Ruger airhawk...heavy ratcheting noise when cocking...

[Paul68]

How heavy depends on the gun. Most of my rifles are magnums and with a tune could stand a little heavier piston assembly after tuning to help move heavier pellets. Just adding wieght with a heavier tophat, washers or slugs, isnt an instant recipe for more power. Oftentimes, a LITTLE more weight is ok and will let your gun handle heavier pellets more effectively.

The problem is the need to balance everything correctly. Too heavy a piston assembly and you can lose power and possibly damage a spring or seal, at the very least you'll increase recoil and produce a harsher shot cycle. Heavier pellets help to compensate for the increased momentum of the heavier piston and make better use of the higher pressures created by the heavier piston/pellet combination.
 
If I go to a stronger spring, I almost always add a little weight to the piston, but I also move up to heavier pellets as well. If things get too harsh or violent, I reduce weight till it smooths out to an acceptable level.

For a stock Ruger with stock spring, I'd go with a lighter tophat, which is why I used one made from Delrin from Mike Melick. When I upgrade it to a stronger spring, I'll probably make one out of steel and then stick with 10 grain pellets.

Oh, and do not try making anything you'll add to your powerplant out of "hard rubber". It will not have the durability to withstand the abuse, might increase friction in a bad way, and can often be broken down over time when in contact with lubricants.

[FerrumB5]

Thanks, Paul! A very clear answer.

[pappa]

Just a reminder for those who are installing their first tophat; Because you are adding the full length of the tophat to the spring chamber, you need to cut the end off of the long rear spring guide by the full length of the tophat. If this is not done, the rear guide will collide with the tophat and the rifle will NOT cock. It also helps greatly to the smoothness of the cocking cycle to re-taper the cut off end of the spring guide.

Also, don't forget to put a well fitted steel washer between the tophat and spring. Without the washer, the spring will chew through the base of the tophat in a big hurry.

[Paul68]

Just a reminder for those who are installing their first tophat; Because you are adding the full length of the tophat to the spring chamber, you need to cut the end off of the long rear spring guide by the full length of the tophat. If this is not done, the rear guide will collide with the tophat and the rifle will NOT cock. It also helps greatly to the smoothness of the cocking cycle to re-taper the cut off end of the spring guide.

Also, don't forget to put a well fitted steel washer between the tophat and spring. Without the washer, the spring will chew through the base of the tophat in a big hurry.

I haven't had to shorten any rear spring guides on the guns I've added tophats to Pappa. If you calcuate compressed spring length then compare the total length of the rear guide and tophat, its easy to see how much you can get away with. 

[pappa]

Just a reminder for those who are installing their first tophat; Because you are adding the full length of the tophat to the spring chamber, you need to cut the end off of the long rear spring guide by the full length of the tophat. If this is not done, the rear guide will collide with the tophat and the rifle will NOT cock. It also helps greatly to the smoothness of the cocking cycle to re-taper the cut off end of the spring guide.

Also, don't forget to put a well fitted steel washer between the tophat and spring. Without the washer, the spring will chew through the base of the tophat in a big hurry.

I haven't had to shorten any rear spring guides on the guns I've added tophats to Pappa. If you calcuate compressed spring length then compare the total length of the rear guide and tophat, its easy to see how much you can get away with. 

You have been darn lucky, my friend. The very first tophat I installed in a Blackhawk, it would NOT cock after I buttoned it up. Mike Melick told me about shortening the rear guide and I have never had another problem since. In any case, I think that it is good insurance to shorten it and it really can't hurt. What it amounts to in adding a tophat is that you are adding the length of the tophat which was not there before to the internal spring compression length which is alien to the design of that area.

I have done 6 tophat additions to Blackhawks now and they have all performed extremely well.

[Paul68]

Just a reminder for those who are installing their first tophat; Because you are adding the full length of the tophat to the spring chamber, you need to cut the end off of the long rear spring guide by the full length of the tophat. If this is not done, the rear guide will collide with the tophat and the rifle will NOT cock. It also helps greatly to the smoothness of the cocking cycle to re-taper the cut off end of the spring guide.

Also, don't forget to put a well fitted steel washer between the tophat and spring. Without the washer, the spring will chew through the base of the tophat in a big hurry.

I haven't had to shorten any rear spring guides on the guns I've added tophats to Pappa. If you calcuate compressed spring length then compare the total length of the rear guide and tophat, its easy to see how much you can get away with. 

You have been darn lucky, my friend. The very first tophat I installed in a Blackhawk, it would NOT cock after I buttoned it up. Mike Melick told me about shortening the rear guide and I have never had another problem since. In any case, I think that it is good insurance to shorten it and it really can't hurt. What it amounts to in adding a tophat is that you are adding the length of the tophat which was not there before to the internal spring compression length which is alien to the design of that area.

I have done 6 tophat additions to Blackhawks now and they have all performed extremely well.

I agree, the tophat is a great addition to these guns. Really help wake em up and quiet em down. Mine may be an abberation, and my other guns I check compressed height before making the tophats. Thanks.

[FerrumB5]

I took mine apart today - was impressed how easily this can be done with a compressor (will post step-by-step instructions on building one tomorrow or Monday). I didn't install the tophat - just fixed the dented sleeve for now.

[makenzie71]

Sorted out my noise.  Compression tube...I'll call it that for a lack of a proper name at this time...had a dent in it.  Not sure how it got there but the coils were "jumping" over it.  Straightened it out by hammering a socket into the sleeve and dolly'ing it smooth again.  did a light polish on the guns and trigger while it was all apart, reassembled, and bang bang bang.  1/4" pattern at 30 yards.







Final product (being inspected by little miss Makenzie71 Jr.):

[thekid]

That would be the piston sleeve, looks as if the cocking arm has been digging into it.
Somehow, the cocking arm is not staying straight and forcing the piston back.
Something is wrong there, might happen again, but now you know how to fix it.

[makenzie71]

It was right under where the arm goes in...so, I'm thinking that it was dinged during assembly or disassembly.  The guy mailed it to me apart to save dimensions, and I put it together.  The sleeve is pretty soft so it wouldn't take much effort to dent it without knowing.  I'm sure that's what happened.

[makenzie71]

...though, I will be watching it (or, more so, I'll have the new owner watch it...it's going to my brother).