What purpose is the big screw on the rail of a Rws460?

[Lt. Dan]

What purpose is the big screw on the scope rail of a Rws460? I assumed it was to stop a scope from moving rearward on the rail but I  read recently that it was not to be used as a STOP. Is it okay to use or not?

[Roadworthy]

You can use it for a stop, but only BRIEFLY!!  It is likely to shear off as it's a very tiny screw.  I believe the original purpose was to secure a peep sight.  You don't see the sights anymore but Diana has retained the screw.

[ray1377]

What purpose is the big screw on the scope rail of a Rws460? I assumed it was to stop a scope from moving rearward on the rail but I  read recently that it was not to be used as a STOP. Is it okay to use or not?

Yep, I heard that it will shear off after a while and is NOT to be used as a scope stop.
It looks like a sizeable screw but its not. The threaded part is pretty small.

Ray

[Denby95]

As others said, and Hector Medina has said. It's for a peep sight thats pretty much not used by anyone anymore. I believe Hector has also said the newest iteration of Diana no longer will have it as they'll have milled scope rails (Like EMS 34) rather than the riveted one that most Diana's currently have.

[condor22]

 You can remove the screw, put it in one of the empty rear sight screw holes to keep.

[A moron]

Look here under sites and scope.

https://hardairmagazine.com/reviews/airgun-test-reviews/rws-34-meisterschutze-pro-compact-air-rifle-test-review-177-cal/


This guy I guess snapped his off during it as a stop ?

6 post after your last one

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=181283.msg156062120#msg156062120

[A moron]

Some more reading

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/loose-scope-rail-on-rws-34/


Also if you ever think you want to replace the rail

As has been discussed here several times.  The scope rail on most reasonably modern Diana/RWS rifles is RIVETED in-place rather than being attached with screws.   The + shaped feature in the hole is NOT a screw head of any kind

Lot of guys try and end up with more damage.

Here's a 3 part mount story. Also shows about the big screw


https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/06/leapers-base-for-rws-diana-rifles-part-1how-we-began/


As far as what that big screw is for nothing, but I did like that one guys reason in that thread about maybe where you could mount a factory peep site?

[dtdtdtdt]

Best thing to do with the screw is put it a labelled plastic bag in your bit box and forget it was ever there. 

Use decent bases securely clamped to the rail and torqued to about 30in/lb and don't look back.  I did this with my 2 54s and my FWB300 and have NOT had a base move in years unless I loosened the screws to take the base off. 

Most good bases have a recoil stop pin that fits into the holes designed for that purpose on the rail.  Follow the instructions or read to discussion about the rail coming loose in a 350 on this forum.  If you are worried about the stop pin damaging the rail you can put a pellet in the hole and let the soft lead be a "cushion" for the pin. 

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=179870.0

[Lt. Dan]

Best thing to do with the screw is put it a labelled plastic bag in your bit box and forget it was ever there. 

Use decent bases securely clamped to the rail and torqued to about 30in/lb and don't look back.  I did this with my 2 54s and my FWB300 and have NOT had a base move in years unless I loosened the screws to take the base off. 

Most good bases have a recoil stop pin that fits into the holes designed for that purpose on the rail.  Follow the instructions or read to discussion about the rail coming loose in a 350 on this forum.  If you are worried about the stop pin damaging the rail you can put a pellet in the hole and let the soft lead be a "cushion" for the pin. 

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=179870.0

I removed it, and placed it in my parts bin.

I'm using a 4-screw one-piece mount, I removed the stop pin having read that the rail holes will deform using it.

[A moron]

Thing I was looking at is rws thin rail.   Where the scope stop hole get sheared out .   Then like said they brad the rail screws to the receiver so there not easy or to be removed so mounting a more robust rail is a issue.



