GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => American/U.S. Air Gun Gates => Topic started by: Raven911 on July 14, 2015, 12:03:59 PM
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Hello all. This is my first real pellet gun, a Ruger black hawk. I love it. I have a few questions though, this thing is loud, I read that they get quiet once they break in, is this true? Any tips?
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Did you get the supressed version?
How many shots have you fired through it?
Also try cleaning the barrel to get all the assembly grease out of the thing, some goo gone on a couple of patches then a few dry patches and then try again.
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I read that they get quiet once they break in, is this true?
Yes and maybe. "Maybe" The action of the moving internal parts make some noise and may quiet some as it breaks in. "Yes" The oil inside the chamber of new guns explodes under pressure like a diesel engine. That sound will go away. Usually within the first "pure guess" fifty shots. "Tips" Clean the inside of the barrel. Blue locktite barrel and stock screws. Keep rechecking screws, Be safe, shoot a lot, and have fun. Welcome.
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Hello all. This is my first real pellet gun, a Ruger black hawk. I love it. I have a few questions though, this thing is loud, I read that they get quiet once they break in, is this true? Any tips?
Well since this is your first airgun, there are a few things to do to make it more enjoyable.
as has been stated, yes it should "settle down" some with use.
a loud muzzle report is usually attributed to 2 things.
1 - As was already mentioned, it can be caused from "dieseling" or "detonation" of residual petroleum based oils left over from manufacturing. it is always adviseable to do a through cleaning of the barrel with any new airgun. It is generally accepted that using "Non-Petroleum" based solvent is best.
Something like Goo-Gone, (not to be confused with Goof-Off), or any other Citrus Based cleaners are most popular cleaners. Even Simple Green will work to eliminate oils in the barrel.
soaking some bore cleaning patches and pulling them through the barrel until clean in the most common method... followed by a few dry clean patches.
2 - another reason for loud muzzle reports is often attributed to using the super light weight non-lead, alloy based ammo.
This ammo is RARELY the most accurate or consistant, as well as can cause damage to your spring powered rifle due to causing a harsh firing cycle, from over speeding the pellet. (you can break the main spring).
We generally recommend using standard lead pellets, in standard weights for most spring powered air rifles.
This will help in reducing the muzzle report, and be better for your rifle too.
It is also a good idea to check all screws/bolts for tightness often. Including the "pivot screws" where the barrel pivots during cocking.
do as much reading and research as you can to learn more about how your rifle, and "Springers" in general operate. there is much to learn and the fine members here are always willing to assist and provide great advise gained from years of experience.
Enjoy your new rifle, and welcome to the GTA.
We're glad you are here !
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Thanks guys. Mine is the elite version. It has a muzzle break but I don't know if it acts as a suppressor. The ammo I picked up U.S. All lead, a couple 300 rd cross man dial a pellet and a 500 RD Benjamin lead hollow point can. Thanks for the tips. I look forward to reading more.
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... one other thing to note: "lead" is not the only factor. The main concern would be the weight of the pellet.
I have the same rifle, and they are pretty fast. You need to be at least in the 7-9 gr. range to keep the pellet speed down. There are "lead" pellets in lower weights that will go supersonic in that rifle, creating that loud crack like a .22lr.
Good Luck
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The rifle should sound more like a nail gun than a 22lr going off but it is still going to be somewhat loud compared to other guns in that FPS range from what I have read the muzzle brake is more for leverage than sound supression on this model.
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Ok, a few more rounds through it and its gotten quieter. I also picked up a Bushnell scope to replace the one it came with. Why do they even bother putting that &^^& in there? Im trying to dial it in between calls ;-)
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Make sure that Bushnell is air gun rated, as the violent recoiling nature of spring piston air rifles can destroy even high dollar scopes if they aren't designed for it and I'd hate to see that happen.
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Alright my friends, I need help. The bushnell went back, wouldn't zero. I got a nice Nikon 22 scope, as I was dialing it in, of course as I was told, the screws started loosening, so I thread locked them. the scope rings got loose, and when I was tightening them, one of them stripped out. THese were the cheap stock rings that came with the gun. So I literally took them off and chucked them into the woods and got some new rings from walmart, name brand but cant remember which. So I get the windage lined up, and go to drop the cross hairs down to match the impact point, and I'm bottomed out. Can't adjust it anymore. Now the scope has three zero points under the main crosshairs that I can use, but that's not right. Do I need to get taller rings? What gives? I love the scope but I need to be able to line it up. Thanks.
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You may need to shim the forward scope ring or get a mount designed to compensate for barrel "droop". You need to bring your scope adjustments back close to center, otherwise under recoil you could very well damage the scope. Go back the other way until it bottoms out the other way, counting clicks as you go, then back again by half the total you counted. This should get you in the ballpark optical center. Please update us on your progress, and welcome. ;D
Scotty
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thanks. How do I shim it?
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When you adjust your turrets don't go all the way to the end of it's adjustment range , not good for the scope.
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If your point of impact is too low, the rear scope ring needs shimmed. Shimming the front will lower the point of impact.
Put the shim in the ring under the scope.
Many different things have been used for shim stock; I like to use pieces of toothpaste tube. It is hard enough not to smash but soft enough that it won't damage the scope tube.
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If your point of impact is too low, the rear scope ring needs shimmed. Shimming the front will lower the point of impact.
Put the shim in the ring under the scope.
Many different things have been used for shim stock; I like to use pieces of toothpaste tube. It is hard enough not to smash but soft enough that it won't damage the scope tube.
Thanks for the correction Jeff. Whew! Too much coffee today.
Scotty