Awesome job.. pics speak volumes. So many questions get answered through pictures. If I'm not mistaken, Dukja actually originally suggested the CC on the trigger. You did it correctly. Dude, you are going to be surprised what you've done for accuracy. Consider this.... I've found that even the 880 is going to have a favorite pellet.... ours happen to all three like the Winchester domes best of what we've tried. That is perfect for us because they are cheap and local ($4.59 for a tin of 500 @ TSC) We buy 4 - 6 tins every bi-weekly trip to town. Look around and maybe stumble onto a worn out metal receiver/metal pump arm beater and move all your tuned up guts into it. I pick my TW 779 or the 881 up and I can hardly put them down.
NOTE: I updated this post to change the term "sear" to "flat spring" for consistency, since that seems to be the preferred term by those who have contributed to this post. - T.J. I have been working on the Daisy 880 trigger for a while, and have come up with some mods that lighten the trigger pull. I have been preparing an 880 for a local air gun silhouette shooting event. The Daisy has the power and the accuracy for the event, I but needed to do something about the trigger. In order to explain the mods, I think it would be useful to discuss how the 880 trigger works:* When the bolt is pulled back it pushes down on a lever at the back of the hammer, rolling the hammer back and closing the valve. * As the hammer rotates back, the hammer spring pushes on the trigger, which repositions the trigger into the firing position. The trigger also has a stop that locks the forward movement of the hammer, so the hammer cannot rotate to the valve open position unless the trigger is pulled. * The trigger is pegged to a bent steel plate that slides above the hammer pivot. This plate also moves back as the trigger repositions to the cocked position, and it locks the trigger in place. I am going to call this bent metal plate the flat spring (see unmodified flat spring jpeg). You can see part of the flat spring angling up out of the “valve body” (#8 on the 880 parts diagram) if you pull the bolt back and look in the slot where the bolt lever moves (see flat spring in valve body jpeg).* As the bolt is pushed forward, the bolt block depresses the sear, and the front edge of the flt spring engages a step in the aluminum valve body (see flat spring on the step jpeg). This unlocks the trigger.* When the trigger is pulled, the trigger pushes the flat sping forward and the sear jumps off the step. As the trigger rotates forward, it compresses the hammer spring and unlocks the hammer, driving open the valve. In looking at the step where the flat spring engages on the valve body, I could see that the front edge of the steel flat spring was digging into and hanging up on the aluminum step. The front edge of the flat spring had sharp corners from being stamped and formed. I think the flat spring sticking on the aluminum step is what caused the heavy but crisp trigger pull. After a bit of trial and error, I found I could lighten the trigger pull by bending the front of the flat spring downwards and polishing off the sharp corners. This allows the flat spring to still engage on the step, but it now it slides past the step when the trigger is pulled rather than sticking and jumping off.The front surface of the flat spring that engages the step is very short. To modify it, I clamped the short front surface of the flat spring in a smooth-jaw vice up to the first bend and then just pushed it a bit with my finger. It took a few tries to move it to where the front surface would slide past the step rather than stick to the step (See modified flat spring jpeg, left side in the image). As you can see on the modified flat spring, the front surface is no longer parallel with the back surface; it is bent down a few degrees. The flat spring was lubricated with a Teflon based bicycle chain lube during reassembly. Another mod I did was to replace the hammer spring with a shorter, stiffer one (1 3/16 X 3/8 X .054 Ace #136). I cut the spring to be ½ inch long. This was done mostly to make it a lot easier to reassemble the trigger, because there is no preload on the spring. I think the stiffer spring also takes some of the squish out of the trigger (see hammer spring jpeg).The third mod was to make a trigger shoe out of a piece of wood and glue it to the trigger. The shoe widens the contact surface from ¼” to ½”. It also reduces the curvature of the trigger (see trigger shoe jpeg). I have been testing the trigger for a few weeks and have not seen any indication that it will accidentally discharge from a bump. Cocking the 880 does not put pressure on the flat spring to release, because you have to pull on the trigger to supply the pressure. However, please proceed carefully with any trigger mod, and test it to make sure it still works safely. These mods are reversible if you decide you don’t like what they do. YMMVTradeoffs* Slightly less crisp release but I think more predictable
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