GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Weihrauch Airguns => Topic started by: Loganberry on August 24, 2015, 11:01:53 PM
-
Hello all. I just received my hw30 and I love it. It is galling slightly but I'm just going to run it as is. The thing I'm really having problems with this the pellet fit. Rws hobby wadcutters are tight but CPHPs are really tight. Some of them won't even fit without fear of crushing them in. I've tried Superdomes and they are quite tight as well. Does anyone have an explanation of what's going on or a thinner brand of lead I can try? I'm a little disappointed in this and I'm worried I'm loosing fps with this situation :( Thanks!
-
Not at all unusual for brands of pellets to fit with varying degrees of tightness in any AG, but see it quite a bit in our HWs. A tight fit is not necessarily a bad thing, but you do have to take more care to get the pellet seated square and consistently the same for every shot
Try going with JSB Exacts, 7.33, 8.44 and so on. These seat, easily and also have traditionally been the pellet brand/model of choice in the HW30S for accuracy, though they are by no means the only ones the gun will shoot. .
-
Agreed. Also, don't try seating with your fingertips or fingernails, which can pinch the skirt. Get a typical disposable ball-point pen, one with a cap coming to a dull point. Use that to insert into the skirt and seat the pellet.
-
Tight fit isn't a bad thing. Do yourself a favor though and buy a bunch of JSB RS 7.33gr pellets. They shoot off the charts out of HW30S. They also, like all JSB pellets, have a thin skirt and easy to insert in the barrel.
On a similiar subject I have seen a handful of post lately where people are noticing their new HWs have a tight bore. My 2 month old HW35E also has a tight bore compared to my 12 year old R11 or my 2 year old HW30S. Maybe they have some new barrel making equipment. My new HW35E shoots great so I am not complaining.
-
Hello all. I just received my hw30 and I love it. It is galling slightly but I'm just going to run it as is. The thing I'm really having problems with this the pellet fit. Rws hobby wadcutters are tight but CPHPs are really tight. Some of them won't even fit without fear of crushing them in. I've tried Superdomes and they are quite tight as well. Does anyone have an explanation of what's going on or a thinner brand of lead I can try? I'm a little disappointed in this and I'm worried I'm loosing fps with this situation :( Thanks!
The HW95 I bought recently also has a rather tight leade when shooting the die lot marked and dated Crosman Premier pellet from the 1250 count box. I made a sizing die to size my CPL heads down to 4.49mm which works really well for that gun, however I do believe that the 8.4 grain JSB Exact pellet would be a better size for my HW95 since they fit rather loose in my R9 which has a looser leade.
Anywhoo.....try the 8.4 grain JSB Exact (I found the 4.50mm size to be more consistent than the 4.52mm size) or the 8.4 grain Air Arms Domes if your leade is rather tight. Both the JSB and AirArms pellets give excellent accuracy from my R9 when they fit the leade properly (I di find a rather large variation in pellet head size for the Exacts) and they do fit considerably looser in the leade than CPLs!
-
On a similiar subject I have seen a handful of post lately where people are noticing their new HWs have a tight bore. My 2 month old HW35E also has a tight bore compared to my 12 year old R11 or my 2 year old HW30S. Maybe they have some new barrel making equipment. My new HW35E shoots great so I am not complaining.
Same for my new HW35E. H&N FTs very tight to seat. Much prefer the Exacts. Like yours, mine is very accurate.
-
Jsb 7.33 and 7.87 or 8.44 are the ticket.... all else = suspect or trouble at best.
as for the FPS, don't sweat it....one, it's a 30. second...till you have been shootin awhile, you don't know how little power you really need. Jus relax and have fun...need help? the GTA family is here.
Enjoy that 30 & Happy shootin!
Petey
-
Agreed. Also, don't try seating with your fingertips or fingernails, which can pinch the skirt. Get a typical disposable ball-point pen, one with a cap coming to a dull point. Use that to insert into the skirt and seat the pellet.
Interesting, did not know that. More opinions please. I have been using fingeltips/thumbnail to seat pellets forever. This will give me another excuse when HOSS and I shoot. (he has been kicking my butt)
-
Agreed. Also, don't try seating with your fingertips or fingernails, which can pinch the skirt. Get a typical disposable ball-point pen, one with a cap coming to a dull point. Use that to insert into the skirt and seat the pellet.
Interesting, did not know that. More opinions please. I have been using fingeltips/thumbnail to seat pellets forever. This will give me another excuse when HOSS and I shoot. (he has been kicking my butt)
Hummmm.....while I never deform a pellet skirt using a fingernail, I too have been "finger tip seating" "for ever" and my misses aren't due to pellet seating!
