GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: Rob112o on March 25, 2015, 01:51:36 AM
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I just purchased this beauty this pass monday. It is in pretty good shape, but you can tell its been used thoroughly. When i first went and picked it up no air in the gun. When i pumped it i could hear air barely hissing out. Gave her a much needed oil bath. Problem solved, but after getting it back home few little issues came up. She wont dump all the air when fired. No matter if its 1 pump or 8 times. Also noticed a slight area of barrel separation from muzzle back 3 inches maybe. So obviously may need to do some welding. Also it needs a good cleaning, almost 50 years of gunk is filling all the crevices. Reason why i didnt notice the separation. It doesn't move at all only when u apply pressure. When its in the resting position u cant see any light through the separation. Bits of this and that inside the air tube where the hammer is. Also suspect this may be the reason for the hissing. Guessing and hoping the valve may have some crude in it.
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Temporary solution until im done cleaning it up.
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Oh here is a pic before i took her apart. She was looking quite nice, but her performance was to sporadic. Id hit dead bull one shot then next shot id be off a 1/4" -2" back to dead bull again.
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Another
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Here is the trigger though covered in a hazy layer of gunk was a dream. I hope its going to stay as smoooooth as i was before i took it apart and cleaned it. If i could get out the hammer without having to remove the trigger. I would have and left it as is.
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See that crude down the air tube on the valve. It was like crumbs, food? May need to get a reseal kit. When i ran some oil down there and cleaned. It was instantly blackened from years of love.
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Mmmmm this was looking....nice. Nice thick gasket of gunk. The previous owner didnt have the steel pin in the right direction. So his set screw was just sitting flush with the pin. I had noticed the pin spinning a little when i pumped.
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The hammer was super sticky. Im thinking this is the $)((# thats causing the rifle not to dump all its air no matter pump count. The end cap had a gasket of crude in the corner. Welp, everything did!
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Congrats to a nice gun!
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Thanks Stefan it gave me something to do during my free time. Here is the piston you can see the gunk all up on it. Before i took it all apart i could tell the cup never came in contact with the valve face. I'm not sure if its suppose to on this model. So if someone with more knowledge with this model can give me some info it would be appreciated.
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All back together. Its still retaining air after i fire it. Not as much as before, but still holding. May need to get the reseal kit from Mac1. Finding an accurate pellet for it has been a struggle. Benjamin hp, nope. CPHP, nope. H&N field target, nope, CP domed, nope. Getting decent groups from Beeman Domed pellets 15.3gr. Of course i have less than 150 of them. What pellet are giving u good groups from your 312's?
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Your fixing up of a 312 and question about pellets got me thinking that I really didn't know how my recently repaired and renewed 312 shoots. Since getting it back together I've had some great times busting cans with my son but I never really put the rifle to the test. After the kids went to sleep tonight I went to the basement to determine my 312's pellet of choice. First I mounted a not so great 4x Centerpoint scope I had as my eyes just won't find enough definition between front and rear sights to try to form a group. I didn't even get the crosshairs lined up nice as I thought this would just be a quick little experiment. Tried JSB 18gr with 5 pumps at a little over 15 yards in the basement. Dang, this thing shoots.
5 shots off bean bags.
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Dang, Jeb, I give you a new toy to play with and you tear it apart. I can't leave u alone for 5 min. Looks like you gots a nice one. Just keep stroking her and she will love you for ever. :-* :-*
Dashing through the snow, OH, wait, there is no snow here, it was almost 90 here today. Never mind. :P
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If the front sight is firmly attached I wouldn't worry about the barrel separation. There was never much solder there in the first place and assuming the front sight is attached well it may have been that way from the factory.
Bryan
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Your fixing up of a 312 and question about pellets got me thinking that I really didn't know how my recently repaired and renewed 312 shoots. Since getting it back together I've had some great times busting cans with my son but I never really put the rifle to the test. After the kids went to sleep tonight I went to the basement to determine my 312's pellet of choice. First I mounted a not so great 4x Centerpoint scope I had as my eyes just won't find enough definition between front and rear sights to try to form a group. I didn't even get the crosshairs lined up nice as I thought this would just be a quick little experiment. Tried JSB 18gr with 5 pumps at a little over 15 yards in the basement. Dang, this thing shoots.
5 shots off bean bags.
Whaaat thats what i was expecting from this little rifle. Thats 5 shots in 1 hole?? I'll get a photo up when i get down to the batcave for some shooting. The Beeman where the best out oh mine but not 1 hole good. May need to invest in these JSB's yet to have any. I was surprised ole faithful, CPHP's, didnt shoot well.
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Dang, Jeb, I give you a new toy to play with and you tear it apart. I can't leave u alone for 5 min. Looks like you gots a nice one. Just keep stroking her and she will love you for ever. :-* :-*
Dashing through the snow, OH, wait, there is no snow here, it was almost 90 here today. Never mind. :P
Yea i didnt have the rifle more than a day before i started opening it up. She needed some loving and i wasn't feeling stroking a dirty tramp.
