Author Topic: Benjamin Sheridan .20 cal (Read 5105 times))

jstewart_1981 · « **on:** February 22, 2016, 08:38:56 AM »

I have one of these from when I was a kid. The gun is about 20-22 years old. I think a seal or something went bad years ago all the air leaks out when I pump it up. After getting a couple new guns lately this has sparked a fire for me. Is there anyway I can fix this gun at home? If so can someone send me on the right path, parts I may need etc. Thanks in advance.

Jimmy

bbv13 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2016, 09:44:51 AM »

Hi and welcome,

You can get a seal kit and the tools you need but you should first try properly oiling it and see if it rejuvenates the seals. Walmart has Crosman Pelgun oil, 30wt non-detergent motor oil will also work and you may have some out in the shed. Regular motor oil with detergents can damage the seals. Oil it and fire it to push the oil through then let it set for a day to see what happens? It can take a few days to soak in and repair the seals. Look at the support section on Crosman's site and you will find the owners manual and exploded drawing of your rifle.

Good luck

Bryan

avator · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2016, 09:53:40 AM »

You can also do a google search on the Sheridan reseal process. There are several you tube videos that show how to disassemble and reassemble. The biggest chance for something to go wrong with the home repair is stripping out the retaining nut on the soldered in valve. The retaining nut is steel and the valve (female) threads are brass and you have the valve spring holding pressure against you trying to line the threads up. There are a few guys here that offer to reseal for you at a reasonable deal. MAC1 airguns sell the kit and secret sauce (the lube) but you have to purchase the tool. Pyrymyd Air sells the kit including the tool but you'll want to get the lube.
Good Luck and Welcome to GTA.

jstewart_1981 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2016, 10:00:41 AM »

Thank you Avator, I think this is the route Ill need to go. I am quite handy I feel assured I can make the repair I just didnt know what to get and where to start.

avator · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2016, 10:09:19 AM »

YOU CAN DO IT !!!!
and we are always here to help.

bantam5s · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2016, 06:34:38 PM »

Took me less than an hour for my '79 blue streak. You can find a kit with the tool, but the mac1 parts are the best,and it includes the secret sauce.

454ho · « **Reply #6 on:** February 23, 2016, 12:25:58 AM »

Before you oil it up and pump it a bunch of times, I would recommend driving out the two roll pins near the muzzle and remove the pump arm assembly. Clean out any crud that may be down in the tube. Use mineral spirits and some rags. Also check the pump cup, it is probably hard. Maybe soak it in Pellgun oil overnight before reassembly. This will help keep you from pumping any debris through the valve unnecessarily.

Also, based on you description of 20-22 years old, your rifle is from the 'transition' years when Crosman bought and took over operations of Benjamin-Sheridan. Sometime around '95 Crosman switched from a soldered in valve to a cartridge valve. You really need to determine the exact date of manufacture before you order any kits/parts. There should be a serial number etched or stamped on the air tube somewhere. Post the number or a picture of it and someone here can tell you when it was made.

Pre '95 kit - https://www.pyramydair.com/product/benjamin-sheridan-repair-kit-fits-some-pre-1995-multi-pump-guns-w?a=624

Post '95 kit - https://www.pyramydair.com/product/benjamin-sheridan-repair-kit-fits-some-post-1995-multi-pumps-w?a=911

WECSOG · « **Reply #7 on:** March 02, 2016, 02:24:25 PM »

You can also buy just the tool from PA, if you don't want to buy the seal kit they sell. That's what I did. It's only $12. Here it is:
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-service-station-soldered-valve-wrench-fits-select-benjamin-air?a=5336

I've heard that the seal kit Mac1 sells is better than the one PA sells, which is one reason you might want to buy the tool alone. You might want to add some pellets or something to the order, to reduce the hit on shipping.

jstewart_1981 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2016, 08:53:03 AM »

Trying to do a reseal of my gun this weekend with no luck. Apparently mine is supposed to be done by taking the roll pins out and taking off the cocking arm and coming in that way? According to the directions they sent. I cant for the life of me get the roll pins out of the cocking arm. Suggestions??

tennx · « **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2016, 09:24:36 AM »

Quote from: jstewart_1981 on March 07, 2016, 08:53:03 AM

Trying to do a reseal of my gun this weekend with no luck. Apparently mine is supposed to be done by taking the roll pins out and taking off the cocking arm and coming in that way? According to the directions they sent. I cant for the life of me get the roll pins out of the cocking arm. Suggestions??

Do u not know how to remove pins or cant...this is for a 312 but should be the same. good luck

jstewart_1981 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 07, 2016, 09:44:52 AM »

I assumed you use a punch and knock them out. That didnt work so well. Ill watch the video. Thank you sir.

jstewart_1981 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 07, 2016, 09:55:14 AM »

It appears the end cap needs to come off first and that it has a set screw holding the roll pins in. From memory my cap does not have a screw in it but I may be wrong. I do know the pins wouldnt just knock out.

oldair · « **Reply #12 on:** March 07, 2016, 10:25:58 AM »

Later guns do not use the slip-fit pin with set screw retainer as shown for the older gun in the video. Roll pins can be a major pain to remove, but a roll-pin punch with sharp hammer blows should do it. It helps to have good support near or around the pin on the "outgoing" side so the jolt from your hammer is transferred effectively to the parts.
Good luck!

jstewart_1981 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 07, 2016, 11:19:33 AM »

So I just need better support and a better punch then? I was afraid I was going to break something. Can you buy an actual roll pin punch at like home depot? I tried a nail punch and no luck but it didnt fit like it should have.

tennx · « **Reply #14 on:** March 07, 2016, 11:46:23 AM »

Quote from: jstewart_1981 on March 07, 2016, 11:19:33 AM

So I just need better support and a better punch then? I was afraid I was going to break something. Can you buy an actual roll pin punch at like home depot? I tried a nail punch and no luck but it didnt fit like it should have.

I got a nice pack of punches from Harbor Freight, they work for me...good luck
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-punch-set-93424.html

avator · « **Reply #15 on:** March 07, 2016, 08:35:18 PM »

I bought the only one they had at our local Walmart and it just happened to be the exact size needed. Works great on all my pumpers. I wish they all had set screws. I have a couple that like to walk out. I'm going to try something new to me. I'm going to make a solid roll pim out of a drill shank and cut a groove in the center of it. I can either use a cir clip in the pump arm. I think I can spread it enough to slip one in as long as I don't cut the groove deep enough to make it weak.

Rob112o · « **Reply #16 on:** March 08, 2016, 01:23:15 AM »

Yea you don't want to use a nail punch. The point on that will go inside the roll of the pin and will actually start making the roll pin wider at that end.

jstewart_1981 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2016, 08:33:15 AM »

Thanks guys Im gonna give it another go this week. Ill try the mentioned advice.

Rob112o · « **Reply #18 on:** March 08, 2016, 02:03:33 PM »

Let us see her now that you can post pictures. You'll be able to get it have patience.

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Benjamin Sheridan .20 cal

Author Topic: Benjamin Sheridan .20 cal (Read 5105 times))