Years ago I bought a pellet seater like this...........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Pellets/PelletSeater.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Pellets/PelletSeater.jpg.html)
After using it a bit I reverted back to the ole "educated finger tip" for seating pellets because the rounded end of the seater that I used to seat the pellets uniformly would also push the pellet deep enough to cause inconsistent groupings. This was due to the fact that the pellet seater set the pellet head into the rifling a bit which reduced the amount of force to start the pellet moving down the bore. IMHO.....this wrecked the timing of the compression stroke since there wasn't as much pressure built up before the the pellet started moving.
Anywhoo....to each his own and my preference is to seat the pellet with finger tip pressure only.
-
Jsb 7.33 and 7.87 or 8.44 are the ticket.... all else = suspect or trouble at best.
as for the FPS, don't sweat it....one, it's a 30. second...till you have been shootin awhile, you don't know how little power you really need. Jus relax and have fun...need help? the GTA family is here.
Enjoy that 30 & Happy shootin!
Petey
Petey is correct. Crosman pellets have a tight fit because they typically have a larger head size than JSB pellets. The Express and Exact pellets are the way to go. H&N Field Target Trophy pellets are very good, as well.
-
After using it a bit I reverted back to the ole "educated finger tip" for seating pellets because the rounded end of the seater that I used to seat the pellets uniformly would also push the pellet deep enough to cause inconsistent groupings. This was due to the fact that the pellet seater set the pellet head into the rifling a bit which reduced the amount of force to start the pellet moving down the bore. IMHO.....this wrecked the timing of the compression stroke since there wasn't as much pressure built up before the the pellet started moving.
OK, 1 like and 1 dislike, I just assumed most if not all were finger loading pellets.
-
After initial loading with the thumb, a 'sweep' with the flat back of a fingernail (pointer finger works easily) generally seats the pellet flush without deforming the skirts. Depending, of course, on your particular manicure.
Crosman .177 Supermatch wadcutters are small diameter.
Back in the day, I used to size all pellets.
-
Goodness, let me clarify, LOL. I am just like most, using my fingertip. The OP was talking about TIGHT pellets. I've got a couple that fit tight, also. I can get it past the seal ring, but I'm unsure if I am pinching the skirt somewhat, not knowing how much the seal is compressed on closure. That tool the poster picture would seat into the rifling, I suspect. I have been using the blunt tip of a name-brand Sharpie marking pen. It seems to stop short of such depth, due to being so fat (by comparison). Hope that clears it up. ;)
-
Wow these are some good suggestions! Great info here. Looks like I'll be getting some Jsb pellets soon.
-
Goodness, let me clarify, LOL. I am just like most, using my fingertip. The OP was talking about TIGHT pellets. I've got a couple that fit tight, also. I can get it past the seal ring, but I'm unsure if I am pinching the skirt somewhat, not knowing how much the seal is compressed on closure. That tool the poster picture would seat into the rifling, I suspect. I have been using the blunt tip of a name-brand Sharpie marking pen. It seems to stop short of such depth, due to being so fat (by comparison). Hope that clears it up. ;)
Can check the skirt after closing the breech, by reopening it, if you want to know how well your technique works.
The technique I posted works for me on tight pellets.
The rounded end of the Bguy Pell Seat is the most logically used end. Like the Bic pen tube or your Sharpie barrel.
-
My 30S seems to like the JSB express 7.87 best.
-
I have noticed the Crosman pellets seem to be more difficult to seat in some of my guns also. I think, but cannot prove, the lead is somewhat harder in the Crosmans. Do the Crosmans shoot well for you?
Again, this is not proven, but I think the tighter fitting pellets may shoot faster due to needing higher pressure to start them down the bore. Good luck with your HW30s. They are very nice, IMO.
-
My HW30s also seems to shoot the JSB Express Diabolo 7.87 the best.
I picked up some Crosman Premier Ultra Magnum 10.5 at Walmart for just $5 a tin. However they tend to be very tight to load - just as the OP describes - and they shoot horribly. At 100' they shoot 6-8" lower than the JSBs. I'm not sure if it is the weight, or the fact that they fit so tight in the chamber, but they clearly are much slower than the JSB. Sorry, I don't have a crony to give any numbers, but there is no doubt my gun doesn't like the Crosman
-
10.5 gr Crosmans will shoot slower than JSB 7.87 gr due to weight. Too heavy of a pellet for a HW30.
-
I tested a whole bunch of pellets in my FWB300 & RWS54. Some were tighter than others but none were an issue for velocity or accuracy except some heavier pellets in my FWB300 that literally stuck in the bore. Also, pellets coated with copper or brass (whatever the "Gold" coatings actually are) did not do well.
