GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Weihrauch Airguns => Topic started by: DanD on April 02, 2015, 02:16:12 PM
-
Hi everyone,
What do you use for blade screwdrivers that properly fit the HW30/50/35 forearm screw? I bought a gunsmith screwdriver kit, but the wide bits are too thick and the thin bits aren't wide enough, so they mar the screws.
Thanks for the advice,
-
Dan (in NY)
-
I use the Brownell's gunsmithing screwdrivers for my R11, and while there's not one that's perfect (exactly wide AND thin enough) I go with the correct thickness and give up some side-to-side width.
Another reason I definitely prefer allen-head bolts.
-Paul
-
Wheeler makes a Master gunsmith collection that has a broad range of blade thicknesses and widths. They are all hollow-ground to give a good tight fit. Wheeler also sell the FAT torque wrench designed for use with guns. Brownell's Supply has a great assortment of gunsmithing tools available also.
If you just need the one, are patient, and have a small grinder and files available to you, make one that fits your slots perfectly. This is what most old-time gunsmiths did for each gun they worked on. My uncle had hundreds of special screwdrivers made from Craftsman and any other decent screw drivers to fit many different screws. He also provided a set for each gun when he built them.
Another approach would be to replace the screws with Allen or Torx type screws. I assume they are metric. Ace Hardware stores frequently have a good selection of metric threaded screws. The metric threaded screws are not nearly as hard to find in the sizes you might need as US and British threads.
-
Hi everyone,
What do you use for blade screwdrivers that properly fit the HW30/50/35 forearm screw? I bought a gunsmith screwdriver kit, but the wide bits are too thick and the thin bits aren't wide enough, so they mar the screws.
Thanks for the advice,
-
Dan (in NY)
I've swapped out my R9 slotted screws for allen heads, however......have you tried buying a screw driver with a blade that's a bit large then grinding it for a perfect fit? I do know that some gunsmiths do this for vintage gun fasteners that can't be replaced if the heads are burred up.
-
http://www.amazon.com/CHAPMAN-Piece-Assortment-Midget-Ratchet/dp/B0000WSYYW (http://www.amazon.com/CHAPMAN-Piece-Assortment-Midget-Ratchet/dp/B0000WSYYW)
8)
-
I make 'em to suit . It's the only way I can get a good sure fit in the slot .
I know what you're saying when you talk about 'em marring the screw head .
Nothin looks worse than a shagged screw .
I've always been one to evaluate how long it'll take me to manufacture a special tool for a particular job , rather than hurry the job with the wrong tool , and have it as a vivid reminder forever .
regards Supaflee
-
I use the Brownell's gunsmithing screwdrivers for my R11, and while there's not one that's perfect (exactly wide AND thin enough) I go with the correct thickness and give up some side-to-side width.
Another reason I definitely prefer allen-head bolts.
-Paul
I'm still looking for the Allen head screw size and source for my HW50S and Beeman R7. ???
-
I use the Brownell's gunsmithing screwdrivers for my R11, and while there's not one that's perfect (exactly wide AND thin enough) I go with the correct thickness and give up some side-to-side width.
Another reason I definitely prefer allen-head bolts.
-Paul
I'm still looking for the Allen head screw size and source for my HW50S and Beeman R7. ???
I don't know about the HW50 or R7, but for my R9/HW95 the front stock screws are M5x.8mm thread, the rear trigger guard screw is M4x.7mm thread. I just buy replacements at a Lowes home center with suitable lungth. With the R9/HW95 the large front trigger guard screw is a bit of an odd-ball size M7x1mm thread. For my R9 I lathe turned a M8 socket head cap screw down to 7mm and threaded it M7x1mm. Here is a pic of the home made front trigger guard screw with a factory screw......
(http://www.snapagogo.com/uploads/source/2892014/1413547696_1787178706_NewR9TriggerGuardBolt.jpg) (http://www.snapagogo.com/photo.php?id=59576)Uploaded at Snapagogo.com (http://"http://www.snapagogo.com")
Pics of socket head screws added to my R9.........
