Back in Stock at NOE....

[rsterne]

That is correct, and in addition NOE sometimes have a sale, where they notify customers by email....

Bob

[triggertreat]

I received the .30 caliber mold today.  It's very pretty.


I do have a question about it though.  The pins are jammed up against the pellet mold when securing the pin brackets.  There is no way the pins will be able to fly out like I am use to with the other two pin molds I have from NOE.  This is my first pellet mold.  Is this normal?  As long as they fall out all will be fine.

[scion19801]

got to slightly bend the pins brackets to get it so the pins are just snug to the tip in the mould pocket. i would loosen the pin brackets then get the mould up to temp and adjust fit then. cold fit versus hot fit, i have found to be very different things. mine when the mould is closed i can get the pins to rotate smoothly yet get no up and down movement when cold. now when the mould is up to temp the pins up and down movement is just a slight tink. Also check to make sure that the pins are centered in the bracket slot. i have found this to be an issue and will cause them to stick upon opening to release the pellet.
 clean it up well with soap and water, dry it good and use a magnifying glass to search to over good for burrs. and you should be good to go. MAN, NOE moulds are a work of art....

[triggertreat]

got to slightly bend the pins brackets to get it so the pins are just snug to the tip in the mould pocket. i would loosen the pin brackets then get the mould up to temp and adjust fit then. cold fit versus hot fit, i have found to be very different things. mine when the mould is closed i can get the pins to rotate smoothly yet get no up and down movement when cold. now when the mould is up to temp the pins up and down movement is just a slight tink. Also check to make sure that the pins are centered in the bracket slot. i have found this to be an issue and will cause them to stick upon opening to release the pellet.
 clean it up well with soap and water, dry it good and use a magnifying glass to search to over good for burrs. and you should be good to go. MAN, NOE moulds are a work of art....

I don't know about bending the brackets on this one.  I would have to bend them 3/8 to a 1/4 inch to achieve that.  Surely NOE doesn't expect a consumer to do that.  Are you talking about pellet or slug molds?

[scion19801]

i'm talking their pellet moulds. I run a .250-27-rf mould. every time i change pins for different pellet weight i have to re-adjust the black pin keepers/brackets. the large shoulder of the pins should set firmly, barely tight to the shoulder bore angle at the base of the pellet skirt. if you hold the side with the pins backwards the pins should all be fully seated in the mould. tip it forward all the pins should all fall out of their bore, none should stick in their slot.
looking at the pic you put up closer the outer two pins look like they are seated correctly. the center two look like they could slide up into the bore maybe a few thousands more. no way on 3/8 to 1/4", not sure where we got crossed there. i was referring to the shoulder angle on the pins themself. seating against the shoulder of the bore at the base of the pellet skirt

[triggertreat]

i'm talking their pellet moulds. I run a .250-27-rf mould. every time i change pins for different pellet weight i have to re-adjust the black pin keepers/brackets.

Thanks! I think I got it worked out.  I did bend the brackets to free up the pins.  It should work fine now.

[scion19801]

ok i guess i don't understand what your saying. i know that what you have pictured although bigger than my .25 cal mould , looks just like my mould pins and all. look at my mould pics here -->https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=173652.60 4th post down. granted mine is only a 2 cavity. i post up a better one of mine

[triggertreat]

ok i guess i don't understand what your saying. i know that what you have pictured although bigger than my .25 cal mould , looks just like my mould pins and all. look at my mould pics here -->https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=173652.60 4th post down. granted mine is only a 2 cavity. i post up a better one of mine

Thanks for all of your input!  It's okay now after bending the brackets.  It was just a little different than the other three NOE molds I have.  I like these fatter pins already before even washing it with soap.  I put a .30 cal JSB in the mold and it fits like a custom made glove.

[scion19801]

nice. I know I've been really happy with my replacement NOE brass 2 cavity. things are such a piece of art, one almost hates to even use them. lOl. glad you got it all straight. I heat cycled my first mould, but just washed and used the replacement without heat cycling. been working like a charm since.

[triggertreat]

nice. I know I've been really happy with my replacement NOE brass 2 cavity. things are such a piece of art, one almost hates to even use them. lOl. glad you got it all straight. I heat cycled my first mould, but just washed and used the replacement without heat cycling. been working like a charm since.

Yeah, I am getting excited the more I look this one over.  I may have to take another look at my other molds now and compare.  On this one, there's no way the pins can bounce up and down any with the mold closed.  If the cuts to the mold are perfect for each, the pellets should be really close to each other.  The pins can move a little on my others up and down when closed, which I have to watch out for in trying to keep all slugs the same.  Not a huge deal, but with this one I should be able to avoid that step.

[scion19801]

My average is .2 grains between my cavities. So my pellet weight is way better than any manufacturers tins. That is a good thing for being consistent on target.

