GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: KSXL1000 on October 17, 2015, 12:55:30 PM
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Just bought a brand new Trail XL 1000. Love the rifle in general but Not liking the amount of force required to pull the trigger. Went to CDT's site and was looking at the GRT III trigger. Problem is, my trigger doesn't look quite like either of the versions shown on CDT's site. Mine has an open curved guide slot on both sides instead of one side only and some other small differences.
What trigger do I have?
Any way to modify it for less pull?
Will the RC bearing mod will work with this design?
Which aftermarket triggers on CDT's site will work with this design?
(http://i.imgur.com/js7GLif.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NSQg3Nb.jpg)
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Your trigger appears to be the older Theoben design which will take the GRT III trigger. Installation of the GRT III changes the geometry of the trigger a bit in addition to removing the "lawyer spring" inside your hollow trigger. Removal of that spring eases trigger pull significantly. Switching to a GRT III was the best modification I made to my Crosman NP rifle.
There are other modifications to make but that was the most noticeable. If you must send your gun back for any reason reinstall the original trigger first. If it's a warranty thing you will probably never see that gun again. They will send a brand new one.
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If I were you, I would jump all over this!
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=98625.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=98625.0)
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Thanks for the advice and the heads up on the trigger for sale in the classifieds. Have messaged the seller! ;)
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Just bought a brand new Trail XL 1000. Love the rifle in general but Not liking the amount of force required to pull the trigger. Went to CDT's site and was looking at the GRT III trigger. Problem is, my trigger doesn't look quite like either of the versions shown on CDT's site. Mine has an open curved guide slot on both sides instead of one side only and some other small differences.
What trigger do I have?
Any way to modify it for less pull?
Will the RC bearing mod will work with this design?
Which aftermarket triggers on CDT's site will work with this design?
(http://i.imgur.com/js7GLif.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NSQg3Nb.jpg)
I have a GRTIII in my NP XL1100 and really like it BUT...............
I strongly suggest you file down the "tab" on the anti-beartrap lever as shown in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfNg102doKY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfNg102doKY)
I didn't do it initially and almost broke my arm when the barrel snapped back on me while cocking it! And that occurred while I was holding the barrel VERY tightly in case this might happen. NO way I could hold it past about 2/3 of the way. She snapped back the last 1/3 but fortunately didn't cause any harm. Mixed blessing actually as I'd shimmed the rear scope mount because of barrel droop and this evidently bent the barrel up ever so slightly, allowing me to remove the shimming. Take off about 1/8" of material-just DO IT. I've since fired hundreds of rounds through it problem free. Also make any adjustments in small increments. Mine barely has a first stage at all, pretty much a one stage trigger but that's fine for me. Very light pull and clean break but no hair trigger.
Ed
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Thanks for the info. I missed out on the GTR III trigger that was listed in the classifieds, so I went the RC Bearing route for now. I have a ton of RC stuff and just happened to have a 5X8X2.5 mm ball bearing.
I installed it and now the trigger feels much much better. Not a hair trigger but very short travel and alot less pull required. Safety still works fine.
Old Corps - do you know whether the issue you are referring to is specific to the GTR III trigger? None of the videos I have watched with the ball bearing mod have mentioned this issue. Everything seems to be working fine, and I don't want to go filing down the tab if not needed with the stock trigger w/ball bearing mod.
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Thanks for the info. I missed out on the GTR III trigger that was listed in the classifieds, so I went the RC Bearing route for now. I have a ton of RC stuff and just happened to have a 5X8X2.5 mm ball bearing.
I installed it and now the trigger feels much much better. Not a hair trigger but very short travel and alot less pull required. Safety still works fine.
Old Corps - do you know whether the issue you are referring to is specific to the GTR III trigger? None of the videos I hawhichve watched with the ball bearing mod have mentioned this issue. Everything seems to be working fine, and I don't want to go filing down the tab if not needed with the stock trigger w/ball bearing mod.
Yes, the issue I described is specific to the GRTIII IN THE XL. I also first did the bearing fix (same size as yours) and it did improve it but still went ahead with the GRT which is outstanding as long as some material is taken off that "tab". VERY scary when the barrel snapped back. I needed to change my underwear............ ::) I didn't experience any problem using the bearing mod. I just knew how much better it could be because I'd already experienced "Tuna" triggers in 2 other rifles.
Enjoy your XL, she's a monster ain't she? ;)
Ed
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Just bought a brand new Trail XL 1000. Love the rifle in general but Not liking the amount of force required to pull the trigger. Went to CDT's site and was looking at the GRT III trigger. Problem is, my trigger doesn't look quite like either of the versions shown on CDT's site. Mine has an open curved guide slot on both sides instead of one side only and some other small differences.
What trigger do I have?
Any way to modify it for less pull?
Will the RC bearing mod will work with this design?
Which aftermarket triggers on CDT's site will work with this design?
(http://i.imgur.com/js7GLif.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NSQg3Nb.jpg)
I have a GRTIII in my NP XL1100 and really like it BUT...............
