Author Topic: Mid weight .22 mould (Read 3412 times))

Wayne52 · « **Reply #20 on:** September 23, 2018, 12:52:20 AM »

Don here's the basic dimensions of the mold from NOE http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?products_id=5432 , the head size isn't shown here because of the software NOE used on Bobs original dimensions doesn't show up on the software that NOE used for some reason but the head size is .217 which in the end result measures the same as a JSB 18.13 with calipers. I think the skirt diameters are the same as a JSB too.

In this thread I explain how I use the pressure pour method with an enclosed ladle. https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=148514.0 and also in this thread is a chrony test I used on the cast pellets.

For the particular mold in question I did have to bend the pin adjusters down ever so slightly to get the pins to fit tight so that there wasn't any flash. After the first run I had to tweek them again but now they're right on the money.

In Bobs original post about these pellets his diagrams show all the dimensions before the molds were even built. On paper the light pellets show they're at 24 grains but in reality using the pure lead like I do they're 23 grain. I haven't cast the other size ones yet but I will eventually.

Nvreloader · « **Reply #21 on:** September 23, 2018, 02:39:07 PM »

Thank you Wayne

I'll get the brass 4 cavity mold,

On the options section,
they have drill for probe? What is that?

I'll have to break out the casting stuff.......

Tia,
Don

Wayne52 · « **Reply #22 on:** September 23, 2018, 03:08:09 PM »

Don don't mark my word but I think that a drill for the optional temperature probe, Bob Sterne can tell you for sure.

rintafile · « **Reply #23 on:** September 23, 2018, 03:20:20 PM »

Yes it is for that purpose.

Sbak · « **Reply #24 on:** September 23, 2018, 03:47:54 PM »

Have you cast with a 4 cavity brass mold? If you haven't I'd suggest a 2 cavity brass or 4 cavity aluminum. 4 cavity brass will never keep temp up with that low of volume. Plus it'll wreck your arm in a long casting session, they are heavy as h*ll

Wayne52 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 23, 2018, 04:25:44 PM »

Shane I've cast a lot of them with my 4 cavity brass mold with great success but the last two brass molds I got are 2 cavity because it's easier adjusting 2 pins rather than 4. On my 2 cav 217-24-RF I had to bend both pin bars a little bit to get the pins fitting good. I was out shooting them today and everytime shooting them it amazes me how accurate cast pellets can be. I've got to hand it to Bob he knew what he was doing when he designed this pellet. I got three more squirrels with them today.

Wayne52 · « **Reply #26 on:** September 23, 2018, 04:37:27 PM »

With the brass molds a good cleaning is really all I do before casting with a new mold, I do use my Zippo lighter to smoke the pins when the pellets start sticking to them, the naptha in the Zippo lighter fluid give off a good smoke for something like this. I've cast probably 800 of them so far and I plan on doing a bunch more soon for winter cause I don't cast indoors. My Prod really likes them too. I'd be willing to bet they'd probably shoot good in an Mrod but mine isn't .22. My .25 Mrod shoots the 25 cal Magnum hunters pretty good but I think my DAR25 shoots them better, it's very accurate, I've gotten dime sized groups at 40 yards with them.

Nvreloader · « **Reply #27 on:** September 23, 2018, 07:29:00 PM »

Thanks Guys

Wayne

IYO,
which would be a better choice, 2 or 4 gang brass mold and is there anything else I need to order along with the mold?

It has 20 yrs, since I have done any casting with the 22 cal CF mold, 2 gang Lyman,
and the 357 4 gang mold, I would cast an average 1500/2000 bullets per month,
I was into steel plate shooting with my 357 Coonan pistols etc.

Does the 4 gang hold enough heat long enough with proper heat for the pure lead?

I'll have to cast enough for the QB/Gauntlet, as it gets TOO cold around here during the winter time, even in the shop,
av winter temps inside run 20-30* on a bright sunning day, lots of good insulation and NO heater/stove..

Thank you for all the help, and that includes all the others also.

Tia,
Don

Wayne52 · « **Reply #28 on:** September 23, 2018, 08:34:59 PM »

Don they both have their advantages, the 4 cavity will produce faster once you get all the pins adjusted good but it does wear on ya after a while, I'm very close to 66 right now and just ten or twenty years ago I could have molded a lot more at a time without any fatigue, I am 6'5" and weigh 220lbs so I'm no little guy but the age catch's up with ya. After having the 4 cavity I more prefer a 3 or 2 cavity because of how much lighter they are. I think with a 2 cavity you have more of an advantage when it comes to sorting too because even using the pour method that I do I'll still get some bad ones but not near as many. Today I recovered another pellet from a big fox squirrel I got from the state land and I'll post a pic of it.

