RWS 34 piston

[staggerlee]

Hi, I have an RWS 34 I love the gun. it shoots great, but I feel it can shoot better.I Buttoned the piston already and it made a huge improvement but I feel a new piston with a perfect fit would be best, I was wondering if anybody makes custom pistons or is there  better aftermarket piston I can buy?

 Thanks
 

[Roadworthy]

I can't answer the custom piston question.  I can tell you that the piston you purchase will be dictated by your trigger assembly.  The T01, T05, and T06 each use a different piston due to how they latch.  They don't interchange.  If you elect to change piston types you must get the trigger assembly which works with that piston.

RWS - Umarex is probably the only source for the T06 piston at this point.  They will also have the older pistons.  Most of the Chinese clones use a T05 trigger.  They could be an option if that's what you have.

Chambers in England carries many parts as well.

As far as a custom piston - I have no idea.  I have never thought about replacing the piston in my Diana 34.  "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

[Methuselah]

Hi, I have an RWS 34 I love the gun. it shoots great, but I feel it can shoot better.I Buttoned the piston already and it made a huge improvement but I feel a new piston with a perfect fit would be best, I was wondering if anybody makes custom pistons or is there  better aftermarket piston I can buy?

 Thanks
 

Just curious, how did you determine and set the clearance?  My dial bore gage doesn't go that small and snap gages don't go deep enough...  (I suppose feeler gage could get close, but then again, honing past the slots means the diameter isn't the same and again - can't reach that far  )

[anuthabubba]

Piston seal centers and seals the front of the piston and the 'buttons' center the skirt. That's about as good as piston 'fit' gets. Can easily adjust the piston weight and spring spacing and/or get an aftermarket spring/kit to see if that works 'better' somehow.

[Methuselah]

Piston seal centers and seals the front of the piston and the 'buttons' center the skirt. That's about as good as piston 'fit' gets. Can easily adjust the piston weight and spring spacing and/or get an aftermarket spring/kit to see if that works 'better' somehow.

What I mean is drill 3 holes in the piston, stick a button in each too tall to get the piston back in - file or shave off some of the buttons on a lathe until it fits.  How much do i remove, what clearance am I shooting for, how do you measure clearance when it's 15" down the receiver tube?

[Gear_Junkie]

Piston seal centers and seals the front of the piston and the 'buttons' center the skirt. That's about as good as piston 'fit' gets. Can easily adjust the piston weight and spring spacing and/or get an aftermarket spring/kit to see if that works 'better' somehow.

What I mean is drill 3 holes in the piston, stick a button in each too tall to get the piston back in - file or shave off some of the buttons on a lathe until it fits.  How much do i remove, what clearance am I shooting for, how do you measure clearance when it's 15" down the receiver tube?

You hacksaw the tube in half at the middle of the piston stroke, measure the I.D. of the chamber, and super glue it back together.  Piece of cake!   

[Methuselah]

Piston seal centers and seals the front of the piston and the 'buttons' center the skirt. That's about as good as piston 'fit' gets. Can easily adjust the piston weight and spring spacing and/or get an aftermarket spring/kit to see if that works 'better' somehow.

What I mean is drill 3 holes in the piston, stick a button in each too tall to get the piston back in - file or shave off some of the buttons on a lathe until it fits.  How much do i remove, what clearance am I shooting for, how do you measure clearance when it's 15" down the receiver tube?

You hacksaw the tube in half at the middle of the piston stroke, measure the I.D. of the chamber, and super glue it back together.  Piece of cake!   

Guess I deserved that, but I meant no disrespect to Terry I assure you!

Yes, I'm trying too hard first tune and all - and yes it doesn't have to be measured, not that I could if I wanted to.  Heck, I'm betting nobody does ... even with a Sunnen cylinder hone, the boring bar gets set and the receiver is known true - so you don't need a bore measurement because you just assigned it one.

Sorry Terry, my bad.  Guess I'm just nervous to get it as right as I can 

[Roadworthy]

Zack's post wasn't very helpful, even if taken seriously.  If you cut the tube with a hacksaw you would lose a kerf the width of the hacksaw blade and in the process change the diameter of the tube and take it out of round at the same time.

