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Diana Airguns
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RWS 34 question.
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Topic: RWS 34 question. (Read 3410 times))
Mryan21
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RWS 34 question.
«
on:
January 20, 2012, 02:06:05 AM »
Today when i was shooting, a pellet failed to make it out of the end of the barrel. Smoke and fumes poured out from between the barrel and reciever, and the pellet was still stuck in the very tip of the barrel. I think i may have failed to close the barrel up solidly because the gun is just as powerful as it was. However there is now oil all over eveything. Every time i shoot there seems to be more oil. Is it normal for something like that to happen. The gun seems to be shoot fine. I used a tissue to check the seal, and it looks good. Accuracy seems to have suffered some. Is it just because of the oil that was blown out of the breech? Right now i don't have the moeny to buy the tools to take the gun apart. If i shoot the gun alot, will the oil burn out.? This gun was shooting into a quarter at 35 yards. Now the groups have opened up. Thanks Matt.
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Mark 611
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 8311
Yoda!!!!!!!!!!!
Real Name: Mark
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #1 on:
January 20, 2012, 02:30:40 AM »
wow that is unusual, I'd dare to say 99% of all Diana's are dry as a bone inside but they do put a little lube on the piston seal probably for assembly purpose but the oil will burn off but it my also burn up your piston seal!
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Indiana
In the words of my friend OC Bolding he told me if ur gonna Dance with DEVIL you got to wear the shoes!!!!! How true this is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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When good men are silent only evil is heard!
Let he who is without SIN cast the first stone!
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s10gto
Expert
Posts: 1747
Real Name: Dustin
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #2 on:
January 20, 2012, 08:43:00 AM »
Strange ,but it should settle down. I have taken down many RWS's and found the seal nicked from the factory. If it don't stop the seal could be damaged. I got seals if you need one. Dustin
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VAFarmer
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 874
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #3 on:
January 20, 2012, 09:07:31 AM »
Smoke poured from between the barrel and the comp tube?
Sounds like a breech seal to me....especially if it's coming from between these two areas and the detent is locked up.
If you didn't get it closed all the way, that would most certainly be visible.
That can result in piston slam, which is not good repeatedly, but shouldn't hurt you once or twice.
Your breech seal may be shot....or need to be shimmed. Wipe all the oil off, and get that area dry. Cock and load, and make sure the detent closes all the way. Take a powder (good ole self risin' flour works good) and sprinkle it around that area. Get ready to Fire the gun as normal, but once you get your sight picture, hold on your target, but look at the joint there. If there is a seal issue, the stuff will blow up off of there.....you might get some wisp of material from the recoil, but if the breech is bad, you'll know the difference.
Did the stuck pellet push on out the front easily?
If the breech is good, and pellets are consistant, and it continues, then I'd check the piston seal. Oil may be seeping by on the cocking stroke.
God bless,
Farmer
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Mryan21
Guest
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #4 on:
January 20, 2012, 09:31:25 AM »
Thanks for the input guys. To answer your question, the pellet didn't push out easily at all. And from the looks of it, i may have crimped the pellet skirt when i closed the barrel. The skirt was very deformed when i removed the pellet. I shot it about a hundred times yesterday and the oil seems to have stopped. Hopefully all will be good. Both of my rws need a tune up bad.
Matt
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Nathan
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 2248
Real Name: Nathan
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #5 on:
January 20, 2012, 10:43:44 AM »
"Right now i don't have the moeny to buy the tools to take the gun apart."
A spring compressor can be made pretty cheaply (there are some pictures of how people use inexpensive bar/pipe clamps to take apart guns for example ) and you only need some basic tools (screwdrivers etc) that you may already own. The Diana 34 is pretty easy to tune and there are some tutorials(w/pictures)(I have a PDF version) out there. A replacement seal from J Macarri will set you back about $20 including postage. Maccari sells the proper lubes too. Avoid the temptation to use a automotive type grease from Autozone or such, as they're not really designed for spring air rifles. There are kits available (Maccari and Vortek) but they can get pricey. Even if you reuse the factory spring and guides, cleaning, deburring and lubing with proper lubes will do wonders for your rifle. Plus you'll get the satisfaction of doing it for yourself and being able to see and feel the improvements you made. If you do decide to tackle the job yourself, there are plenty of guys/gals here who've "been there, done that" and can help you out if you feel stuck or unsure with your work.