I have the same Beeman Pell Seater that nced posted a picture of. It doesn't work for my straight barrel guns - I don't have a break-barrel in the stable. Beeman build & sold a pellet swaging tool long ago. It would reduce the pellet head and skirt diameter to a constant level. I tried it with no particular success. It didn't help accuracy or velocity but did make some pellets easier to insert.
Both the Pell Seater and the Swaging tool have become almost collectors items but I could be talked out of them if you are interested.
Some pellets, as mentioned above, come in multiple head sizes that help one tune the rifle a bit more. Again, in the limited tests I did, I didn't find it made much difference.
My method of inserting pellets is to use thumb & fore finger to start the pellet and press the pellet into the chamber with my beefy little thumb. On looking into the chamber as best I can, I haven't seen any deformation of skirts.
As nced mentioned, you can make a head swager by finding the correct drill bit size in one of those 119 bit kits that have lettered, numbered, and fractional bits. You can also get metric bits to drill the hole you need. I had to build one when I was making a few .22 Minie Balls for a .22 muzzleloader I have. Pressing the pellet backwards down the bore required reducing the skirt size to less than .22. Seems to work but really jury-rigged as I only wanted a few.
Good luck!
-
A couple decades ago I bought the Beeman sizing dies in several sizes and found that both the pellet head and skirt are sized which didn't seem to help accuracy. I ended up simply using them as a "go-no go" gage for sorting out the pee-wees that plagued the CPLs at around die #7. LOL......I had one box of CPLs at that time that contained 122 "pee wees" and three dozen "free fallers" that literally dropped through the bore of the R9!
Prior to switching from CPLs to the JSB Exacts I got two cases of CPLs that were extremely dirty (excess parting compound I guess) and needed washing, however they were well formed and shot accurately. Still....I tried the JSB Exacts because they were clean and the soft lead alloy didn't need lubing to minimize bore fouling like the CPLs. The first few tins of Exacts fit the lead rather loose but they were an easy to load pellet that was extremely accurate from my R9 so I ordered a bunch more. The "wheels fell off the cart" at a THAGC fun match when I literally had two dryfires due to Exacts flipping out of the leade when latching the R9 barrel and I cought the third that flipped out before shooting it. During that match I hit a paltry 22% of the targets instead of my usual 80% so I thought that the internals of my R9 were damaged by the dry fires. At home I broke down the R9 and found no mechanical issues so I started checking out the Exacts and this is what I found.......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Pellets/HnFtt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Pellets/HnFtt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Pellets/HnFtta.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Pellets/HnFtta.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Pellets/PelletSort2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Pellets/PelletSort2.jpg.html)
After the JSB debacle I decided to make up "D" reamers for making a sizing die to size my CPLs. I made two and one die gives me a CPL with a 4.49mm head (for the new tight breech HW95) and one gives me a 4.52mm pellet head for the R9 and my friend's HW95. The die was made so the pellet skirt was rounded (if a bit oval) and expanded a bit as the head is swaged down a bit. Here are a few pics..........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Accessories/PelletSizerDieReamer.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Accessories/PelletSizerDieReamer.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Accessories/PelletSizerDieReamer1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Accessories/PelletSizerDieReamer1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Accessories/CPLSizer1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Accessories/CPLSizer1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Accessories/Sizer2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Accessories/Sizer2.jpg.html)
Damaged CPL skirt in die.......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Accessories/DamagedCPL%20Skirt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Accessories/DamagedCPL%20Skirt.jpg.html)
"Repaired" CPL skirt.......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Accessories/RepairedCPL%20Skirt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Accessories/RepairedCPL%20Skirt.jpg.html)
I made up these dies for sizing CPLs since they have a rather large head size for a .177 pellet at 4.55mm which, along with the hard lead alloy, makes them very accurate from my HW springers but also hard to seat in the leade with finger pressure. I don't know how many different brands of pellets such a die/ram arrangement would work because the JSB Exacts were already too loose in my R9 leade and the head sizes were rather variable with most being smaller than 4.52mm so I sold the last 9 tins of Exacts I owned and reverted back to the die lot marked and dated CPLs that I had been using for a couple decades previously.
After selling my Exacts here is my latest order of CPLs........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Pellets/CPL%20June9%2015.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Pellets/CPL%20June9%2015.jpg.html)
I size and lube the CPLs as needed marking the boxes with size and an "L" to show that they are lubed..........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Pellets/SizedCPLs.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Pellets/SizedCPLs.jpg.html)