Which aftermarket hammer for gen 1 Mrod?

[oenomaker]

I just upgraded my gen 1 marauder to a WAR TSS system and I like the outcome, but I'm craving a shorter dwell time because I still have an appreciable bell curve.  Which after market hammer would you guys recommend that would work with the twin spring system?

[Dairyboy]

MDS hammer hands down. WAR has them also Rocker1 makes them.

[oenomaker]

Just ordered an MDS hammer from WAR.  The TSS wa's a huge upgrade, but I want to get rid of that bell curve!

[mobilemail]

If you're still running the stock valve, you can also fine tune the "velocity adjuster" (that is the hole on the right side of the air tube, normally hidden by the stock).  Be aware that there is a grub screw in that hole that covers the actual adjuster, you take the grub screw out to do your tuning. 

What has worked for me in the past is to get the gun's performance tuned in with this screw "wide open", about 4 turns out from fully closed. Then I will turn the adjuster screw in until it just starts to flatten the curve a bit.  I think on a .25 the velocity adjuster was about 2 full turns from fully closed, plus or minus, when the gun was tuned for a flat shot string around 38fpe.

But change the hammer first, you will have to retune after that anyway, and may be happy with the performance curve.

[oenomaker]

If you're still running the stock valve, you can also fine tune the "velocity adjuster" (that is the hole on the right side of the air tube, normally hidden by the stock).  Be aware that there is a grub screw in that hole that covers the actual adjuster, you take the grub screw out to do your tuning. 

What has worked for me in the past is to get the gun's performance tuned in with this screw "wide open", about 4 turns out from fully closed. Then I will turn the adjuster screw in until it just starts to flatten the curve a bit.  I think on a .25 the velocity adjuster was about 2 full turns from fully closed, plus or minus, when the gun was tuned for a flat shot string around 38fpe.

But change the hammer first, you will have to retune after that anyway, and may be happy with the performance curve.

I am running the stock valve, but I've upgraded to a wicked air rifles twin spring system for the hammer debounce.  Their recommendation is to open the velocity screw all the way, then use the combination of hammer spring and preload spring to adjust the shot string.  It sounds like you are talking about using a stock hammer spring?  I was under the impression that the TSS with the MDS hammer would let me tune to my hearts content.

[mobilemail]

If you're still running the stock valve, you can also fine tune the "velocity adjuster" (that is the hole on the right side of the air tube, normally hidden by the stock).  Be aware that there is a grub screw in that hole that covers the actual adjuster, you take the grub screw out to do your tuning. 

What has worked for me in the past is to get the gun's performance tuned in with this screw "wide open", about 4 turns out from fully closed. Then I will turn the adjuster screw in until it just starts to flatten the curve a bit.  I think on a .25 the velocity adjuster was about 2 full turns from fully closed, plus or minus, when the gun was tuned for a flat shot string around 38fpe.

But change the hammer first, you will have to retune after that anyway, and may be happy with the performance curve.

I am running the stock valve, but I've upgraded to a wicked air rifles twin spring system for the hammer debounce.  Their recommendation is to open the velocity screw all the way, then use the combination of hammer spring and preload spring to adjust the shot string.  It sounds like you are talking about using a stock hammer spring?  I was under the impression that the TSS with the MDS hammer would let me tune to my hearts content.

Yes, my comments are generally for an mrod closer to stock.  But if you tune it with the TSS/MDS and still want to play...it's easy to turn it back where you started. :-)