Decided to tune my 35 and found some slight galling on the piston skirt. Same print on the comp tube. Not enough to cause a huge concern,...definitely a fixable issue , but enough to warrant either a buttoning or a bearing insert. I did notice a bit of free play with the skirt and the id of the tube. Any thoughts or theories on your preferred method(s)? This is why I usually tune my springers shortly after i buy them. But I wanted to give this rifle a wearing in and I could tell this issue was apparent from time to time after long shooting sessions. Starts smooth then gradually got a tad metal to metal wearing. Not coarse or crunchy,...just not smooth as it should be.
The buttons always seem to fall off. The bearings, while a great idea, need a lathe and a serious head stock.-y
Agreeing with Hector here. Almost nothing to be gained in reality. I have fired like for like guns numerous times where one has been given the rear split ring treatment (the latest pref for rear bearing) but seeing/feeling no noticeable difference. The same with piston sleeving.I concluded the action of a piston flying from one end of a compression tube to another, is pretty much unaffected, provided the fit was not a disaster, but more the quality of the seal which distinguished the difference.Real gains can be had by correct guiding, for so many reasons, but I see sleeving and buttons/rings as chasing issues that are more imagined than reality...
Quote from: clarky on April 12, 2021, 04:18:19 PMAgreeing with Hector here. Almost nothing to be gained in reality. I have fired like for like guns numerous times where one has been given the rear split ring treatment (the latest pref for rear bearing) but seeing/feeling no noticeable difference. The same with piston sleeving.I concluded the action of a piston flying from one end of a compression tube to another, is pretty much unaffected, provided the fit was not a disaster, but more the quality of the seal which distinguished the difference.Real gains can be had by correct guiding, for so many reasons, but I see sleeving and buttons/rings as chasing issues that are more imagined than reality... Insee your point, but my guns issue is not that I am trying to keep the piston centrted when fired, but to keep anymore galling from taking place during the cocking stroke. I suppose I could polish the skirt and the tube as Ron suggested, and it would result in mucj of what I have with my other Weihrauch guns as well as my Dianas and Feinwerkbau’s. Appreciate y'alls input. tjkFair comment in regard the galling but i would have thought a good polish and the right lube would cure this.Correct lubes are turning out to be really important. What have you been using..
Decided to tune my 35 and found some slight galling on the piston skirt. Same print on the comp tube. Not enough to cause a huge concern,...definitely a fixable issue , but enough to warrant either a buttoning or a bearing insert. I did notice a bit of free play with the skirt and the id of the tube. Any thoughts or theories on your preferred method(s)?
Quote from: tjk on April 12, 2021, 12:19:39 PMDecided to tune my 35 and found some slight galling on the piston skirt. Same print on the comp tube. Not enough to cause a huge concern,...definitely a fixable issue , but enough to warrant either a buttoning or a bearing insert. I did notice a bit of free play with the skirt and the id of the tube. Any thoughts or theories on your preferred method(s)? Hey tjk,I button the pistons of all my Springers with ARH buttons - I think they're (6) for $6. These are glued on using his instructions, I usually hit the piston with some 220 carborundum paper so they adhere better. I tried using curved water bottle plastic made with a paper punch, but these detached upon further inspection. The ARH buttons don't come off once they've made it past the cocking slot.The only downside that I've seen from buttoning the piston, is you loose maybe 10/25 fps in velocity depending on their tightness in the receiver.I believe they give the shot cycle a smoother & sold feel/sound when firing. My DIY tunes usually cost me about $25 ... with the buttons costing $6 .
I understand chasing perfection, we tend to do it with a favourite gun and applaud your efforts...As another idea ...just throwing it into the pool...Has anyone heard of this new BAM coating. You spray it into a localised placed....I am thinking a piston wrapped in masking tape but the rear bearing left exposed and then this area sprayed with the BAM.It is apparently, ultra hard wearing, low in friction and bonds as if chrome plating........and there is another idea. Getting a few thou of chrome adding to the rear bearing...
Quote from: clarky on April 13, 2021, 04:16:46 AMI understand chasing perfection, we tend to do it with a favourite gun and applaud your efforts...As another idea ...just throwing it into the pool...Has anyone heard of this new BAM coating. You spray it into a localised placed....I am thinking a piston wrapped in masking tape but the rear bearing left exposed and then this area sprayed with the BAM.It is apparently, ultra hard wearing, low in friction and bonds as if chrome plating........and there is another idea. Getting a few thou of chrome adding to the rear bearing...BAM? Tell us more...I think that chrome plating the rear of the piston would be a major PITA! First you would need to nickel the area and then apply the chrome and then hope that it does not flake off...-Y
Advertise Here
Share This! Share This!