Throat reamers

[HunterWhite]

I want to re-cut the chamber / leade in my 25 caliber Condor, and probably the Marauder as well.
I have seen several threads recently with a bit of frustration with shooting slugs, choke, barrel dimensions and leade.

I tried to talk with Dave Kiff of Pacific tool and gauge,  but no contact.

I'm thinking a piloted reamer with spiral flutes.
The diameter of the pilot bearing would be ,243 or ,244.
The cutting flutes starting at ,243 and ending up at ,250.
I would like to have the ,250 diameter for ,300 or more.

The real problem with this is that I'm not a machinist, so I'm not sure exactly how to write the specification for the reamer.

If any of you have purchased a reamer, did they send you a drawing, with specifications?

[KnifeMaker]

Hunter, If you have a lathe, this is the way to go. If not, there are easier, and safer ways to go.


If you do want to use a lathe, what you want to order is a Lede ream. Available at Brownells gunsmithing supply, or Midwayusa. 


Do you have a Dremel or  Fordum Jeweler's  Tool? If so, it is an easy task. If not, they are avaliable at wally world for 19 bucks and do a fine job!


The proper rubber abrasives to do the job are also avaliable at Brownells.


If you elect to go the hand work, with a dremel type tool,
I will be more than happy to talk to you on the phone to guide you thru it. 


Mike

[HunterWhite]

Thank you Michael, I read your posts on this very subject and I considered the dremel tool with kratex points, but I'm pretty sure that I would mess up my barrel.
My brother has a lathe on his garage so I will be going that route.
I know that you have done this, as well as  Douglas (Dayotat100), Scott (Motorhead) and Bob (Cookie Monster) have done this, but I didn't catch the part number of the reamer. Bob Stern actually made his reamers. That was amazing. I would not be able to do that.
I'm thinking that if we identify a reamer for each caliber, then it should make it easier to standardize the slugs that we use.
I'm only interested in 25 cal right now.
Pacific tool and gauge skips over the 25 ACP size, so it's special order.
I can't even push the NSA slugs half way into the barrel, but the Condor still kicks them out at 1000 FPS!  I think that I will like it a lot better when I get the leade set up right.
I have the Athlon Argos on the Condor now, also recommend (influenced) by you Michael. Thanks for leading the way.

[KnifeMaker]

I would check with Brownells just in case.


Be careful of shooting bullets that do not fit flush with the bore. I blew a breach in my face doing it. I know Doug said it was safe, but it is  "not
 with a factory breach. It is pretty much the same as a barrel obstruction doing it.


Should you not be able to find a ream, all you have to do is select the bullet you want to shoot, properly sized for your bore.  Use a coarse stone to turn the rubber point against to trim it down in dia. to fit the breach perfectly.


 Lightly insert it into the breach and go slow. Check the fit of the bullet very often. VERY Often!  Use a Q-tip to remove grit. by coating  it with light oil before each bullet insertion trial. It will eventually fit like a cork with a firm press fit. If you should go a few thou. too deep, no real harm done. 


Done and done. If you wish to firelap, do so before final fitting of the bullet, as it will further lengthen the lede. 






I add the step whether reamed or not, of using a very fine rubber bullet shaped rubber abrasive, or a oak dowel rod with a fine slit in it to hold crocus cloth apx2000 grit to polish the lede in final. This has to be done when the bullet lacks only a few thou. being flush. This will give a very smooth loading. 

I am pretty much asleep while writing this. I hope it makes sense.

Mike

[KnifeMaker]

I just checked with Brownells. They take special orders. No idea of the cost.


The work is done by Clymer chamber reamers.


Mike

[kkarmical]

I just cut a 12mm LW barrel down to 16" and recrowned  it to go into my Talonp.

To open the lede, simply used dremel smallest tip I had, wrapped it with steel wool, and used permatex auto valve grinding course paste, then fine paste.  It took less than 2 mins honestly.

Ran bore cleaner through it, then patches until it was clean..

End results slugs fully seat no longer have to wear out my thumb making them seat.