GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: cclingma on May 24, 2015, 09:20:10 PM
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I see a Ninja SHP 13ci tank in my near future, (QB project). I also thought I recentły read a post about how to build an inexpensive regulator output tester. I can't find that post back.
I do see a on/off valve with gauge on the auction sight that may work? It's $15 or so directly shipped from China, hmm.
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I see a Ninja SHP 13ci tank in my near future, (QB project). I also thought I recentły read a post about how to build an inexpensive regulator output tester. I can't find that post back.
I do see a on/off valve with gauge on the auction sight that may work? It's $15 or so directly shipped from China, hmm.
I originally used one of those on/off's that I got for like $11 then I found a gauge like this (but with an 1/8" connector and on the back not bottom) for $9. Can't seem to find them on there right now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydraulic-Liquid-Filled-Pressure-Gauge-0-3000-PSI-/251941186471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa8dd6ba7 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydraulic-Liquid-Filled-Pressure-Gauge-0-3000-PSI-/251941186471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa8dd6ba7)
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Thanks. That is a much better looking gauge than what's included with the valve.
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Not very fancy I'll admit :-[, but, I made my pressure tester from an extra remote coil hose assembly I had laying around and a 0-3500psi glycerin filled gauge I picked up from Princess Auto, along with a 1/4" NPT - 1/8" NPT reducer adapter.
Like I said...not very fancy, but it works quite well!
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I would eliminate the coil hose to reduce the volume of air vented when testing.... The biggest problem with using the setup shown is that every time you want to change the regulator setpoint you have to dump the large tank.... I use a "tank" consisting of just a drilled and tapped hole in a steel block which has less than 1 CI of volume to hold the regulator.... it wastes a LOT less air....
Bob
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Bob do you have a pic of the tester? thanks
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Here is a brief writeup on a small "tank" that I made a while back for this very purpose. Bob also posted a picture of the one he made.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=73635 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=73635)
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Yeah cclingma,
Working on the very same thing as you. I bought a piece of 1.25" aluminum roundstock, which I will cut to about 6" in length and drill out and tap as mentioned. I purchased a (probably too nice) a gauge on Amazon for $20 and the Top, screw on valve on eBay for $5 (thanks Bob).
Now I just need to buy a 1/8" male (compression thread) to 1/4" female (pipe thread) adapter to fit the gauge and a bleed screw valve 1/8" (compression thread). I could tap one (Top screw valve purchased on eBay) hole to 1/4" pipe thread instead of using a brass connecting adapter, but I don't know if this could easily muck up the valve?
Anyway, total cost coming in about $35.
Should have this done soon, taking my time however, because my (3) QB's have been backordered for (2) months already w/AGD. Since I got them for $87.50 each, not wanting to have 2 separate shipments costing additional $$.
Thanks to Bob/Jason for leading me by the hand on this one .................. Kirk
Will have pics soon.
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Thanks so much for all the info. I'll be looking into a small homebrew tank.
How about that screw on valve for $5?
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Hey Guys,
Working on my version of the Ninja SHP regulator output tester. While I've got the regulator off the bottle, I'm going to change some belleville washers to increase my setpoint from 1200 to 1300 psi. Just need to drill out and thread my 4" aluminum round stock to act the the very small capacity bottle. Also, not real happy with my bleeder valve as yet, not sure the delrin insert will seat properly, a matter of trial & error.
Thanks to Bob & Jason for the extensive help. I never would have considered a QB79 or the pressure tester w/o their modification ideas. I'm happy to be a "Copy Cat".
