I HAVE A IDEA!

[enazle]

Roger, will these two fittings fit in the space available?
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[enazle]

Roger here is  picture of a bushing found on Amazon

[RogerB]

Enazle,

Sorry my pictures didn't come through.  I'll try again here.

Roger

Photos not showing up on preview.  What should I do after choosing the files?

Roger

[RogerB]

Enazle,

The links in your 10:23:11 am post don’t work for me so I my comments are about the adapter pictured in your 11:27:21 am post.

The adapter you found here would not fit directly into the intake port on my YH.  Look at my picture.  You have an M12 bored out bolt threaded into the intake port, then a jam nut for stability, then an M12 coupling nut, next a fitting just like you found except the female thread is ¼” NPT rather than 1/8” npt, and finally I have the ¼” NPT quick disconnect.  You could do the same thing except use your 1/8” npt adapter and 1/8” NPT male foster type quick disconnect.

I am confident your adapter could not be screwed directly into the port on my YH.  The adapter that is screwed into the coupling nut on my machine is what I had when the YH arrived.  There was no way I could screw it into the port.  I had to come up with the rest of the stuff to make the connection.

I don’t know how consistent the orientation of components is on YHs.  You might buy one and it would work, but I very much doubt it.

Roger Barker
Middlefield, Ohio

[MJP]

Marco, which model Haskel booster did you use.  I haven’t seen anything less than $1000?

Its the AG-4 if I remember correctly. I sleeved the cylinder for smaller piston. There is an AA-8 at the ebay for cheap, it produces 2500psi stock but can be upgraded. I mainly use the valving and drive cylinder to make what I want. The high pressure side is simple.

Marko

[enazle]

Hey RogerB, the intake port is a 7/16-20 thread. Used in flare fittings of hydraulic lines. Found a couple different automotive gauge adapters that will work.  however, I went to Ace and bought a fitting I can bore and tap to an 1/8" NPT female.  I bought a 0-250 PSI in-line Palmer paintball regulator using 1/8" foster QC fittings will plug right into my Regulator on my 6000 PSI tank.  Regulator should be here early next week.

[RogerB]

Enazle,

Sounds great!  Wish I would have looked at the thread size more closely.  Here’s where I got the size info:

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/did-i-make-a-big-mistake-i-bought-a-yong-heng-compressor-from-china/page/9/

Please post a picture if possible.  I’d like to see what your connection looks like.

Roger

[Madd Hatter]

Has anyone tried to feed the high pressure side with the nitrogen by passing the low pressure piston output on the Yong hang?

[MJP]

The real question is why would someone bother?
You can use the air just as fine, just run it through a filter dryer and be happy.

Marko

[enazle]

Marko, the humidity here is always high. That and I like the use of nitrogen because of the low cost and convenience. The down side is returning a more than half empty tank isn't very efficient.

[enazle]

Here you go. It will have a quick connect on the other end.

[enazle]

I’ve got all the parts and pieces and my N2 tank is down to below 4000psi, so I will be trying out my YH as a booster this week.

[enazle]

For those of you with interest here is the setup I came up with. It's not perfect, it pops the disk at 4300psi and I might have to get Craig to modify the Stabilizer to be more reactive to the lower pressure range. On the plus side it works fast topping of a 30 min tank from 3600 psi to 4300 in about a minute.

[enazle]

It is working like a champ. I will create a new tread and detail all the parts and pieces.  I filled the tank pictured from 4000psi to 4500 psi in about 4 minutes.  It gets to 4200 - 4300 fast, but the last couple hundred takes a little longer.  It took less than 100 psi off the N2 tank to top off the target tank.

I called Craig Palmer and he recommends I set my Primary Reg to 1000psi or below so that the target psi is in the middle range of the Stabilizer. The stabilizer acts like a booster in reverse. It brings the pressure down in a ratio base on input. I don’t necessarily know the difference between a stabilizer and a regulator?  When I first contacted Palmer I explained what I was wanting to do and this device is what he recommended.

The key is to leave the low pressure bleed partially open.  So to get things going start the machine with both bleeds open. Open the target tank's pressure against the check valve in the male foster connected to the YH Filter.  Then introduce the N2, adjust the flow on the stabilizer where the motor starts to drag and back off a bit and air is still exiting the LP bleed. Then close the high pressure side and the pressure will build until the check valve in the foster connection to the target tank opens. When max pressure is reached open the high side bleed then turn the machine off, then shut off the N2.

What I learned is the target psi on the stabilizer is about 20 psi.  The burst disc are specked to be 1mm and they are more like .27mm. I had to double up the disc to keep it from popping the disc. One other small issue I have to overcome is the low pressure bleed screw vibrating loose since it isn’t tight. I’ll have to fig something up to make it snug in the fitting when left partially open.   I have a parts list created and will share with anyone is interested?