Hatsan 135 30 shoots 6 inches to the right every 10-15 shots

[Blowpipe Sam]

Blowpipe Sam, can you describe “ Forearm resting on the ball of my thumb” in a bit more detail? Palm up or down?
And I agree, they’re a bit like an artillery piece 

Palm up with the forearm resting on the muscle (not bone) at the base of my thumb.  The recoil pad is securely against my shoulder but not too firmly and the sniper stock provides a nice cheek weld.  The weird Quattro trigger geometry requires you to adapt to the funky trigger movement.  Seems like everyone comes up with their own personal technique for the trigger pull. 

[mikeyb]

LostAntipodean, good to hear you fixed it!

I agree the 125 is a little better fitting and balanced gun, compared with my 130.  It's like Hatsan went just a _little_ too far with the 130/135. 

Hmm, now I wonder if I can put the .30 barrel from the 130 on the 125...

Yes, good suggestion/good fix!
The swept volume of the 130/135 is larger than the 125 and can throw the 30 cal pellets pretty good. I think 30 cal performance with the smaller volume 125 will be disappointing so I recommend against putting a 30 cal barrel on a mod 125. If you choose to make the change please post results here on the GTA forum. We? I would be interested in seeing your chronograph and accuracy results :-)

[Mossonarock]

@ Mossonarock My Crosman Magfire had a similar thing the hinge screw coming loose. I cleaned the threads with contact cleaner and used a tiny bit of blue thread lock, it’s held well for a while. Can you do something like that on the Edge?

I've used every type of threadlocker available: btw VC3 is my preferred thread locker. None of them hold. Last night, I did what I threatened to do: place a grub screw as a jam to hold the barrel pivot in place. I can't see how it could budge now. It was too late last night to try it out.

[Blowpipe Sam]

@ Mossonarock My Crosman Magfire had a similar thing the hinge screw coming loose. I cleaned the threads with contact cleaner and used a tiny bit of blue thread lock, it’s held well for a while. Can you do something like that on the Edge?

I've used every type of threadlocker available: btw VC3 is my preferred thread locker. None of them hold. Last night, I did what I threatened to do: place a grub screw as a jam to hold the barrel pivot in place. I can't see how it could budge now. It was too late last night to try it out.

I've given up on loose pivot bolts.  I ordered a handful from Hatsan and just replace them as needed.  I also cut washer shims from Beer can aluminum and shim the pivot for a bit more tension.

[avator]

As far as springers go, I have so much more fun shooting the lower powered ones such as the Xisico XS12 or the Mendoza RM 377.

[Mossonarock]

  I ordered a handful from Hatsan and just replace them as needed. 

I did that too. Still would come loose. Last night's target shooting appeared promising at the beginning. I was shooting one tight group, rather than several tight groups. So, I guess placing a grub screw held it. However, after about 40 shots, I guess I got tired because I wasn't shooting a tight group at all anymore. I haven't been doing much of any shooting for the last couple years. So, I am bad out of practice. I'm going to blame me rather than the gun for the drop off in accuracy at the end unless better evidence presents itself.

However, I never did get the group to land where I wanted it to. But I have that problem with all my guns and its a weird mystery I've never been able to figure out. I'll adjust the x-axis of my sight and the shot's y-axis changes. For example, I move it to the left and the shot goes up. Otoh, I change the y-axis of the sight only to have the x-axis of the shot change. I can't figure out how that happens and its so frustrating. I end up chasing zero all over the place and never land it although I do shoot tight groups. Pardon the thread jack.

[avator]

Kinda sounds like some clipping or the crown may need some work.

[Mossonarock]

Better evidence did present itself. I took one shot; the shot landed on the right of the target. I took a second shot; shot landed on the left of the target. I went to cock for a third shot and one of the bolts holding the stock to the gun's action fell into my lap. Yup, a loose screw would do that. Turns out the screw's and the hole's threads were stripped. So, that gun's out of commission for good. I'm not likely to get a larger bolt/screw and rethread the hole any time soon. I'm not very happy about it at all as I had just replaced the gas piston. Then this happened before I could even get the gun sighted in. I used to really enjoy shooting this gun.

sounds like the OP got his gun back in order. that's good to hear.

[WillyTheeKid]

...And I agree, they’re a bit like an artillery piece 

Kia ora 

Nailed it in that line right there! (They REALLY kick!)

...I have been tuning my 135 for months now and have found some nice wee tweeks to share

Remove the sound baffles!...it make's bugger all difference to the sound, but your FPS and accuracy is slightly higher and more consistant with them removed!
Strip the Gun!!...completely!!, I dont know WHAT Hatsan are doing in regards to quality control or the quality of the grease & silicon oil they use...but its all &^^&!
You will find the inner wood on the stock is completely untreated!(and WILL warp if it gets wet!) and it has not even been sanded!!...and it is not uncommon to find large splinters in there.(I found one effecting my trigger!)
Sand and oil the inner stock to seal it, apply good quality grease to the main spring and strip the quatro trigger and rebuild & lube it properly! (see Mike Ellingsworths videos on youtube)
Then you need to clean the absolute @@#$! out of the barrel!...again, I dont WHAT Hatsan are doing at the factory, but my god are there Barrels filthy!!*...once 100% clean, do a Pellet Bore test (And PRAY it passes...or there is usually NOTHING you can do to make the gun accurate, short of buying a new barrel)
*seriously...it took every tool and product I had to get my ACTUALLY clean...the grease?, gunk or what ever that stuff from the factory is, was "dang" near impossible to fully remove!
Once cleaned, lubed etc and reassembled, set it up with the iron sights first..then scope it and have fun dialing in for 30yrd 1inch groups & some stacking!