(http://www.snapagogo.com/uploads/source/622015/1425472184_648313719_R9StockForks2.JPG) (http://www.snapagogo.com/photo.php?id=67646)Uploaded at Snapagogo.com (http://"http://www.snapagogo.com")
(http://www.snapagogo.com/uploads/source/2132014/1406998324_1775515685_NewR9TriggerGuardBoltInstall.jpg) (http://www.snapagogo.com/photo.php?id=54626)Uploaded at Snapagogo.com (http://"http://www.snapagogo.com")
The point of all this is that whatever stock screw size is on your HW50 or R7 you can probably get a replacement socket head screw at a home center. I know that both Lowes and Home Depot have a board in the hardware section with both threaded and tapped screws for SAE and metric fasteners. Take the screws you have to the home center and see which size tap the screw will fit into. As mentioned, the oddity may be the front trigger guard screw if it's 7mm since that is a rather odd size.
-
I have the big Brownell's set, and have never had a problem marring screws. I put a higher priority on matching the thickness of the slot, and thus often end up using a bit slightly narrower than the head.
I made the interesting discovery that Brownell's heads are not made with the micrometric precision that one might think though! Two of the same size will often be slightly different in thickness. Owning more than one of the "same" size--especially the larger ones--can work greatly to your advantage.
The Wheeler set mentioned is also excellent.
The one I had the hardest time fitting is the big breech tensioning screws on either side of the HW receiver. I made the lucky discovery that the old FWB match rifle tool is the perfect thickness for this slot. Once you get the tension bolt (left side) the way you want it, it's a great thing for holding it steady, while using your screwdriver to sock down the locking nut on the right side.
-
Home Depot, Lowes, and other big boxes have a modest collection of metric sizes. ACE and TRU-Value Hardware stores most often have a pretty good assortment of metric screws in various sizes and lengths. I got really lucky the other day and found an Ace with a whole wall of little drawers of odd size nuts, bolts, and screws. It actually has a display box marked "GUN SCREWS." That won't help you much as the gun screws they had are not metric.
Metric screws, once you find a source, are much easier than some of the weird English screws for example: 1/4"x27thread/inch that are sometimes found on Brit guns.
As noted in the string above if the outer diameter is a bit big you can turn it down on a lathe - if you have one!
Most don't so here is how I do it when I must:
I do have a small drill press so I secure the screw in the drill chuck and use a fine file to remove the necessary amount of excess material. I use a micrometer or calipers to check for fit as I do this. When done, I dip the screw in a bottle of Brownell's cold blue solution several times until the color matches the rest of the gun, rinse with fresh water, dry carefully, and oil the screw to set the blue. This has worked for many different screws for me.
If necessary you can use a hand drill clamped in a vice to do the same thing. It's a bit more risky but can be done.
Another trick to hide my hammer-handed screw-ups is to take an even finer file to the screw head I have buggered to remove the burrs and clean up the slot if I did that bad! I then follow up with the cold bluing process mentioned above.
By the way, cold blue in a bottle is available at most gun shops. I have seen it at the local Walmart too.
******************
Second topic following suggestion of the midget ratchet. Be very careful with that kind of thing. I have not had much success trying that kind of wrench with slotted screws. Allen and Torx are OK but one can over torque a screw with a long lever arm tool. Also using a ratchet-type handle with a slotted screw is very difficult as you need lots of down pressure to hold the screwdriver blade tightly in the slot.
I use the Wheeler Master set that has about 60 different slot and blade width combinations. The heads are also hollow ground to tighten their fit more. Wheeler also makes a torque wrench for use on guns that is quite nice too. You can by the Master set with a torque wrench for about $80 on the Internet.
The best is still to make what you need from an new screw driver that is close but a tiny bit large. Judicious filing will give you the best fit. However, I have never been as good as a good gunsmith so the Wheeler set meets my needs just fine.
Cheers
-
Here's what I use for the pivot screw and nut :
http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-1-3-Screwdriver-Slotted-41586/dp/B00065T9YW (http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-1-3-Screwdriver-Slotted-41586/dp/B00065T9YW)
The HW's with the single fore end screw like the OP was asking about are a strange size. Very wide and thin. I do have a bit that fits the width well and is wider than most other slotted bits though certainly not as wide as the screw head. Works well. I have no idea where I got it. I have looked for this bit but have never found another. So the good news is that they are out there the bad news is I don't know where to get another.
Mark N