I strongly suggest you file down the "tab" on the anti-beartrap lever as shown in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfNg102doKY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfNg102doKY)
I didn't do it initially and almost broke my arm when the barrel snapped back on me while cocking it! And that occurred while I was holding the barrel VERY tightly in case this might happen. NO way I could hold it past about 2/3 of the way. She snapped back the last 1/3 but fortunately didn't cause any harm. Mixed blessing actually as I'd shimmed the rear scope mount because of barrel droop and this evidently bent the barrel up ever so slightly, allowing me to remove the shimming. Take off about 1/8" of material-just DO IT. I've since fired hundreds of rounds through it problem free. Also make any adjustments in small increments. Mine barely has a first stage at all, pretty much a one stage trigger but that's fine for me. Very light pull and clean break but no hair trigger.
Ed
In the bottom picture, is that the lawyer spring? I've got a XL1100 I've had for 3 yrs that I have barely used. Maybe 300 pellets or so? The trigger is pretty stiff & I never really mastered the artillery hold. If I could improve the trigger, I may hold onto it. If not, I might just sell it to build up my Slayer fund.
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I just did the RC bearing mod to my Titan NP and it is amazing. I believe the Lawyer spring resides inside the trigger blade. If you search youtube for "How To Fix A Crosman Trigger, The Do's and Don'ts, Step by Step" it will walk you through it step by step.
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Dave-- NO! That spring stays there even if you do the bearing mod or install a Tuna trigger. There is a small spring that wraps around the fat pin and ends in the trigger itself. This is the return spring and you remove it when doing the bearing fix or installing the GRTIII. There really isn't a "lawyer spring" the whole OEM trigger design is referred to as a lawyer trigger. You should do one fix or the other. Makes firing that monster accurately SO much easier. If putting a GRT in you really need to remove some material from the tab on the anti-beartrap lever though. Hope this helps!
Ed
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Thanks guys.
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Ed, could you explain some more about the bear trap tab you say needs shortening when you have the GRT III trigger? I don't understand why there is a risk that the barrel snaps back. If the sear engages, as it should when you cock the gun, why is there a risk that the tab on the bear trap lever can make the barrel snap back? Thanks so much!
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Ed, could you explain some more about the bear trap tab you say needs shortening when you have the GRT III trigger? I don't understand why there is a risk that the barrel snaps back. If the sear engages, as it should when you cock the gun, why is there a risk that the tab on the bear trap lever can make the barrel snap back? Thanks so much!
Sorry Christian but I can't explain why because I don't really know myself. It might have been a combination of the tab not clearing the fat pin and/or where the adjustment for the 2nd stage was at. What I do KNOW is that when the barrel was brought down all the way it "clicked" like it cocked then immediately let go. NOT a fun experience! As you can see from the video I posted I'm not the only one that experienced this. I also know that since shortening the tab I've shot hundreds of rounds with no problem. What actually occurred mechanically is for wiser minds than mine. :-[
Ed
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Sorry Christian but I can't explain why because I don't really know myself. It might have been a combination of the tab not clearing the fat pin and/or where the adjustment for the 2nd stage was at. What I do KNOW is that when the barrel was brought down all the way it "clicked" like it cocked then immediately let go. NOT a fun experience! As you can see from the video I posted I'm not the only one that experienced this. I also know that since shortening the tab I've shot hundreds of rounds with no problem. What actually occurred mechanically is for wiser minds than mine. :-[
Ed
It seems that for some reason the tab on the bear trap lever ran into an interference with the fat pin of your GRT III. I have GRT III triggers in both of my Crosman guns and haven't had the problem you describe.
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This mod is detailed in the CDT instructions. Sometimes, interference between the two components causes an unsafe condition. It is due to the tolerances of the two parts. The trimming alleviates this. The bear trap prevents the sear from releasing when the barrel is broken.
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Sorry Christian but I can't explain why because I don't really know myself. It might have been a combination of the tab not clearing the fat pin and/or where the adjustment for the 2nd stage was at. What I do KNOW is that when the barrel was brought down all the way it "clicked" like it cocked then immediately let go. NOT a fun experience! As you can see from the video I posted I'm not the only one that experienced this. I also know that since shortening the tab I've shot hundreds of rounds with no problem. What actually occurred mechanically is for wiser minds than mine. :-[
Ed
[/quote
It seems that for some reason the tab on the bear trap lever ran into an interference with the fat pin of your GRT III. I have GRT III triggers in both of my Crosman guns and haven't had the problem you describe.
I have Tuna triggers in two other rifles as well and had no such problem either. As clearly shown on CDT's site the XL often times has a problem with the GRTIII. Charlie (Bob then Gene) didn't know exactly why but let you know up front of the possibility. Hey, if someone has puts GRT in an XL and doesn't want to file that tab down I completely understand that, I didn't either. Problem is, you won't know you have an issue until you do. I'd fired mine several times and also gave it a number whacks on the butt to see if it was safe before the barrel let go. Just posted about this to let others know what can happen. If I should have a warranty problem I'd order another lever from Crosman for a few bucks and put everything back to OEM before sending it in.
Ed