GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: Gr8Gorilla on September 28, 2015, 04:01:27 PM
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I just got this on Gunbroker for $175. So now I guess I need to Steroid it as soon as I get it! I'm excited to get a .20 cal pumper. (http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/509693000/509693145/pix998051646.jpg)
(http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/509693000/509693145/pix329606042.jpg)
(http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/509693000/509693145/pix196613800.jpg)
(http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/509693000/509693145/pix206009969.jpg)
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Looks good ! Enjoy it !
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How did I do as far as price?
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If it's a working rifle $175 is a good number. I've seen them for $225 or more.
Bryan
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Like Bryan said if it holds air and shoots with power you did ok. I would shoot it unless it needs a rebuild. Those older streaks have plenty of power.
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These can kill a nutria at 50 yards, with a single headshot, on 8 pumps!
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Instead of getting it steroided, you should just remove the rear sight ( which can cause barrel seperation) and replace it with a williams peep, as I see it's already drilled and tapped for one ( because of that I'm assuming it may be late 80's)
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Good advise from others.
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Congrats!
+1 on removing the rear sight & replacing it with a Williams. And, get yourself some Secret Sauce to keep her lubed up & shooting strong.
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The listing stated that ithe shot with authority.
What is the harm in a steroid as long as I keep all original parts?
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There's no harm but I don't think you can go back. If it shoots hard you may not even need the extra power and you likely can buy another gun for what you will have in it. With all that said you will not regret getting it Steroid modified if that's what you decide to do.
Bryan
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Very nice looking ag!
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The listing stated that ithe shot with authority.
What is the harm in a steroid as long as I keep all original parts?
A Steroid treatment will take a great gun that is no longer made, even better & extend it's life.
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Nice Blue man!! There a a lot of Blues currently on the Yellow and AA classifieds. Even here we got a guy selling 3 of them. All at a pretty good price too. Yea u should def get that rear sight off and spread the legs until you get yourself a peep.
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This is my first pumper and I wanted the .20 and a quality gun. Part of the reason for the steroid is the increased efficiency. I plan to use it to teach my wife to shoot. She doesn't even like the recoil of a springer...but this should work fine for me and her, but mostly me.
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Most of the Streaks I saw in good working condition with nice stocks were going for around $300, that's blues and silvers.
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For indoors shooting, 2 or 3 pumps is plenty. For outdoors, you can vary the number of pumps to suit the range you are shooting at and hit target items at different ranges using virtually, the same sight picture!
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For indoors shooting, 2 or 3 pumps is plenty. For outdoors, you can vary the number of pumps to suit the range you are shooting at and hit target items at different ranges using virtually, the same sight picture!
Good point. Just another example of the versatility of these vintage pumpers. Once you find the right ammo for your particular gun, you've got yourself a great shooter.
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Nice Blue man!! There a a lot of Blues currently on the Yellow and AA classifieds. Even here we got a guy selling 3 of them. All at a pretty good price too. Yea u should def get that rear sight off and spread the legs until you get yourself a peep.
Sorry for a couple ignorant questions re. a '78 Model C Blue Streak........
What's the deal with the problem with the OEM rear sight & "spreading the legs"?
I keep reading about keeping it lubricated but what/where other than the cocking linkage requires oiling/lube and what type should be used?
I came into ownership of one of these in great shape that shoots STRONG and I don't want do anything to mess it up.
Thanks!
Ed
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The rear sight, just by the way it is attached can cause barrel separation. Mac1 secret sauce is probably the best oil for these guns. Pivot points, pump cup, probe o-ring and a drop or two once in awhile down the transfer port will do wonders.
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The rear sight, just by the way it is attached can cause barrel separation. Mac1 secret sauce is probably the best oil for these guns. Pivot points, pump cup, probe o-ring and a drop or two once in awhile down the transfer port will do wonders.
+1 It's made specifically for pumpers. Works on all the moving parts & helps preserve your rifle. A few drops on the piston & it get shot through the internals all the way out the barrel.
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Remove the rear sight,replace with the Williams peep.Secret sauce is an excellent lubricant.Proper lubrication expels the contaminants with each shot and reduces wear.Cock before pumping to allow good seat alignment.Proper grip while pumping will keep everything aligned with less stress.Store uncocked, with a pump or two in it.Enjoy,it is a true piece of Americana.
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The rear sight, just by the way it is attached can cause barrel separation. Mac1 secret sauce is probably the best oil for these guns. Pivot points, pump cup, probe o-ring and a drop or two once in awhile down the transfer port will do wonders.
Thanks for the reply, appreciate it. Now I need to find a parts diagram somewhere to identify those parts & see where they're located. Do you know where I could find one? Is there another model number I need to find it on Crosman's site? It IS a Model C Blue Streak manufactured in Racine in '78, has the toggle safety, .20 cal. Identical to "Gorilla's" in the 1st post here....except mine doesn't have those rust spots on the bolt.....LOL. Am I correct in assuming the rear sight is removed by "spreading its legs" out a bit? I can't see any other method of attachment.
Sorry for all the questions.
Ed
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Thanks to Dave & John as well! Is the Williams peep a bolt on or require drilling, etc?