[rsterne]

Keith, the larger diameter pins used in the pellet moulds fit against a taper in the mould.... They need to JUST touch it, so that they can tilt when you open the mould.... If they are adjusted too high, you can actually have difficulty closing the mould.... Another thing to look at is the fit of the pin in the slot.... Since the pin brackets can turn slightly when you tighten them, they can bind against the side of the narrow part of the pin that rides in the slot in the bracket.... You want to make sure that when they are tightened up you can see a sliver of light between both sides of the pin and the slot.... This allows them to tilt easily, and not jam when you close the mould....

Bob

[Madd Hatter]

Keith, the larger diameter pins used in the pellet moulds fit against a taper in the mould.... They need to JUST touch it, so that they can tilt when you open the mould.... If they are adjusted too high, you can actually have difficulty closing the mould.... Another thing to look at is the fit of the pin in the slot.... Since the pin brackets can turn slightly when you tighten them, they can bind against the side of the narrow part of the pin that rides in the slot in the bracket.... You want to make sure that when they are tightened up you can see a sliver of light between both sides of the pin and the slot.... This allows them to tilt easily, and not jam when you close the mould....

Bob

Thanks for that info Bob. I'll need to adjust slightly my new Hunter magnum mould as the pins wouldn't tilt out.

[triggertreat]

Keith, the larger diameter pins used in the pellet moulds fit against a taper in the mould.... They need to JUST touch it, so that they can tilt when you open the mould.... If they are adjusted too high, you can actually have difficulty closing the mould.... Another thing to look at is the fit of the pin in the slot.... Since the pin brackets can turn slightly when you tighten them, they can bind against the side of the narrow part of the pin that rides in the slot in the bracket.... You want to make sure that when they are tightened up you can see a sliver of light between both sides of the pin and the slot.... This allows them to tilt easily, and not jam when you close the mould....

Bob

Thanks Bob!  I have it adjusted like you are saying.  It came with the pins jammed up against the mold with brackets somewhat loose.  I had to bend the brackets just to secure the bracket fully.

I cast roughly 250 to see what I have.  The ones on the right (125 ct.) have already been sized to .299" for testing.  I have spot checked some weights enough to know they aren't all real close there, but some are depending on the cavity, so may need to tweak a little on either the mold or my technique. It's typical though compared to my other molds.


I am not having any issues with drop offs.  The brass mold is much nicer to work with than the aluminum ones.

[scion19801]

Your either not fully up to temp on the mould or your too cold on your lead. I see a lot of side circle defects on the side of the heads. Took me a while to get past that myself. You certainly wasted no time getting the mould up a casting with it. Seeing the defects in the pellets is a good indicator with your weight being off.

[triggertreat]

Your either not fully up to temp on the mould or your too cold on your lead. I see a lot of side circle defects on the side of the heads. Took me a while to get past that myself. You certainly wasted no time getting the mould up a casting with it. Seeing the defects in the pellets is a good indicator with your weight being off.

There are a few.  All of the cold cast are mixed in as well.  I am weighing and culling now.  I did try a new 725° temp setting for about half of them, but had trouble with the spout so went up to 775° for the rest.  I normally cast at 825° to 850°.  What temp are you casting at?  I like to try different things.  You never know what might come of it unless you try.

Added later:  It looks like weights will be ranging from 46.68gr to 47.68gr so far.  All of the 46 grains are within .30gr of each other which is good.  On the 47gns, a .60gr spread.  None are culled yet though.  Just some preliminary stuff here to see what's up.  This is with the lightest pin using 40:1 lead.  Not the 46gr posted, but I know I can adjust this.  I like that they are heavier.  The Impact should be able to launch these around the upper 900's depending on accuracy though.

[scion19801]

My setup is a bit old school. I use a big 2 quart cast iron pot and ladle pour like Wayne does. But I do have a k-type temp probe on my digital multimeter. I try to stay under 700 degrees Fahrenheit.
Soon to try getting a bottom pour lot and pid temp controller and see how that works out to try to cast faster. Lee 4-20 pots are hard to find anywhere. So thinking to just get the 10 pound pot.

[triggertreat]

My setup is a bit old school. I use a big 2 quart cast iron pot and ladle pour like Wayne does. But I do have a k-type temp probe on my digital multimeter. I try to stay under 700 degrees Fahrenheit.
Soon to try getting a bottom pour lot and pid temp controller and see how that works out to try to cast faster. Lee 4-20 pots are hard to find anywhere. So thinking to just get the 10 pound pot.

I'll have to give that temp another try.  I think all the fans I had going was messing with the gravity tip.  Never had such trouble, but usually do my casting in cooler weather with no fans.

Those Lee 4-20's use to be a dime a dozen when I bought mine.  Not sure what's going on there.  I did build a PID controller for it is how I can dial in the temps really close.  I didn't like the rheostat control that came with it.  Temps kept climbing as the level of lead dropped with that.