago no one reported back. i decided to use jbweld since its proven to bond just about anything together as long as its prepped right heres the outcome of my first wide blade trigger.not the best pic im not a photographer.when i refinish the frame i'll take a better pic



another thing i did was blue loc-tite the trigger/sear pin into the hole on one side.have no idea what thats going to do.all i know is when i take the plate off the pins dont fall out now.i want to add a third screw where the third screw is on the new grip frame.
 
 here it is in its current set up.the only thing thats going to change is the cast marks are going to be removed from the grip frame then it going to be recolored.might color the tube later on too.for now it stays as is


still to come chrony test and accuracy test so far its been on spot without sight in just added the red dot before pic was taken

[Backyardsniper1]

Great looking setup so far.

[1377x]

thanks! its almost done
i have to refinish the frame cut a recess into the bottom of the disco valve where it covers up the bleed hole in the tube and wood grips then its done
i really like the lw barrel so far i put beeman crow mags,crosman destroyer ex,crosman pointed and crosman wadcutters trough it at 10 yards all shoot great so far.
still have to run it across the chrony but its so cold here i wont get an accurate reading and no place to shoot it indoors glass everywhere.
i guess im going to have to take it to the air gun shop and chrony it there.

[gene_sc]

Great stuff 1377. Love the looks of it.
Gene