Here are some pics; the shut off valve / gauge seems a little funky:
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Pressure%20Gauge%20166_zpse9ipma2f.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/Pressure%20Gauge%20166_zpse9ipma2f.jpg.html)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Pressure%20Gauge%20170_zpsbcfzrui7.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/Pressure%20Gauge%20170_zpsbcfzrui7.jpg.html)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Pressure%20Gauge%20165_zpsrkhbllos.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/Pressure%20Gauge%20165_zpsrkhbllos.jpg.html)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Pressure%20Tester%20048_zpse3pe3yjb.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/Pressure%20Tester%20048_zpse3pe3yjb.jpg.html)
Kirk
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Hey Guys,
Got it finished, will test tomorrow ;D
If I don't post again, you'll know what happened ...... boom :P
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Finished%20Tester%20002_zpsavylqt7q.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/Finished%20Tester%20002_zpsavylqt7q.jpg.html)
Kirk
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That looks nice, Kirk. Good job!
Just thinking out loud...if and when I make another one of these, I'm going to do the bleeder screw differently. My current one has a #10-32 screw threaded into the CO2 adapter. I filed a flat where the head comes down and meets it, with a crescent to accept an O-ring placed under the head. When I tighten the screw, the head squishes the O-ring into the crescent "trench" and forms a seal. It works great but was fidgety to make with my limited tools.
Next time I think I'll fit a 1/8" NPT plug opposite the gauge, and make a blind tapped hole in it for a #10-32, then finish drilling through with a smaller diameter bit. Then I'll use the screw to sandwich a plastic seal (disc of Delrin) against the small thru-hole at the bottom of the tapped hole. That should be pretty easy. The only tool needed that is more sophisticated than a hand drill is a bottom tap, and it's easy enough to make one of those from a regular tapered tap if I need to.
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Just thinking out loud...if and when I make another one of these, I'm going to do the bleeder screw differently.
Why not just get an on/off with the de-gas built in
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-FILL-ADAPTER-REMOTE-ON-OFF-DEGAS-WHEN-UNSCREW-AMERICAN-MADE-/271864512239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4c633eef (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-FILL-ADAPTER-REMOTE-ON-OFF-DEGAS-WHEN-UNSCREW-AMERICAN-MADE-/271864512239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4c633eef)
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That picture looks functionally like the one I'm using. The large hand screw gets threaded down to press open the tank's output valve. When you get ready to back it out, the small volume inside the CO2 adapter is still pressurized until you unscrew it from the regulator far enough that the bleeder hole is exposed. At 1200 to 1500psi, that puts a lot of friction on the threads so I am not comfortable with how that would erode the threads through repeated use. Much better in my opinion to vent the pressure before unthreading that connection. I think of the bleeder hole depicted in the photo as more of a failsafe to keep Johnny Careless from taking the CO2 adapter to the forehead if he attempts to disconnect things that are still under pressure.
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That picture looks functionally like the one I'm using. The large hand screw gets threaded down to press open the tank's output valve. When you get ready to back it out, the small volume inside the CO2 adapter is still pressurized until you unscrew it from the regulator far enough that the bleeder hole is exposed. At 1200 to 1500psi, that puts a lot of friction on the threads so I am not comfortable with how that would erode the threads through repeated use. Much better in my opinion to vent the pressure before unthreading that connection. I think of the bleeder hole depicted in the photo as more of a failsafe to keep Johnny Careless from taking the CO2 adapter to the forehead if he attempts to disconnect things that are still under pressure.
Jason - that "hole" is a fail safe for when the valve is taken off the bottle, and has nothing to do with the de-gas function. The de-gas is actually in the knob that turns the flow on and off. Turning clockwise turns the air flow on. Turn counterclockwise to stop the flow, and then continue turning counterclockwise and the valve then de-gases. I have one very similar. It works as advertised. If you look at the one pic he has you will see the "pin" has a "necked down" area. When the knob is turned CCW enough that pin raises and allows the air to escape where the thinner portion is.
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Oh, that's novel! I could not see how it worked based on the photos, and I seem to remember Bob saying he had never seen one that vented via backing off the hand screw. I like the ingenuity. Thanks for explaining.
