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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Wood Chop Shop (Working with wood) => Topic started by: Can-o-cide on August 23, 2015, 04:38:00 AM
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Here is a fairly fool proof method for making grips.
to start with, take your piece of 1x3 and split it on a table saw. Board A has width 7/16" and board B has width 3/16". Plane a 1/16" off each board, and cut both boards into 5 and 3/8" pieces.
Place a piece of B onto the grip frame, and mark a hole for the screw. Drill it to 1/4"". Do the same with a piece of A, drilling it to 9/64" and countersunk with 5/16".
Gently screw the pieces to the frame and trace out the frame. Cut out the pieces on a band saw. See pics below for a general idea. The piece of B serves as a spacer, which we need because the grip frame has an annoying step in it.
now put glue between the two cutouts and make sure the holes are lined up good and screw to the frame and rotate until they line up to the frame well, then take the cutouts off the frame and clamp. Let the glue dry. After the glue dries, screw the panel to the frame and sand the edges of the panel close to the frame edges. Once it is really close, you can take the panel off the frame and sand a little at a time until it becomes flush to the frame edge. You don't want to accidently sand the frame and take off paint.
the rest us really up to you. I used an orbital sander to do all of the rough sanding, then hand sanded the rest..
just thought I'd share my two piece method for making a grip panel, it is the easiest way to do it, and it is guaranteed to not have gaps around the rear of the grip, which one piece jobs are prone to have. It is a fairly fool proof method if you take your time.
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Looking forward to your pics and how these turn out . Kirby
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Here are some pics of some grips I made out of poplar.
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Here's a pump handle I'm making for my 1322. It has met Mr. Band saw and is awaiting Mr. Sander. To make it, I ripped a piece of 1x material to 1 and 3/4". I then set up the table saw to make a 5/8" deep cut, and took off a blade width, which is 1/8", on either side of the 1x2 I cut. I then took this piece and cut it into several 6 and 1/2" pieces and glued two of these pieces together. This forms a 1/4" dado which fits the pump linkage. The holes are separated by 2 and 7/8" and are drilled 9/64" with a 5/16" countersink. After cuttingng out the shape you see here on a band saw, I am ready to sand. I'll sand out the ledge on the top of the pump arm, and round off the sides. This will make the pump arm fatter on the bottom. I'll sand more material off the sides towards the front than I do towards this rear. This will make an exaggerated oversized fat grip to pump with.
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I do pretty much do it the same way,the front frame inlet makes for a much nicer end result. no hollowness and stays in place,i find that getting the notch where your thumb web is, is very hard to get perfect
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Yes sir it is! I did that part by hand. It seems that the part where your fingers wrap around and where the web of the hand lies is the most critical for comfortable. Also, the bottom is a little important, can't forget how the grips feel to your supporting hand!
I would sand a little, try them out, sand a little, try them out.... At least 200 times. Its important to alternate for one side to the other. If you try to sand one side until it feels right, then sand the other sand, you'll discover the entire feel changes and you may not like it.
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Can o cide... if you make a raw set ready for sanding and staining, i'll buy it. im sure a lot of us would. By the way, you are getting 100 shots out of your 1740??? wow. how did you achieve that? at 5 fpe it would make a great silhouette pistol.
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I have enough material cut and fitted that I was going to finish. I want to sell them. I just accepted a new job offer, so I'll be busy for awhile adjusting to the new job, but I'll still work on the grips. I'm thinking a few sets a month. I also plan to offer pump handles and carbine stocks. I'll keep the products unfinished, and can finish them at the request of the buyer. I'll a few colors available. I'm also going to have a variety of wood. Unfinished products would be sent with drop off pieces so the buyer can sample various finishes before deciding how to finish the product. It'll take me awhile to get the materials gathered and roughed out to where I can just sand and ship.
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NICE! I would really like a foregrip for my 2400 KT. I'll be watching for your notices.
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Fore grips... I didn't think about those...
