DAR trigger work

[randy_68]

A buddy of mine brought me a DAR .22 and asked me to look at his trigger and see if I could make it better.
Of course I said yes.
Out of the box it was 3 1/2# and gritty. It was hard to distinguish second stage and the break point as it had that sliding on pavement feel.
I tore it down and saw how it worked and proceeded to see what I could do.
I left the sear spring alone but I lightly stretched the trigger spring not wanting to overdo it. I polished all the contact areas and applied some moly to them. There is basically only one adjustment which is the screw through the trigger guard in front. Out of the box it didn't do anything so I was looking for a longer screw but after reassembly it's not needed..
Stretching the trigger spring or replacing with a lighter one iif you're fortunate enough to find one,, helps with initial first stage pull weight..
So after reassembly it now has a very light first stage a nice hard wall and breaks at 1 3/4 pounds. The screw though the trigger guard adjusts the sear engagement and works as its supposed to setting the break very crisp. I think its way better than before and hascthe second stage feel we all seem to like.

[Firewalker]

A buddy of mine brought me a DAR .22 and asked me to look at his trigger and see if I could make it better.
Of course I said yes.
Out of the box it was 3 1/2# and gritty. It was hard to distinguish second stage and the break point as it had that sliding on pavement feel.
I tore it down and saw how it worked and proceeded to see what I could do.
I left the sear spring alone but I lightly stretched the trigger spring not wanting to overdo it. I polished all the contact areas and applied some moly to them. There is basically only one adjustment which is the screw through the trigger guard in front. Out of the box it didn't do anything so I was looking for a longer screw but after reassembly it's not needed..
Stretching the trigger spring or replacing with a lighter one iif you're fortunate enough to find one,, helps with initial first stage pull weight..
So after reassembly it now has a very light first stage a nice hard wall and breaks at 1 3/4 pounds. The screw though the trigger guard adjusts the sear engagement and works as its supposed to setting the break very crisp. I think its way better than before and hascthe second stage feel we all seem to like.

Randy,

That's exactly what I have done to 2 of 3 of the DARs I own. The triggers are butter now but I also added moly to each of the pivot points as well as the washers/shims on either side of the trigger. Thus seemed to smooth out any lingering roughness.

Also, I turned the adjusting screw in until I couldn't cock the bolt then backed off 1 full turn and bumped the butt while cocked but empty to see if it would trip.

I do want to make another trigger with a straight blade and wider for less fatigue as I like to shoot a tin at a time if I can.

Thank you for the write up.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Great write-up on this trigger improvement!  The only down side I see, for me anyway, is getting everything back together again!  I hate having to get pins through parts, such as springs, that have a tendency to not line up properly, or want to flop around in a confined area where I never seem to be able to control their movement!  But, that may just be a combination of bad eyesight, fat fingers and just being old!  LOL!

[randy_68]

I also added moly to the pivot points and washers, just forgot to mention that. Thanks for pointing that out.

[Firewalker]

Great write-up on this trigger improvement!  The only down side I see, for me anyway, is getting everything back together again!  I hate having to get pins through parts, such as springs, that have a tendency to not line up properly, or want to flop around in a confined area where I never seem to be able to control their movement!  But, that may just be a combination of bad eyesight, fat fingers and just being old!  LOL!

Paul, have you worked on a DAR trigger yet? You would be surprised at how easy it is to reassemble it.

My advice? Use tweezers and capture the spring loops with the pins first then align the sear with your punch on one side and then insert the pivot pin from the other side.

EZPZ

[nervoustrigger]

Well done!  Similar trigger work significantly enhanced the accuracy of both my DARs.  I recommend also adding a spring plunger to the trigger guard to give a little tactile wall just before the sear releases.  That has proven to be a fantastic upgrade for me.



An M4 works well if you have the trigger polished up and adjusted for a light pull.  Step up to an M5 if your trigger is a bit heavier, otherwise you may not be able to feel it.

M4: 

M5:

[Firewalker]

Well done!  Similar trigger work significantly enhanced the accuracy of both my DARs.  I recommend also adding a spring plunger to the trigger guard to give a little tactile wall just before the sear releases.  That has proven to be a fantastic upgrade for me.



An M4 works well if you have the trigger polished up and adjusted for a light pull.  Step up to an M5 if your trigger is a bit heavier, otherwise you may not be able to feel it.

M4: 

M5:

Jason, that's perfect! I'll order a set tonight along with an m4x16 tap.

Imagine a hard wall 2 stage trigger for a buck!

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Great write-up on this trigger improvement!  The only down side I see, for me anyway, is getting everything back together again!  I hate having to get pins through parts, such as springs, that have a tendency to not line up properly, or want to flop around in a confined area where I never seem to be able to control their movement!  But, that may just be a combination of bad eyesight, fat fingers and just being old!  LOL!

Paul, have you worked on a DAR trigger yet? You would be surprised at how easy it is to reassemble it.

My advice? Use tweezers and capture the spring loops with the pins first then align the sear with your punch on one side and then insert the pivot pin from the other side.

EZPZ

Thanks David!  I only had the trigger out, I did not venture any further into it to do anything with the sear.  I may have to go back in and finish the job.  Thanks for the tip!

[randy_68]

One more thing to note---these pins are one way pins as they have serrations on one end to keep them tight. They push out from left to right and go back in from right to left..

[nervoustrigger]

Jason, that's perfect!  I'll order a set tonight along with an m4x16 tap.

No problem!  But try an M4 x 0.7 tap instead

[Firewalker]

Jason, that's perfect!  I'll order a set tonight along with an m4x16 tap.

No problem!  But try an M4 x 0.7 tap instead

Will do!