This may help if you can still get it

https://www.pyramydair.com/product/rws-scope-stop?a=2021

[dtdtdtdt]

One of the best investments you can make for scope mounting and gun tinkering is a Wheeler FAT wrench.  It is a decent torque wrench that fits the range for virtually ALL firearm/air gun screw torque requirements.  It is relatively cheap (less than $50 and a VERY GOOD CHRISTMAS PRESENT SUGGESTION.)   It will save you untold heartaches and damage.   There are more fancy ones but they aren't really necessary as the exact number is less important than consistency and keeping screws at balanced torques.  I have three  different ones (Certified Matco, Gehlmann and 2 FAT wrenches.) a FAT wrench lives in each of my two range bags for use under all conditions.  They use the 1/4" hex driver tips that can be found in metric and SAE easily.  I keep a pack of those in each range bag too!!!

There have been many discussions of correct torque ranges, etc. for air guns.   Once I got my first one, I figured out how poorly I had been doing on screw tightening.  SEARCH this site for torques and ypu will get more information that you will ever need!!!

Basics on torques:   

Ring screws (usually #6 or M2.5 or 3) about 15 in/lb or whatever the manufacturer recommends. Above that and you can damage scope tubes.  #4 or M2 or less no more than 15 and usually 10-12 is a good idea.

Base clamping screws (cross-bolt, Weaver style, Picatinny or similar) usually #8 or M3) about 30in/lb
action / stock screws around 20-25 in/lb or higher - up to 30 in some cases.  Some manufacturers quote numbers.

The four bolt base/ring set you show looks to be a knock-off of the RWS drooper base/ring set.  I generally clamp those to 30in/lb. I have changed over to the ZR base/ring sets exclusively on my 54s.  Those I set to about 30in/lb too. 

Steel screws into aluminum bases will rip the threads out at about35-40in/lb so NEVER go higher.  Some tactical rifles for military service are torqued to 65+ in/lb but those are Very high end bases and rings sets. 

To avoid the damage to the stop pin hole, I suggest putting a pellet base-up in the hole and tapping the pin into that pellet to deform the lead pellet to accept the pin head. Tighten gently to snug but NOT really tight.  That will allow the lead to accept the damage rather than the rail.  The screw next to the damaged stop-pin hole looks to be a real Phillips screw BUT don't mess with it as as Hector says they are pressed in and then machined to make a pure smooth tube inside.  Turning the screw sill definitely do bad things to the internals.~~~

Dave

Cheers

[uglymike]

I use my Fat Wrench every time. $$ well spent. Used it this morning mounting a UTG drop mount on the new 34 meister. 25 in/lb on the 4 for the dovetail, 15 in/lb on the rings, finger tight on 2 stop pins. Run a tap thru all the treads, alcohol wipe to clean. Blue threads and wait a day or 2. Probably wrong, but it's what works for me.

[A moron]

What if you got to do less then 10 inch pound?

Beam type goes to 0.

[Lt. Dan]

Mine is a NEIKO long shank torque screwdriver.  Not the best I know but I like it.

[dtdtdtdt]

I'm glad to hear your techniques.  I may give them a try myself. 

Regarding very low torques - less than 10in/lb.  My Matco one goes lower.  I can set it to less than 5 but don't trust it.  If they are that delicate I would use finger-tight and care. 

A useless piece of information for you.  My son is the VP for Supply Chain for Matco Tool.  He visits manufacturers of all kinds of tools world-wide.  Their torque wrench manufacturer in Taiwan is owned by a Brit!  He set up his OWN certification laboratory for his tools.  The one I have is the one he gave my son as an example of how well they could do.  After my son's engineering team finished with their tests and evaluations it ended up in my Christmas stocking.  I use it to verify my FAT wrenches but my own experiments showed that I didn't really need to get that anal about the exact numbers.  Consistency is the key.

[A moron]

On jobs they got them with a dial and swiss made or something .

Not elcheapo's  , and you got to sign them out with blood.

Wonder how close a china digital gets?  (And trust)?

My ring yokes lowest is 11 inch pound according to the manufacturer.  Mount base I think was 65