So I'm thinking
Grips
Fore grip
Pump handle
Carbine stock
Here's the finished pump handle
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Here's the finished 1322
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Forgot to mention this. On the pump handle. No matter how you do it, you are either going to have the pump linkage hitting the tube when closing the arm, which will ding the metal badly over time, or you're going to have wood hitting the tube, which will ding the wood over time. By doing a dado that was 5/8" deep, after sanding the pump linkage barely sticks out of the dado. With this, I'll have linkage hitting tube. It makes an awful sound when the pump arm closes, and it should make you cringe because the metal is getting dinged up a little (its fine to do it a few times, but after a tin of pellets it'd start looking bad). Here is what I did. The linkage hits the tube right at the slot. So you know how they make these things that go on furniture legs, sticky on one side and padded on the other? Well, I took one of those and cut it to size and stuck it to the pump handle and linkage right where it contacts the tube. If this pad ever wears out, I just replace it, it's certainly easier and cheaper than replacing wood or metal. If you discover that this pad holds the pump arm out too much from the tube, which would result in less air getting pumped into the valve, all you have to do either take some material off the padding, or pump it several times and see if the padding flattens a bit. You can also move the pad further out on the pump arm in order to get the arm to close more when pumping. Regardless of the thickness of the pad, you should be able to stick it to a location where the pump arm almost but doesn't quite make contact with the tube.
I get a very satisfactory, padded thump on each pump. Compare this to stock plastic pump handle which in my opinion makes a rather loud smacking sound when you close the pump arm. It may not look fancy it anything, but it sure works well!
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Man, I just love how my pistols feel now. Why didn't I do this sooner? I shot the 1740 today and I dint know if it was the grips or just me, but I was shooting very well. Nothing like a job well done!
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awesome! is the carbine stock going to be an insert to the 1399 or a complete rear stock? im getting this for my hunting 1322 which i have set up as a carbine... your wood grips will give it that classic look...
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The carbine stock would be a classic rifle stock design. It would be a solid one piece butt and connect to the grip at the bottom of the grip. Sort of
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shape. Now, I just need to buy a 2400kt so I can try out foregrips. I was planning on getting one anyway, which I'll mod for power. I would then run s tethered tank on the 2400, and would consider ways for the tank to be incorporated into the stock.
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i got your pics, but the last email made little sense to me... could you rephrase it? I asked about the stock because the only 3 stocks i have seen for the 13zxx and 22xx are the 1399 with wood inserts in the cut out, the design that came on the outdoorsman 2250xe, and the one offered by crooked barn... just wanted to know what you had in mind when refering to the carbine stocks...
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Well, I'm not really sure yet. I can envision a few ways to do it, but I haven't started making anything. What do you think would be best?
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I like the idea of a 1399 like stock, but no cut out. look up the crooked barn 2260 review... i think they had a stock like that.
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I like the idea of a 1399 like stock, but no cut out. look up the crooked barn 2260 review... i think they had a stock like that.
Like this? (My favorite)
(http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Chris-Dowlingcrosman_005.jpg)
or this?
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/37/0c/79/370c79f8b86e470707f14a064135200c.jpg)
or this? (middle one)
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/crosman/9dcdc41a-1742-4217-b911-e785433f0ef5.jpg)
even more...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff95/Line_man01/IMG_3422.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0lWCWbHxOg/T2e9u_f0P0I/AAAAAAAAAkw/DS_ATbZPXUU/s1600/My2250_2.jpg)
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^^ something like that is what I had in mind. The cutout type stocks would be too difficult to sand. I guess it really just comes down to balance. I would think a cutout type would be better with a short barrel and a solid type stock would be better with a longer barrel.
my 1322 with the fat wood pump handle and grips weighs in at 3.1 pounds. It's very solid feeling, very nice looking, beefy pistol. It totally changes the look and feel of the gun. I am really liking it!
I am letting some polyurethane cure on some new grips I made. These grips are poplar with a dark red stain. I think the brown stain made the 2240 unbalanced in appearance, light grips and the rest of the gun black. The 1322 looks good with brown grips and pump handle because the handle balances the grips in appearance. I'm hoping the dark red grips on the 2240 won't create this unbalanced appearance. We'll see. My tablet is acting up, hopefully I can post pics tonight.
