Don't cut your receiver..... Drill a new hammer pin hole behind the existing one. Use a grinder/carbide bur to get through the surface hardening and a decent drill bit will do the rest.
Oh man, this is starting to go way beyond my pay grade and skill level.I'm going to look into it a bit more..... Do I need spacers like AA has in his kits ?wll
Will... Most of your posts seem to "start in the middle" and are therefore VERY hard to follow. What gun is this? We can't read your mind.
Why does the AA unit have spacers ?, so they are not needed ?wll
wll,The thin spacers (washers) in the kit go on the spring guide to add spring preload if you need it....you may not need them and are totally not necessary if you plan on going with an RVA. The large spacer you place behind the cocking block to prevent the block from moving back in the tube as you pull rearward on the bolt. With this set up you reset the trigger sear AND put load on the spring when you open the bolt. The stock setup resets the sear when you open the bolt and puts the load on the spring when you close the bolt.Compared to the valve mods you have done this one is a piece of cake. Toughest part is drilling the new hole in the bolt. The only reason you need to do this is to allow the bolt to open farther to allow room to load the pellet. As far as the rear spacer goes you could use a stack of pennies if you had no way to make a spacer. use a drop of super glue between each penny to hold it all together.Hope this helps.Brian
Quote from: wll on March 19, 2016, 11:18:24 PMWhy does the AA unit have spacers ?, so they are not needed ?wllThis is what I am talking about. You apparently do not have a good understanding of how the QB works. Once you get an understanding of how the cocking mechanism works you will see what the "spacer" does. If you look at the diagram I posted you will see a "spacer" (made from a co2 cart) between the cocking block and the tube end plug. Picture a hole drilled and tapped into the end plug. Not screw a long bolt into that tapped hole (and into the tube). Once it gets far enough into the tube to hit the cocking block it will have taken up the space occupied by the "spacer" and the "spacer" will no longer be needed.Again - (IMHO) until you have an understanding of how the gun works you should NOT be modifying it.
Quote from: Gipper on March 19, 2016, 11:37:50 PMwll,The thin spacers (washers) in the kit go on the spring guide to add spring preload if you need it....you may not need them and are totally not necessary if you plan on going with an RVA. The large spacer you place behind the cocking block to prevent the block from moving back in the tube as you pull rearward on the bolt. With this set up you reset the trigger sear AND put load on the spring when you open the bolt. The stock setup resets the sear when you open the bolt and puts the load on the spring when you close the bolt.Compared to the valve mods you have done this one is a piece of cake. Toughest part is drilling the new hole in the bolt. The only reason you need to do this is to allow the bolt to open farther to allow room to load the pellet. As far as the rear spacer goes you could use a stack of pennies if you had no way to make a spacer. use a drop of super glue between each penny to hold it all together.Hope this helps.BrianYou mean hammer, not bolt.....right?
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