Hatsan 95 tune.

[RCO]

I finally got the 95 back together and it functions as it should. I've done the full tune, JM seal, buttons sleeved piston, top hat, delrin guides etc. I'll chrony it tomorrow and then tear it down to try a few things.

I need to lengthen the front trigger screw to lighten the trigger pull to match the Quattro trigger I have in my Walter Talon Magnum. This screw modgives less sear engagement. Has anyone changed the trigger spring to one that is lighter? If so was there any negative effects?

The 95 doesn't come with a top hat. I don't want or need any more spring pre-load than the 95 has from the factory. I added a top hat with a thin head and removed one of the fat spacers between the guide and spring which is about the same thickness. Where can I get the thin washers I have between the spring and guide I have on some of my guns?

You guys who have done the tune, have you had better luck with a light or heavy top hat? I can make either.

I sleeved the piston with .004 aluminum that I had. Jeff where did you get that thin stainless you used?

I' need to see tomorrow what the Chorny says.

[Privateer]

https://www.grainger.com/product/PRECISION-BRAND-Shim-Stock-3L607?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/3L434_AS01?$smthumb$

[RCO]

Thanks Jeff.

Are there any Hatsan tuners that could help with the best top hat choice?

One of the changes is I'm not going to use the tar. The sleeve to spring fit doesn't need it.

[SpiralGroove]

RCO,
I don't think the top-hat needs to be that big.  Just needs to fit tight inside the spring and provide extra cushion vs. nothing.  My top-hat was made from Delrin, and you need a washer in-between the spring.

All washer's I have bought are hardened and a PITA to drill out to fit well.  I'm going to buy some steel, round stock and make my own washers - then you have total control.  The washers don't need to be hardened.

I hope this helps ......... Kirk

[RCO]

Thanks Kirk, I've got the info saved you sent. It saves me a lot of time.

I chronied  the 95 today and it was slow. Only showed 730 fps. So I made a new metal top hat and took out the sleeve. The spring guide is not too tight so maybe the sleeve is binding on the spring. I can hear a little ring now. I'll chrony it tomorrow and go from there.

[SpiralGroove]

I didn't sleeve my Hatsan pistons or use top hats; if done now, I would have.

[Yogi]

Does the 95 Vortex benefit from buttoned pistons?

-Y

[SpiralGroove]

Yogi,
I would think most pistons would benefit from buttons, helps minimize rearward, vertical movement. 

[RCO]

I changed the metal top hat to a delrin one. The gun is shooting 22 FPE, 829 fps with 14.5 g pellets. I'll shoot it to see If it comes down some. If it doesn't I'll take out the second "factory" washer on the valve guide. That should get me to 19+ - 20 fpe, that's plenty. Seems to be no buzz and just the thud at the end of the stroke.

BY the way, I got the brake - sight off. I heated a razor-blade with my torch "red" and cut a line along the bottom of the break. It cut a thin line. I then glued and sanded the seam. It looks like I never touched it. If I want to use it again, I would file down the barrel splines some and sand the inside of the break some for a proper fit.

[Yogi]

How about a close-up of you new cocking handle barrel end.  I guess it is a good muzzle protector?
What did you do with the rear sight?

-Y