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/4169286.htm
Probably enough lubes to do 5 guns or more
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/43075.htm
Nathan
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Evans, Colorado
Mark 611
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 8311
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Real Name: Mark
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #6 on:
January 20, 2012, 10:53:44 AM »
I think these seals are better JMO, you don't need to size them like the JM seals!
http://www.blueline-studios.com/kuengairguns.com/talk.html#sealreplacement
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Indiana
In the words of my friend OC Bolding he told me if ur gonna Dance with DEVIL you got to wear the shoes!!!!! How true this is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
54 JUNKYARD AIRGUNS FORUM MEMBER!!!!!
When good men are silent only evil is heard!
Let he who is without SIN cast the first stone!
Beeman R1 carbine .20cal X2
HW95 .22cal
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RedFeather
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 4741
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #7 on:
January 20, 2012, 03:09:48 PM »
A little more info, please. Did you happen to get a bottle of spring oil or chamber oil (lube) along with your gun? If so, did you put any into the gun? That would be one or two spare drops of lube into the chamber and a few drops of oil on the spring? You didn't, by any chance, put spring oil into the gun through the transfer port hole where the air comes out? If so, that would certainly cause the gun to severely diesel, producing the effect you describe.
If the gun is used, I would suspect that someone lathered it internally with spring oil or some other petroleum-based lube. Petroleum products are no-no's in spring air rifles, since the fumes are highly combustible. When your gun's piston compresses the air, all of the latent heat in that volume is concentrated to the point where it will briefly flash off any fumes. This is normal and regular spring tars (greases) give off just enough vapor to help add a little energy. Oils, on the other hand, provide too much and can easily migrate into the compression end of the gun.
Diana's have been coming pretty bone dry from the factory for a while now. I do hope that they are not starting to go the other way. But, as said, we really need more information in order to diagnose this for you.
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Mryan21
Guest
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #8 on:
January 20, 2012, 08:34:56 PM »
The gun is brand new from pyramyd. I have not lubed it at all yet. I'm going to order the lubes and a few new seals asap from ARH. My MPC needs to be lubed also. The good news though, is the gun is back to shooting into a quarter at 30 yards with kodiaks. Seems to have calmed down. I spent all day shooting and the flyers seem to have disappeared. No more smoke pouring out the end of the barrel. Thanks for all the help guys. I found out today my grandfather has all the tools i need to work on the gun. Along with the stuff to make a spring compressor. I had another question for you guys. Is it ok to shoot kodiaks out of this gun. I hear heavy pellets are hard on the spring. But the gun likes kodiaks and kodiak hps the best out of all the pellets i've tryed. Is it okay to shoot them. And this is a hunting rifle, will leaving the rifle cocked for no more than an hour harm it? Thanks Matt
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Mark 611
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 8311
Yoda!!!!!!!!!!!
Real Name: Mark
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #9 on:
January 20, 2012, 08:44:34 PM »
shoot em! and no it won't JMHO
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Indiana
In the words of my friend OC Bolding he told me if ur gonna Dance with DEVIL you got to wear the shoes!!!!! How true this is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
54 JUNKYARD AIRGUNS FORUM MEMBER!!!!!
When good men are silent only evil is heard!
Let he who is without SIN cast the first stone!
Beeman R1 carbine .20cal X2
HW95 .22cal
HW50 .20cal X2
HW50 .22cal
HW35 .177cal
U.K. Webley Tomahawk .22cal
Diana T06 460mag .22cal
Cometa Fenix 400 compact.22cal
Mryan21
Guest
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #10 on:
January 20, 2012, 09:50:02 PM »
Thanks sir
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RedFeather
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 4741
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #11 on:
January 20, 2012, 10:36:14 PM »
Sounds like some idjit at PA or Diana oiled the patootie out of it. It should not have spewed liquid. I've seen some guns over-oiled on the pivots, usually from guys wiping them down too much with an oily rag - not recommended for springers, BTW. (Heck, or anything else for that matter.) In re-reading your post, it is normal to have a wisp of smoke curling out of the barrel after a shot, particularly at the breech. Lots of smoke, though, is not. Glad your gun is back to shooting as she should.
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Onebaddj
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 4560
DJ
Re: RWS 34 question.
«
Reply #12 on:
January 20, 2012, 11:33:52 PM »
Leaving it cocked for an hour wont hurt. My daughter left one of mine cocked when she put it away. It was cocked for 2 weeks. Still shoots great. Thats a testament for mr maccari's springs.
Also for a spring compressor they are cheap and you could cruise rhe local pawn shops or swap meet for a c clamp and parts. Should be able to build one for $5 if you find the parts there. Theres a strand in the airgun gate i think that has lost of examples of spring compressors and a couple links to even more. Lots of ideas here on how to build them. Other than a spring compressor all you need in a nail and a philips screw driver to get one apart. Philips screw driver for the stock screws and nail to push the trigger pins out.
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Trinity, Florida
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RWS 34 question.