Reliable Scope for a new Marauder

[Gremcat]

So I have a Marauder in .22 with a Bushnell Elite 4200 8-32x40 AO. The scope is at Bushnell because I bought it used and it made me nervous so I sent it in. I have been offered a Leupold EFR 6.5-20 for 450 bucks and it is Like New so it is a steal. The big question I have always been a euro optics guy so American and further air rifle scopes are new and somewhat scarey to me. Paying under 5-600 for a scope makes me worry about it's reliability. I am having built/building a 30 cal custom and was thinking of putting this Leupold on it. Will I be at a disadvantage at Long range say 75 yards and beyond without a SF with a 6" wheel? I am new but hate to worry about reliability and I have heard the name Hawke a lot but I am the tried and true type. I know Vortex has been getting a good rep on Powder Burners but just can't bring myself to look at them. In fact the last two scopes I bought where both German Kahles scopes for powder burners. Not cheap but amazing optics and the next PB scope will probably be a Zeiss 1.5-6x42 Victory. I would have bought it instead of the Kahles in the same range but they where coming out with the new line so I held off. Thanks for helping out a new guy.

[Bwalton]

I did a review on the Weaver Kaspa you might want to take a look at it... The best for the money in my thoughts
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=63155.msg605553#msg605553

[Gremcat]

The other thing I am struggling with is all this talk of veeing the scope or mirroring it. I have a friend that shoots a thousand yards for Team USA and when I probed him about mounting a scope he said " I lay it in the rings and tighten with an allen wrench" now given he is using a Kelby action, Seekins rings and a Nightforce so all quality but I have never done any of these things with my scopes. The most I would think of doing besides using a torque wrench and alcohol to degrease is to make a small mark on the rings where I had the scope aligned and crank up 10-15 MOA and make sure it is a straight line. If it shifts you loosen and twist slightly to align and of course the box test to verify the scope is repeatable. I will use a witness mark and a few other tricks to make sure nothing comes loose but I really don't get all these other tricks. I could see shimming or using a canted rail to allow for more upward adjustment because they say scopes track better if they aren't on the edge of their adjustment but if I had a scope even at the edge of adjustment that didn't track it would go back. Maybe I am misunderstanding something but I have tend to listen to these guys.