[anuthabubba]

Sorry Terry, my bad.  Guess I'm just nervous to get it as right as I can 
[/quote]

No apology needed, Steve. My post was a reply to 34shooter's. Surely there are instruments to measure deep bore concentricity, I just use the 'check the fit and refit' method, with some internal prep and decent lube. Any halfway decent buttoning job will be smoother than no buttons. IMO a good deburr/lube/kitting is sufficient.

And on 34s, the breech/lead taper is a bigger concern.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=deburring+tool

[Methuselah]

Sorry Terry, my bad.  Guess I'm just nervous to get it as right as I can 

No apology needed, Steve. My post was a reply to 34shooter's. Surely there are instruments to measure deep bore concentricity, I just use the 'check the fit and refit' method, with some internal prep and decent lube. Any halfway decent buttoning job will be smoother than no buttons. IMO a good deburr/lube/kitting is sufficient.

And on 34s, the breech/lead taper is a bigger concern.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=deburring+tool

Thanks Terry!

I'm just hoping to get it right the first time.  I did use the tool in the link (from my plumbing box, used on copper pipe), it did help and then touched up with a half-round needle file.

LOL!  Spell checker offered "girlfriend" for "half-round" 

[Springrrrr]

If I read this correctly, you guy are trying to get the diameter of a piston tube but don't have the ability to get in far enough to do so.  If that is true.

How about this?

Get a washer with a relatively small hole in the middle, with an outer diameter that is slightly larger than the tube.  Turn a wooden dowel to fit the hole so the washer has to be hard pushed on to it.

Chock the dowel in a drill and spin the drill against a spinning grinding wheel on a bench grinder.  You will be surprised how evenly it takes the washer down if you go slow and keep an even pressure on things.

Take it down in thousandths at a time and when you get close, test fit it in the tube.  At some point it will go in and because you went SLOW, it could be a very close fit.

At that point measure the diameter of the washer for a real close indication of the piston tube.  Work the piston from there.

Or use the file and test method on the buttons for a darn close fit too.  Less work and probably just as good.

[LAalex]

V Mach kits contain a piston.  Kit costs about $100 more than the gun though.

http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/VMach.html

Scotty

Edit: my bad--the kit for the 34 doesn't have a piston.

[Gear_Junkie]

Guess I deserved that, but I meant no disrespect to Terry I assure you!

Steve,

I was totally joking - I meant no disrespect.  Sorry about that!

Honestly, I question the value of spending this much time (and $) trying to perfect the cylinder of an RWS 34.  I'm just not sure this gun is worth it - Especially considering the manufacturing tolerances that I've seen with various RWS parts.  (And you know at least as well as I do how lousy Umarex is to deal with in getting parts!) Not to mention, the shape of the cylinder interior could vary along it's length.  And since the piston doesn't rotate, there has to be some slop involved to avoid binding.

Trust me,  I love my 34, too, and spent a bit on some upgrades for it.  But I think it would cost quite a pretty penny to get the exactness that you are aiming for.  What would be ideal is if someone could manufacture an RWS 34 piston in the style of the LGV piston, with the delrin guides.  THIS would be the bomb!

[Methuselah]

Springrrr,  love it!

Gear_Junkie, Yrok's point was don't overthink it which is exactly what I did (twice).  Mine's a Hatsan 125 but buttoning is buttoning, right?  As you said, but even cheaper ... Point taken

Thanks both!
Sorry if hijacking thread

[Otterchaos]

I'm too much of a newbie to post outside links but google telescoping gauge as that would give you the ability to measure the inside of a piston tube.

[Oxygun]

Hi, I have an RWS 34 I love the gun. it shoots great, but I feel it can shoot better.I Buttoned the piston already and it made a huge improvement but I feel a new piston with a perfect fit would be best, I was wondering if anybody makes custom pistons or is there  better aftermarket piston I can buy?

