Bought a 95 a few months ago. Shot about 2500 pellets through it with only minor dieseling during the first 100 shots. Purchased a vortek kit and installed it using the grease they supplied in the kit. The rifle kept dieseling past 250 shots so I bought some krytox 205 and cleaned out the gun again with brake cleaner followed by multiple paper towels on a rod and finished off with some simple green. Rifle still dieseled after 100 shots. Took it apart again and cleaned out all the krytox at the piston and chamber that was brownish white. Reapplied Krytox and assembled the gun but it's still dieseling after 150 shots. I took out the breech seal and washed it with soap and cleaned the breech seal cutout. I'm out of ideas. Can grease get in the forks? Are the forks hollow? Is there anything better to degrease with than brake cleaner? Maybe I should soak the fork/breech/chamber in brake cleaner? I soaked it in simple green when I first started this whole vortek install. Any insight into the issue would be greatly appreciated, I'm kinda losing my mind here :o
I should mention the dieseling varies from strong (thick smoke that prevents one from looking down the barrel, loud .22 rimfire like bang) to light dieseling (tiny bit of smoke in the barrel with barely noticeable recoil. Maybe I should try some citrus cleaner?
If a little is good, less is better!!Sage advice right there^
Bought a 95 a few months ago. Shot about 2500 pellets through it with only minor dieseling during the first 100 shots. Purchased a vortek kit and installed it using the grease they supplied in the kit. The rifle kept dieseling past 250 shots so I bought some krytox 205 and cleaned out the gun again with brake cleaner followed by multiple paper towels on a rod and finished off with some simple green. Rifle still dieseled after 100 shots. Took it apart again and cleaned out all the krytox at the piston and chamber that was brownish white. Reapplied Krytox and assembled the gun but it's still dieseling after 150 shots. I took out the breech seal and washed it with soap and cleaned the breech seal cutout. I'm out of ideas. Can grease get in the forks? Are the forks hollow? Is there anything better to degrease with than brake cleaner? Maybe I should soak the fork/breech/chamber in brake cleaner? I soaked it in simple green when I first started this whole vortek install. Any insight into the issue would be greatly appreciated, I'm kinda losing my mind here :oI recently took delivery of a $299+shipping HW95 and was surprised that it had no dieseling from shot one but perhaps mine was unusual.
I should mention the dieseling varies from strong (thick smoke that prevents one from looking down the barrel, loud .22 rimfire like bang) to light dieseling (tiny bit of smoke in the barrel with barely noticeable recoil. Maybe I should try some citrus cleaner?
I really don't KNOW why excess "petro lubes" are migrating past your piston seal but that is the reason for your dieseling. Actually, I don't know how much of an issue minor dieseling would be other than affecting the consistency of velocity (I'm assuming that you aren't getting detonation).
A couple questions......
*Have you chronied a shot string to see how much velocity variation there is? I personally like "single digit" velocity spreads but depending on the pellet it could be more and still be accurate.
*More important than "velocity consistency" is the gun grouping well? LOL.....as long as the pellets land close together at 50 yards (for me about 1"ctc is close together enough when shooting from "bucket and sticks"), I really could care less what the velocity spread happens to be!
What is the weight of the pellets you are using, if they are light pellets by putting in the Vortek kit you may have gained some fps over stock. The sound you hear could be the pellet breaking the sound barrier, try heavier pellets if that is the case.
Detonation is an audible "bang" with elevated velocity. Dieseling is simply "smoke in the hole" and the Greyhound bus stop smell afterward. If you're talking a .22 cal HW95 it's highly unlikely that you're getting "sound barrier breaking velocities" unless you squirted oil directly through the transfer port. After mentioning this I remembered a little mishap I had when using molly paste to lube my .20 cal R9 piston and piston seal. I must have inadvertently squeegeed a wad of molly paste in front of the piston seal from the receiver after lubing. I took a shot over the chrony and there was a MIGHTY BANG which sent an 11.5 grain Beeman FTS pellet over the sensors at 1250fps.......plus that single detonation snapped the brand new aftermarket spring I had installed!!!I really don't KNOW why excess "petro lubes" are migrating past your piston seal but that is the reason for your dieseling. Actually, I don't know how much of an issue minor dieseling would be other than affecting the consistency of velocity (I'm assuming that you aren't getting detonation).
I don't have enough experience with air rifles to identify detonation or minor dieseling. Considering how every 1/15 shots fill the barrel half full of smoke, I suspect that might be detonation.A couple questions......
*Have you chronied a shot string to see how much velocity variation there is? I personally like "single digit" velocity spreads but depending on the pellet it could be more and still be accurate.
*More important than "velocity consistency" is the gun grouping well? LOL.....as long as the pellets land close together at 50 yards (for me about 1"ctc is close together enough when shooting from "bucket and sticks"), I really could care less what the velocity spread happens to be!
I haven't pulled the chrony out yet, I won't have time till the weekend but I will report back with the results. My main concern with the dieseling issue is disturbing the neighbors with what sometimes sounds like a .22 rimfire. For now I'm shooting in my garage. I will try to put 500 more pellets down the barrel before I take the rifle apart for inspection.
If you use a moly type lube be sure it's at least sixty percent moly. Krytox works well, too. Do not mix them or put one after the other without thorough cleaning. That results in essentially no lube. They are not compatible with each other.
If you use a moly type lube be sure it's at least sixty percent moly. Krytox works well, too. Do not mix them or put one after the other without thorough cleaning. That results in essentially no lube. They are not compatible with each other.
I know they are not compatible in that one is mineral based and the other synthetic, but to suggest it completely nullifies all lube properties is the part I don't understand.
They may not mix well but they are both fine lubricants. Every lubricant or liquid that I have seen that are not compatible, separates eventually (like oil and water) but I don't understand what would kill off the lubricant properties of molly and Krytox?
H&N FTT 14.66gr
It's still dieseling but I suppose it's not serious if the average spread is <10. Highest I got from 14gr was 740. I've had a few shots with almost no dieseling and I could really feel the benefits of the vortek kit. Hopefully after 500-1000 pellets the dieseling will stop and the recoil will calm down. If it doesn't stop, I guess I will just clean out out the piston and chamber again. |
Had a chance to shoot some assorted pellets through the Chrony. I didn't have enough heavier pellets to generate any meaningful results above 15gr. Here is the 10 shot string of .22 cal 14.66gr
H&N FTT 14.66gr
Shot1 728.7 Shot2 718.0 Shot3 706.0 Shot4 725.0 Shot5 721.9 Shot6 722.5 Shot7 720.4 Shot8 722.7 Shot9 720.1 Shot10 719.8
It's still dieseling but I suppose it's not serious if the average spread is <10. Highest I got from 14gr was 740. I've had a few shots with almost no dieseling and I could really feel the benefits of the vortek kit. Hopefully after 500-1000 pellets the dieseling will stop and the recoil will calm down. If it doesn't stop, I guess I will just clean out out the piston and chamber again.