1377 Valve Port Radial Position Relative to Tube

[Rackhan]

Attached Photo shows the radial position of the valve port, as found, when I was disassembling (first timer) my 1377 today. I should note, the tapped hole for the front frame screw was properly aligned with the hole in the tube when I took this photo. Photo was taken before anything was disturbed other than removing the breech, barrel, and the frame. Is this the correct position for that valve port?  From a radial perspective, the valve port is offset from the hole in the tube by about 2 or 3 degrees...which looks to me like the port is partially blocked. I'm trying to solve loss of power, so putting in a reseal kit...and there is some obvious hardening and extrusion on the orings I've inspected so I'm thinking thats' the primary malfunction, but I wanted to make sure this port is properly positioned, and if not, make sure it goes back right.  To my knowledge, though this is a Phase 2 model, this is the first time its ever been disassembled and resealed...I picked up from my father in law when he moved on a few years ago.

[Rackhan]

Update on this...when I took the valve apart the valve body oring was completely compressed, not visible at all as if it wasn't there, and I was able to unscrew the valve halves by hand...oil and all.  Found that odd as most of the youtubers load 'er up in a bench vise and put a tool on it.  I went ahead and went back together with it, with the reseal kit...with the new valve body seal I turned/torqued only enough to seat against the o-ring which permits me to  align the tapped hole to the tube/frame and align the transfer port directly under the hole in the tube...that said, there was easily another 1/2 turn that the valve could have easily torqued down but that would not permit the two holes to index to each other properly (what I believe is the right clock position for each hole--basically the tapped hole should be nearly 180 degrees out from the transfer port.  Now trying to put the valve back in the tube, the transfer port indexes perfectly to the hold in the tube but the tapped hole comes up short of the hole in the tube about a millimeter or two...can't get the machine screw in the tapped hole...it seems two blocked...won't go any more without massive force...

And that never goes well for me...

Think I'll pack it in for the night and see if anyone can help me out here. Didn't look this complicated when the youtubers did it...

[Psipumper]

You could file a small amount off the end of the valve if you are only lacking a small amount to be 180 degrees. I usually put a bolt in the threaded hole along with a drill bit shank in the other hole to tighten the halves together. Most will be slightly past 180 when completely tightened and require loosening slightly to eyeball them straight.
Final adjustment of the transfer port can be done after the valve is installed using a drill shank to rotate the transfer hole.
I haven’t had one the threaded hole didn’t line up with the tube before.

[Rackhan]

Yeah...that was the clue I think I needed...I went ahead and reefed on it with a couple of spanners like you described (I used #9 brass rivets out of my leather shop) and managed to get another full turn, which seems to bottom the two halves, but that's how I found it when I took it apart, so I guess that's how its supposed to go back together.  The "as found" misalignment and loose fit of the valve halves kind of threw me off as to how it was supposed to be and I didn't know what it was supposed to look like...I only knew what I thought it should look.  Poor condition of the o-rings and the misalignment of that transfer port, in the as found condition, pretty much explains the power loss. I'm baffled...sorta... as to how the transfer port got misaligned though.  I suppose it just loosened up and rotated with the constant smack of the hammer on the valve rod.