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that is exactly the one!!! but if not at least make inserts for the cut out on the 1399 stocks...
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After missing a squirrel twice today with the 1322 due to an odd angle and not being able to get a solid rest, I have decided to make a stock. Below is a pic of a pattern I made. It would be made out of 1x4s. Two pieces glued together. The overall length is 13", which is the full length of the pistol. A 13" stock is a little small, but its comfortable enough. Before I glue the boards together, I will embed a bolt into the wood, sticking out the end that goes toward the pistol. Here is how I will do this.
Clamp boards together and drill a hole right where they meet. So each board will have a groove cut into it. While still clamped together, countersink this hole. Unclamp the boards. At the end of each groove, drill down a bit to make room for a bolt head. Coat the grooves with liquid nails, place bolt into groove, glue the rest of the boards, clamp boards together with bolt sandwiched in between. While clamped together, thread a nut onto bolt and run it down tight into the countersink, the nut should be flush with the wood or a little sunk in and have permanent loctite on it. Let dry. Cut out on a band saw, and sand, then finish. Drill and tap the end cap on the pistol. Thread another nut onto the bolt, then screw the bolt into the endcap . Adjust the free nut until the stock is properly oriented when snugged up. Paint exposed areas black.
it has dawned on me that it is critical to get the bolt exactly parallel to the board. Here is how I plan to do this. In the beginning, I'll measure and mark on the inside of the boards several lines where the bolt will go. I'll drill several tiny holes to a shallow depth on each board. This will serve as a kind of predrilling. Whenever I clamp the board together and drill a hole for the shank of the bolt, the little holes I drilled will help guide the bit and keep it centered and inline. I hope so anyway.
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The above design is for those that want to alternate between pistol and carbine, like myself. The 1399 design mentioned previously would be for those that want a carbine only.
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When I did the grips on my 2240 I put the grip frame and my calipers on the scanner bed and took a photo (a camera shot would work as well). Then I played with image size and printout scale so the actual caliper would match the one in the printout. Finally I printed a mirror image and adhered it to the (inside, or back) side of the wood. All the layout lines and hole locations were right there in the photo, so all I needed to do was cut through the paper.
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I like the idea of a 1399 like stock, but no cut out. look up the crooked barn 2260 review... i think they had a stock like that.
Like this? (My favorite)
(http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Chris-Dowlingcrosman_005.jpg)
or this?
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/37/0c/79/370c79f8b86e470707f14a064135200c.jpg)
or this? (middle one)
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/crosman/9dcdc41a-1742-4217-b911-e785433f0ef5.jpg)
even more...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff95/Line_man01/IMG_3422.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0lWCWbHxOg/T2e9u_f0P0I/AAAAAAAAAkw/DS_ATbZPXUU/s1600/My2250_2.jpg)
Second picture is the one. Sweet and simple.
-Medi
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After ruining about $15 in poplar, I finally made a stock I liked. It's made from a 1x2. I cut one at 13" and the other piece is a few inches long and serves as the butt plate. I cut a square hole all the way through the stock near where it attaches to the end cap of the pistol. I tapped the end cap 10-32, and a 2" piece of threaded rod will be bolted to the stock, with one nut in the square hole and the other nut spacing the stock and pistol. The hardware is undergoing bluing treatment now, with vinegar taking off the zinc plating. I have infinite adjustment to get stock oriented properly once screwed all the way in, andi have about a half inch for a power adjuster if I ever choose to do so.
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In case you're wondering, it took 3 tries to drill the hole for the bolt perfectly straight, and I spent an hour chiseling that square hole. Whenever it's screw in to the gun, it is very solid, perfectly straight with the barrel both from top and the side, and is well balanced and comfortable to use.
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Posting for future reference
Thanks for the help!
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Makes me want to try making some grips...
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Nice work Randy!