I shot him straight on in the right side of his head, it went through his head, neck, clip his heart and slashed all his right rib cage in half then ended up just inside of the stomach membrane, I couldn't feel the pellet but I knew it had to be in there so I used my metal detecting probe to find it.

Nvreloader · « **Reply #29 on:** September 24, 2018, 12:37:19 AM »

Wayne

Thank you,
I think I am going to LIKE that pellet, it has very good expansion......

I am going to have to learn you pouring method,
I have always bottom poured, ever used a scoop before, guess I'll look one up etc.

Thanks again,

Don

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #30 on:** September 26, 2018, 04:59:21 PM »

Don, bottom vour works fine with a bottom pour pot. I use the RCBS lead furnace, and when pressure pouring, I simply lower the lead outlet amount and press the spru opening to the spout, and retract it enough to get a puddle on top.

Works very well with a two cavity mold.

Gets tiring with a 4 or 5 ganger.

Knife

Gut2Fish · « **Reply #31 on:** October 05, 2018, 09:43:24 PM »

Curious as to shrinkage of pellet. Is the mold designed to drop .217 head pellets or is that the mold size so they drop closer to .215? My gun likes a fat head pellet, 5.52 or 5.53 mm. If they drop 5.50-5.51 mm I may have to pass on this awesome mold.

Could someone please get a micrometer on the cast head size for me and let me know if your using pure lead or an alloy with that size?

Wayne52 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 06, 2018, 07:14:45 AM »

Garrett they're the same measurements as what a JSB 18.13 is, both head and skirt! That's with pure lead and probably about the same if I was using tin in the mix as well. This question has been answered by Bob S many times over, I've checked personally with 99.9% pure lead more than once for both 22 cal and 25 cal and they're always the same as what comparable JSB pellets are.

.217 inches = 5.5118 mm for the 22 cal pellets

Gut2Fish · « **Reply #33 on:** October 06, 2018, 08:16:10 AM »

Thanks for the confirmation Wayne, JSB shoots well from my gun, little tin should make it touch fatter.

I'll be gifting myself a 2 cavity brass for upcoming birthday present. I'll try to act surprised when I open it.

Hobbyman2007 · « **Reply #34 on:** October 06, 2018, 11:55:02 AM »

Quote from: Gut2Fish on October 06, 2018, 08:16:10 AM

Thanks for the confirmation Wayne, JSB shoots well from my gun, little tin should make it touch fatter.

I'll be gifting myself a 2 cavity brass for upcoming birthday present. I'll try to act surprised when I open it.

I’d spend the extra 20$ and get the 4 cavity. Makes a bigger pile of bullets in the same amount of time . Although in brass it would probably weigh quite a bit more .

Wayne52 · « **Reply #35 on:** October 06, 2018, 12:07:47 PM »

I think I'll get the 2 cavity from now on, there's that much less time getting the pins adjusted right. I do have a 4 cavity brass for the 250-27-RF however it takes much longer to get all the pins just right on it as well, once you get the pin adjustment bars bent right where you need them but it's not as much of a chore however after each use I take the mold apart for a thorough cleaning and then you have to reassemble it but at least all the bars don't need any tweeking if you put them in the same cavity you had them to begin with.

Gut2Fish · « **Reply #36 on:** October 06, 2018, 01:19:12 PM »

I wanted a gang mold but would have to be in aluminum for good a casting session. Large block double cavity steel tire me out. From the little I've cast I can tell aluminum would probably cool down too fast with my cadence and small cavities like this. Personally like steel and have never tried brass so think the two cavity brass is best fit for me. Brass is snazzy looking too, will be an awesome present to self.

Hobbyman2007 · « **Reply #37 on:** November 27, 2018, 06:51:11 PM »

T’is the season for spending money . I ordered http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=24_117. This should in theory stabilize in the 1:15 “ twist barrel in my Evanix . Also got the remaining sizing does I was missing in both .22 and .25/257” . Hope this one works as well as the 31gn BBT bullets .

PakProtector · « **Reply #38 on:** December 31, 2018, 10:19:37 AM »

Adding a few % of Tin to the mix will make the pellets just a wee bit bigger, and most importantly cast easier as the Tin makes the lead flow better.
cheers,
Douglas

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Mid weight .22 mould

Author Topic: Mid weight .22 mould (Read 3412 times))