The hold!...treat it like a 308!, firm grip and firmly pressed into the shoulder gives the best results - no other hold seems to work well and bags & vice simply dont work!

Any drift from that point on...its either the barrel getting dirty again (I think because its so short...its effect is multipled!) or the scope has shifted! (Im on my 3rd scope setup lol.."dang" thing EATS rim fire scope's and older springer scope's 😂...my new ones holding up tho, well, after it blew the light up LED ring thyingy inside to bits...that a fun rebuild! lol)

Kia Kaha and have fun getting that big beasty in line...they are such awesome guns once fully sorted

[Back_Roads]

After that read I will head right for a PCP vs a springer of any brand LOL, well mt K98 Mauser in .22 is a sweet underlever, darn close to shooting a PCP. 

[LostAntipodean]

Palm up with the forearm resting on the muscle (not bone) at the base of my thumb.  The recoil pad is securely against my shoulder but not too firmly and the sniper stock provides a nice cheek weld.  The weird Quattro trigger geometry requires you to adapt to the funky trigger movement.  Seems like everyone comes up with their own personal technique for the trigger pull.
I understand what you mean now, I’ll give that a try. I’m trying different angles/positions with the trigger too, and noticed the 135 and 125 Sniper have different shaped grips.

@Mossonarock, yes, I think I have the 135 fixed. Sorry to hear about your Edge issues.

@Willy, thanks for all the notes. I have not pulled down either of my Hatsans yet… I will start with barrel cleaning.

I’ve been using my 125 Sniper .177 more, and really liking it. Do the .177’s run less pressure on the vortex ram? I.e. less recoil than .22/.25/.30?

A firearms friend has been asking me about PCP rifles, and I’ve told him the little that I know. I have yet to cross over to PCP’s… I’m curious, but also curious about .22 and .25 Hatsan 125’s… 

@back_roads I’ve heard those K98 under levers are very nice.

[lefteyeshot]

Blowpipe Sam, can you describe “ Forearm resting on the ball of my thumb” in a bit more detail? Palm up or down?
And I agree, they’re a bit like an artillery piece 

Palm up with the forearm resting on the muscle (not bone) at the base of my thumb.  The recoil pad is securely against my shoulder but not too firmly and the sniper stock provides a nice cheek weld.  The weird Quattro trigger geometry requires you to adapt to the funky trigger movement.  Seems like everyone comes up with their own personal technique for the trigger pull.

 I pull the Quatro trigger up and back like 45 degrees and rest my thumb on the back of the pistol grip push forward. It's like pinching the trigger finger and thumb together.

[Toxylon]

Do the .177’s run less pressure on the vortex ram? I.e. less recoil than .22/.25/.30?

.177 cal pellets have the highest release pressure and the smallest "exit valve" of 'em all, so it's the other way round. I have yet to handle a spring gun that didn't have LESS recoil and all-round better manners in .22 / .25 cal compared to .177 cal.

[Back_Roads]

 My .177 135 is the harshest break barrel I own, hang on to everything you do not want to fall off when shooting it LOL

[Blowpipe Sam]

I've never shot one of the big Hatsan magnums in .177 but I can tell you that between the .22 mod 125 and the .25 I'll take the .25 for recoil.  It's a lot more manageable.

I use Tim's method for the trigger pull.  It seems to work better with the Sniper stock geometry.

[LostAntipodean]

I’m glad I asked! I can see my Hatsan collection growing, I’d like to try every caliber   

The Hatsan’s remind me of Buell and Moto-Guzzi motorcycles. They’re a bit quirky, but can be really great if you like to tinker and get to know them. I really like that kind of thing 

[Mossonarock]

I agree with what Willy says about refinishing the stock. I bought my refurbished 135 directly from HatsanUSA. Being refurbished, you'd expect it to work straight out of the box. but Oh no it didn't! Basically the trigger didn't work and that was basically because its fiddly bits were snagging on to the wood all around it. So I sanded and enlarged and eventually it worked right.

BTW: here's a link to my thread about refinishing the stock: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=173128.msg155968921#msg155968921

Its worth taking note that a key ingredient I used to refinish the stock was to treat it with bee propolis. I discuss my journey in the link above. Honey bees make a substance called propolis and it comes from tree resin. So, basically its trees' natural substance they make to heal themselves. So its very good for treating, preserving wood. It also makes wood water resistant as it will fill in the wood's holes and crevices. It also smells very nice. Its very easy to use. Violin luthiers use it when making high end violins. Just drop some propolis into ethanol (denatured alcohol) and let it dissolve. Use a paint brush to spread it on the wood. Keep reapplying it till its as dark/thick as you want it to be. If you put too much on, you just sop a rag with clean/fresh alcohol to redissolve it and wipe it off. After propolizing my stock, I topped it off with Tru-oil.

[longhunter]

As far as springers go, I have so much more fun shooting the lower powered ones such as the Xisico XS12 or the Mendoza RM 377.

That's what happens when you retire.
You get old and weak.

[avator]

As far as springers go, I have so much more fun shooting the lower powered ones such as the Xisico XS12 or the Mendoza RM 377.

That's what happens when you retire.
You get old and weak.

LOL... wait til you retire.. I think you'll find out you work harder than you did when you were working. And you don't get paid as much for it.