Curious the need to fill the grain, most of my classic vintage gun have the grain visible, adds to feel and beauty of the wood. Total mirror gloss does not have as much character to me?
Quote from: RBQChicken on July 11, 2020, 08:15:32 PMWas the aluma-hyde hard to work with? Did you seal it somehow afterwards?Fantastic job!Thank you!The Aluma-Hyde was a bit of a pain to work with. I recommend purchasing spare tips (Brownells sells them, They should include spare tips with the rattle can!) When I do it again I'll change tips between coats whether it needs it or not. It clogged and spit out a several glops. I followed their 4 coat procedure they have on YouTube to a "T".They failed to mention it has a tendency to clog. I had to lightly sand it down with a scotch bright sanding pad to remove the splatter. I bought new tips and gave it 2 more light coats. I again lightly sanded it with "fine" Scotch brite padafter it cured. I used Brownells semi-gloss but it looked too shiny in my opinion. That's why (along with smoothing it out) I lightly sanded it. To bring back the luster a bit I used Johnson's PasteWax with 000 steel wool. There's a good video on the Tube about it. You can make it as shiny as you want with this method. In all honesty it looks better than the pictures I posted,and seems to be pretty durable, after cure.If you try this be sure to have your spare tips ready, shake well, and you can warm the can in hot water prior. Watch their video on the proven 4 step procedure. You can adjust the sheen or gloss as I described above. The cure time is for real, I'd wait 7 days before reassemble. I reviewed many finishes, GunKote, Cerakote, they both compared better, Aluma-Hyde II was no slouch though, it was cheaper and did not require baking. I didn't want to bake it because Ihad already resealed it.I will use it again, you just need to know what to expect.Rich
Was the aluma-hyde hard to work with? Did you seal it somehow afterwards?Fantastic job!
Whatever the effort spent and process used certainly hit the mark. The wood looks great.
Rich, the reasons you state are the exact reasons why I use Brownells Dura-Coat instead. It is a 2-part paint that requires an airbrush to apply, but dries rock hard in 24 hours, and the semi-gloss is a perfect match for Crosman 101's and looks good on Blue Streaks too.
Jeff I'm sure it's the way to go. In reality I should have finished the barrel and pump tube before I resealed, and I don't own an airbrush......yet
Quote from: Air Head on July 16, 2020, 10:17:31 PMJeff I'm sure it's the way to go. In reality I should have finished the barrel and pump tube before I resealed, and I don't own an airbrush......yet I have a nice dual action airbrush for artwork and a $10 single action Harbor Freight airbrush. 90% of the painting I do is single color so the cheap Harbor Freight special gets the most use by far. I've had it for many years and the only thing that it's needed is one o-ring. It's all you need to get started if you have an air compressor.
I agree it is a beautiful gun. You did a great job there.
Your Blue Streak came out nice! Was wondering how you like the peep site? I had ordered one and it came today finally.
BTW .....meant to congratulate you on this restoration effort ! I liked the refinish on the barrel and tube as well. The 1963 CBW is my favorite Sheridan Streak , for me it has all the best features and materials of the 50's and 60's rolled into one , Im particularly partial to the partridge front sight and Williams peep on yours ! Combine that with the lovely American walnut and you have keeper . Cheers !
Quote from: lwhaples on August 01, 2020, 06:34:44 PMYour Blue Streak came out nice! Was wondering how you like the peep site? I had ordered one and it came today finally.Thank you,I really do like it. Easy to sight in, streamline, and fast acquisition of a target.Rich
Fantastic job Rich, Your research and devotion paid off!!
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