 Thanks
 

Hi , i have the same rifle (a Panther 31 which a 34 with synthetic stock..the point is I don't know for the piston but you can improve your performances and strenght of the rifle with a Titanium spring coated with teflon (hi tech stuff)..not only it increases the power but improves by far the whole loading-cocking process....furthermore you can leave it for hours and days in a cocked position (ideal for hunting and plinking) with no harm done...

cheers

S.

[Gear_Junkie]

Hi, I have an RWS 34 I love the gun. it shoots great, but I feel it can shoot better.I Buttoned the piston already and it made a huge improvement but I feel a new piston with a perfect fit would be best, I was wondering if anybody makes custom pistons or is there  better aftermarket piston I can buy?

 Thanks
 

Hi , i have the same rifle (a Panther 31 which a 34 with synthetic stock..the point is I don't know for the piston but you can improve your performances and strenght of the rifle with a Tiatanium spring coated with teflon (hi tech stuff)..not only it increases the power but improves by far the whole loading-cocking process....furthermore you can leave it for hours and days in a cocked position (ideal for hunting and plinking) with no harm done...

cheers

S.

Have you installed one of these in your 34?  If so, do you have any pictures of the spring?  The only thing I might worry about is the Teflon slowly flaking off.

[phoebeisis]

Here is a cut from a Titan Spring seller on ebay-
Swedish steal was once  a  big bragging point for Safe makers-

The Titan XS is a round section mainspring made from the highest quality Swedish Grade One Vanadium Spring Steel

Each Titan XS spring is hand wound to exact specification, then heat treated and tempered to ensure ultimate performance and maximum durability. During the final tempering stage, they are coated with a specially formulated finish, a derivative of PTFE and Teflon that is hard yet flexible. Self-lubricating multiislip properties eliminates the need for conventional spring lubrication, however grease application is still recommended. The almost friction free operation of the Titan XS Mainspring reduces the possibilities of dieseling to a minimum. Maximum power is maintained for longer than most other springs.

Titan XS Mainsprings do not lose power when left cocked for long periods.

[anuthabubba]

The Spring Man is @ ARH!!!!!!

[Oxygun]

Hi, I have an RWS 34 I love the gun. it shoots great, but I feel it can shoot better.I Buttoned the piston already and it made a huge improvement but I feel a new piston with a perfect fit would be best, I was wondering if anybody makes custom pistons or is there  better aftermarket piston I can buy?

 Thanks
 

Hi , i have the same rifle (a Panther 31 which a 34 with synthetic stock..the point is I don't know for the piston but you can improve your performances and strenght of the rifle with a Tiatanium spring coated with teflon (hi tech stuff)..not only it increases the power but improves by far the whole loading-cocking process....furthermore you can leave it for hours and days in a cocked position (ideal for hunting and plinking) with no harm done...

cheers

S.

Have you installed one of these in your 34?  If so, do you have any pictures of the spring?  The only thing I might worry about is the Teflon slowly flaking off.

Sorry mate no pictures, at that time I was too much in a rush to get the Titaniun spring installed by a friend who's a gunsmith in the gunshop where I bought almost all the weapons but the guy is also an afficionado de Diana rifles, pistols, amblems, old propaganda of Diana so I am not a good mecanic but he is so, I gave him all and he threw the boxing I guess, but I have to tell you two things regarding your comments.

1) It REALLY  WORKS LIKE A CHARM, the whole cocking cycle is made to function in a more user friendly manner and more "softly"..the gain in power (not to the detriment of the precision, on the contrary) is obvious and can be seen at the point of impact of your usual pellet absorber or at whatever what you shot at before, in a it gave me 5 Jto 8J more by gun roughly, installed it very soon after acquiring the rifle but for a Diana 34 , it passes from 20J of "exportfeder" to 24....and you can feel it shooting..

The teflon is in perfect harmony, after almost years , like three month ago I took the rifle to the gun shop to change all joints, get it lubricated a bit and he stripped it with me in his little workshop and the spring is as it was when I first bought it...guess that's why it don't com cheap lol but it s worth every penny....

If you want can try to find you the real thing online


cheers