Ed
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The rear sight, just by the way it is attached can cause barrel separation. Mac1 secret sauce is probably the best oil for these guns. Pivot points, pump cup, probe o-ring and a drop or two once in awhile down the transfer port will do wonders.
Thanks for the reply, appreciate it. Now I need to find a parts diagram somewhere to identify those parts & see where they're located. Do you know where I could find one? Is there another model number I need to find it on Crosman's site? It IS a Model C Blue Streak manufactured in Racine in '78, has the toggle safety, .20 cal. Identical to "Gorilla's" in the 1st post here....except mine doesn't have those rust spots on the bolt.....LOL. Am I correct in assuming the rear sight is removed by "spreading its legs" out a bit? I can't see any other method of attachment.
Sorry for all the questions.
Ed
You are correct sir.
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I removed the rear sight by using a dull screwdriver to hold one of the wedges in place and used a rubber mallet to drift the sight to the rear.Be careful not to scratch the air cylinder.The 4th picture in the original post shows the 2 holes on the right side of the breech for the Williams peep sight.Screws are included with the sight.
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So am I correct In thinking that the late 80's sheridans( the last sheridans that were ever made) came pre drilled and tapped? I know that the .20 cal benjamins did ( not a sheridan, just a .20 cal benjamin with a different label)
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I'm pretty sure all of the Racine made Sheridan's and the later Crosman Sheridans were drilled and tapped for a Williams peep. There were also some special edition guns made earlier that were also set up for Williams sights. I have one that is set up like this from the factory. I think it is a 1963 model.
Bryan
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Only the early '50s model Dans and those made from about '85 on were drilled. All 'real' Sheridans were made in Racine. The later Crosman-Dans were made in Nueva York.
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To remover a rear sight that is NOT helpd in place by small screws ;
I put muzzle against the carpeted floor, take a block of wood & lay it up against the back of the site, & smack it with a mallet/hammer. Site will " shoot " straight out to the front.
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THANKS to everyone that responded, really appreciated! I have the 2 screws that go through a small plate right by the bolt. As in Gorilla's 2nd pic/1st post here. Would those be the ones for the Williams sight?
Also, if any of you fine gentlemen could give me a link or point me in the right direction to a parts diagram for a '78 Model C Blue Streak (Racine .20 cal.) that'd be outstanding. I've searched through the library and vintage gun gates to no avail. Don't wanna screw up this fine example I've been lucky enough to acquire. It operates and shoots great and I want it to continue to do so when my Grandsons get it. At my age that ain't gonna be a long time......... :-\
Thanks again!
Ed
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THANKS to everyone that responded, really appreciated! I have the 2 screws that go through a small plate right by the bolt. As in Gorilla's 2nd pic/1st post here. Would those be the ones for the Williams sight?
Also, if any of you fine gentlemen could give me a link or point me in the right direction to a parts diagram for a '78 Model C Blue Streak (Racine .20 cal.) that'd be outstanding. I've searched through the library and vintage gun gates to no avail. Don't wanna screw up this fine example I've been lucky enough to acquire. It operates and shoots great and I want it to continue to do so when my Grandsons get it. At my age that ain't gonna be a long time......... :-\
Thanks again!
Ed
Yes, if you have the 2 screw holes on the right side near the bolt, those are for a Williams peep site.
See if these help you .
http://stevespages.com/pdf/sheridan_blue-streak-silver-streak.pdf (http://stevespages.com/pdf/sheridan_blue-streak-silver-streak.pdf)
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild)
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THANKS to everyone that responded, really appreciated! I have the 2 screws that go through a small plate right by the bolt. As in Gorilla's 2nd pic/1st post here. Would those be the ones for the Williams sight?
Also, if any of you fine gentlemen could give me a link or point me in the right direction to a parts diagram for a '78 Model C Blue Streak (Racine .20 cal.) that'd be outstanding. I've searched through the library and vintage gun gates to no avail. Don't wanna screw up this fine example I've been lucky enough to acquire. It operates and shoots great and I want it to continue to do so when my Grandsons get it. At my age that ain't gonna be a long time......... :-\
Thanks again!
Ed
THANKS for those links, just what I need! Really appreciate you taking the time. I now realize that mine does NOT have the peep sight holes drilled & tapped. The screws I mentioned earlier are on the LEFT side & hold the cam lock plate that provides adjustment for the bolt fitment. I'm afraid if I attempt to drill/tap those holes it might be worse than just leaving the OEM sight in place and hoping for the best. :-\ There's no sign of any separation problem now. I'll think about it. We've got company coming today but I plan on taking her apart for cleaning/lubing next week. Guess I need to order some "secret sauce" first.
Ed
Yes, if you have the 2 screw holes on the right side near the bolt, those are for a Williams peep site.
See if these help you .
http://stevespages.com/pdf/sheridan_blue-streak-silver-streak.pdf (http://stevespages.com/pdf/sheridan_blue-streak-silver-streak.pdf)
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild)
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The ones holding that little metal cover in actually hold the ( cam plate I think it's called in) the ones on the right are the ones for a peep.
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Yep, thanks Dave. Mine doesn't have holes for the Williams peep, unfortunately.
Ed