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Thanks Jason,
It's amazing what you have made with minimal tools ;)
For me, The 7 x 12 Harbor Freight lathe has been a "Godsend" when working in the shop this past year.
Kirk
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Hey BTB,
Mine looks very similar to your picture too (not color though)?
I'm using the same valve set-up Bob did, and he highly recommended the bleeder addition.
Gosh, I would have gladly paid another $3 for the built in bleeder .......... maybe next time. The brass fitting and screw were likely $3 + my time and frustration :P
Thanks
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This is great. You guys have shown folks like me exactly what to do. All I have to do is collect parts and get to work.
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Oh, that's novel! I could not see how it worked based on the photos, and I seem to remember Bob saying he had never seen one that vented via backing off the hand screw. I like the ingenuity. Thanks for explaining.
Mine has "Pure Energy" on the knob. Basically the needle gets inserted from the bottle side and you can see that the "shoulder" is there so that even with the knob completely off the needle can't come out of the body. In the 2nd pic you can see how the air pressure in the body will push the needle up high enough so that the "necked down" portion moves past the oring and allows the air to escape.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=91399.0;attach=123398;image)
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=91399.0;attach=123400;image)
I use this valve for filling my disco from a 2K regulated paintball bottle.
For testing pressure I just use this ASA on/off with a liquid filled gauge in it.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=91399.0;attach=123402;image)
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Clever design, I assume you have not suffered any O-ring failures during the venting process?.... I know that slide-checks are problematic when used on HPA at pressures higher than CO2.... That looks like quite a large diameter pin, how hard is it to unscrew the knob when under pressure at 2000 psi?.... Have you tried it at 3000 psi?.... What is the source?.... Is there a maximum safe pressure rating stated?....
Bob
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Clever design, I assume you have not suffered any O-ring failures during the venting process?.... I know that slide-checks are problematic when used on HPA at pressures higher than CO2.... That looks like quite a large diameter pin, how hard is it to unscrew the knob when under pressure at 2000 psi?.... Have you tried it at 3000 psi?.... What is the source?.... Is there a maximum safe pressure rating stated?....
Bob
It is made by Pure Energy - I got it a while back from Ebay
Haven't tried it at 3K.
Nothing on the valve itself as far as pressure rating but it was "advertised" as a "Remote adapter with 3000 psi hose"
It's not hard to unscrew at all
No o-ring failures so far at 2K.
I did take the coiled hose off and put my shorty on to save air.
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Hey Guys,
Quick Update:
1) Couldn't get the bleeder valve to hold pressure (my bad) :P
2) Used another valve top/head w/o a 2nd side hole for bleeder, just the gauge (no leaks) :D
3) Pumped up system to 200 bar and opened valve, got a 1450 psi reading; then closed valve -> got 1500 psi ???
4) Bled Benjamin pump and opened the 1.8K burst disc to bleed rest of system ;D
Since I won't to doing a great deal of testing, this procedure suits me fine, unless someone mentions a potential problem (Bob/Jason - What do you think?).
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Final%20Guage%20002_zpswbwiwxcs.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/Final%20Guage%20002_zpswbwiwxcs.jpg.html)
Kirk
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Bleeding pressure by backing off the burst disk is something I have done from time to time, but that doesn't mean I'm comfortable with it ;). I just make sure to keep it pointed away from me when I do, and only back it off enough for it to hiss. Here, patience is a virtue. Draining even a small 13ci tank this way takes a few minutes, but to vent the small volume of the CO2 adapter goes quickly as you no doubt noticed. Meaning less motivation to get impatient and back it off too far and send it flying.
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Thanks Jason,
For now, easy does it every time -> in the other direction 8)
Kirk
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If you back off the burst disc a lot, you will probably scratch the seat in the regulator where it seals (copper to aluminum) and you won't be able to achieve a seal, even with a new disc....
Bob
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Hey Bob,
Sounds like fixing the bleeder valve is the cheapest, long term solution ;)
Kirk