Proper Oil for my RWS Springers?

[Wolverineshooter]

Any consensus what to use?

Moly also causing detonation. I have PFPE 106 not sure if that is any good

[splitbeing]

Depends who you ask. For what it's worth, my two cents on a consensus, is some folks use krytox after cleaning out all the so called dinosaur lubes and never go back. Others, myself included, use moly behind the piston seal and on the back lip of the piston, a bit of black tar on the spring.  Alot of folks buy from ARH but there are others.

[Wolverineshooter]

Depends who you ask. For what it's worth, my two cents on a consensus, is some folks use krytox after cleaning out all the so called dinosaur lubes and never go back. Others, myself included, use moly behind the piston seal and on the back lip of the piston, a bit of black tar on the spring.  Alot of folks buy from ARH but there are others.

Thanks. I guess if you open the gun that should work. For me if something can work without opening the gun that would be better

[splitbeing]

The oil you are talking about is similar to what I used through the transfer port.  I found galling years later.  When I found it, I immediately remembered a post by Motorhead stating this would happen. It did for me.

[HectorMedina]

Thanks. I guess if you open the gun that should work. For me if something can work without opening the gun that would be better

In the same way that a car uses one fluid for brakes, another for transmission, and yet another for the engine, it is not possible to use just ONE lubricant for the whole gun.
There are some lubes that CLAIM to be the solution to everything, just look for something called "Tune in a tube" or other words to that effect.
Does it work? Up to a point, yes.
Is it the best? Nope!

Go through this thread:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=191953.0

HTH, keep well and shoot straight!




HM

[DrGunner]

The oil you are talking about is similar to what I used through the transfer port.  I found galling years later.  When I found it, I immediately remembered a post by Motorhead stating this would happen. It did for me.

Where was the galling you’re describing?
What model Airgun? Did you take pics?
Post a thread on the problem & your fix?

Not doubting, just trying to understand and learn what to look for.


So- do you guys think the information put out on the web from companies like Pyramid Air are reliable? or are those guys totally clueless?

[Wolverineshooter]

Different companies have different opinions. Crosman tech told me never put anything in chamber and calling any others who say otherwise including famous YouTube's as fraud. RWS told me to put 3-4 drops of their oil every 1000 shots.

[DrGunner]

Different companies have different opinions. Crosman tech told me never put anything in chamber and calling any others who say otherwise including famous YouTube's as fraud. RWS told me to put 3-4 drops of their oil every 1000 shots.

Right? That’s where I’m confused.
RWS told me the same thing, in all of my Owners manuals and in paperwork that came back from warranty restoration of my 36 and 45, and I’ve been doing so for quite some time with no ill effects, using their silicone chamber lube. It has a needle to dispense precisely…
Pyramid Air has a YT vid posted 1 year ago from one of their TechNerdGurus, recommending 2 drops of the RWS Silicone lube into the chamber every 500-1000 shots. I actually wish I never would’ve come on here and asked this question, I should’ve just bought another bottle of the same stuff that I’ve always used and lived on blissfully ignorant, lol.

        I’ve come to really respect the advice of the knowledgeable people here at GTA, so now I am TORN between what the manufacturer has told me, which I’ve been doing for 40 years, versus what real experts with tons more experience are telling me.

Sigh 🙄

DrGunner

[Wolverineshooter]

Well, glad to hear you have had no ill effects after using the RWS chamber oil. I am more leaning toward  PFPE 106 because it will never dry. I hate to watch airgun dieseling with speed going down over time. I would rather to have slower but consistent speed.

I would continue to do what you have been doing

[DrGunner]

Well, glad to hear you have had no ill effects after using the RWS chamber oil. I am more leaning toward  PFPE 106 because it will never dry. I hate to watch airgun dieseling with speed going down over time. I would rather to have slower but consistent speed.

I would continue to do what you have been doing

Yes, I’ll continue with what has been working for all these years, although after reading about the newer products available from suggestions in this thread, I already ordered some Krytox PFPE 106.
I remember the first time I heard a true diesel round in my back yard, I was shocked!
My son had been shooting all day in the rain & my rifles were all pretty wet. I told him to wipe them dry thoroughly and then spray them down with the breeches closed, using Birchwood Casey barricade, then wipe off all of the Barricade thoroughly. I then showed him how to oil the pivot points and mainspring with spring cylinder oil, plus 2 drops of RWS chamber lube. He had been on an air rifle kick for an entire summer, and when I counted up the number of tins he’d gone through, each of the rifles had close to 1500 rounds through them without any maintenance. No big deal, I had gone 2000 rounds between oiling in the past with no effect. So I did the first Rifle – the model 36, to demonstrate. I left him working on the 45, ran to the store and came back. I told him we needed to fire a few rounds through each to make sure no oil got where it wasn’t supposed to be. The 36 fired normally- a little puff of mist with the first two shots, no smoke or loud report.
The first shot through the 45 was unbelievable! It literally sounded louder than a 22 Rimfire going off, with the report echoing across the valley below the hill that my house sits on. It dieseled for three  or four more shots, each one subsequently quieter than the last.
I’ll never know what he got in the chamber to cause such severe dieseling, but it was the last time I’ve ever used Birchwood Casey barricade on any air rifle.
That was the last time I let him do maintenance on the air rifles unsupervised, lol.

DrG

[Wolverineshooter]

Probably not your son's fault though

[Denby95]

As has been clear for some time in this thread now, there are multiple ways to approach the lubrication of your springer. The key is to understand what is going on where, what the lubrication needs of a specific area are, and the properties of your lubricant to determine if they meet those needs, or if they might cause problems for those areas. Example problem: Lubricant reaching its ignition point in the presence of high heat and pressure.

So with that in mind, have a survey over what others have said in the endless threads on this topic.

https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=gateway+to+airguns%2C+how+to+lube+a+springer