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If the front sight is firmly attached I wouldn't worry about the barrel separation. There was never much solder there in the first place and assuming the front sight is attached well it may have been that way from the factory.
Bryan
Hey bryan, i may have left it if the front sight was firmly attached. Unfortunately it was loose too. Even when i applied pressure the shift may have been 1/32, but that was enough for me to worry. I wrote couple airgun machinist and they said that it isn't that bad. All said i would have better luck with JB Weld. I also wouldnt have to worry about ruining the valve with the heat oh the torch. It came out good. I'll take a pic when i get down there. Here is a before pic
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Front post separation
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Whaaat thats what i was expecting from this little rifle. Thats 5 shots in 1 hole?? I'll get a photo up when i get down to the batcave for some shooting. The Beeman where the best out oh mine but not 1 hole good. May need to invest in these JSB's yet to have any. I was surprised ole faithful, CPHP's, didnt shoot well.
Yep, 5 shots in a pretty darn small hole. I sat one JSB there by it to try to show off but the picture didn't turn out very good. I'm thrilled. At this distance i don't think i have anything that will best this gun. I bet yours will do it too. How's your barrel crown look?
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If the front sight is firmly attached I wouldn't worry about the barrel separation. There was never much solder there in the first place and assuming the front sight is attached well it may have been that way from the factory.
Bryan
Hey bryan, i may have left it if the front sight was firmly attached. Unfortunately it was loose too. Even when i applied pressure the shift may have been 1/32, but that was enough for me to worry. I wrote couple airgun machinist and they said that it isn't that bad. All said i would have better luck with JB Weld. I also wouldnt have to worry about ruining the valve with the heat oh the torch. It came out good. I'll take a pic when i get down there. Here is a before pic
I used JB Weld on a 310 I rebuilt for the same reason. If you decide to do a complete rebuild/reseal lacquer thinner is good for getting all the goop out of it.
Bryan
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Yea so far it seems to like the Beeman round nose are the best. Though i found some destroyers and wouldn't u know it groups well with them. Looks like i have 2 options now. Yea i still have the zip tie on the front just for added protection.
My crown still has the rifling coming all the way to the end. I q-tipped it out some more yesterday. Little bit oh dirt.
Im gonna have to take it back apart to do a full replacement of valve internals. Still not dumping all the air, could this be a tired valve spring? I left 4 pumps in it last night. When i came down in the morning. There was about 1 pump worth of air left in it.
Question, will the zip tie compress my barrel at all?
Is a new valve spring needed since its not dumping all the air?
Its slowly leaking air, im gonna guess that i need to replace the lead seals?
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Flip side of JB Weld work
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Looking down the pipe
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Looking a bunch better than when you started for sure. My thinking on it not dumping all the air would be more of a hammer spring or sticky hammer still. Is the safety staying up? This could also cause some hammer drag. Just a couple of ideas. I rebuilt my dad's 317 awhile back and it shoots great. They are great little guns for sure.
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Looking a bunch better than when you started for sure. My thinking on it not dumping all the air would be more of a hammer spring or sticky hammer still. Is the safety staying up? This could also cause some hammer drag. Just a couple of ideas. I rebuilt my dad's 317 awhile back and it shoots great. They are great little guns for sure.
Yea when i first opened it up the hammer was covered in something sticky. I cleaned, brushed and polished a few times. The hammer spring was my first thought before i even opened it up. When it was out i pulled the spring apart as far as i could. Looked good, but than again ive never seen a brand new stock spring from this gun. One other issue i forgot about. After i shoot it and then fire it 2 more times to dump all the air. The forearm will swing down. I saw what causes this on another model rifle, but cant think of what was the cure for this issue. Im gonna guess it has to do with either the pump cup not coming in contact with the valve face or the valve spring isnt pushing check valve flush??
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Next time you tear it apart put the valve exhaust spring in a vice and compress it one time until all the coils touch each other. This should make it dump better. I had to do it with my '69 347 even after I installed a new hammer spring.
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On the older Benjamin's there is supposed to be a spring in the pump linkage that helps hold the handle up. The 317 I did didn't have it, could have broken long ago. I adjusted the pump cup up to the face of the valve and it worked. There is a video on Tim's site showing how to install the spring.
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Next time you tear it apart put the valve exhaust spring in a vice and compress it one time until all the coils touch each other. This should make it dump better. I had to do it with my '69 347 even after I installed a new hammer spring.
Ok will do Avator. I wasnt able to take valve apart cause i didnt have The Tool. So when i get it, that will be first thing i do. The man Bgmcgee is letting me borrow it. When i did have it stripped i was cleaning out the area where the hammer goes. When all that oil made its way down to the valve i could see it bubbling slowly in the corner where valve meets wall of air tube. That nut may just be loose, like every screw was. So it may just need to be tightened to stop that leak. Im still going to change the lead washers out. So when Mac1's reseal kit comes in and The Tool i hope i can solve these 2 issues.
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On the older Benjamin's there is supposed to be a spring in the pump linkage that helps hold the handle up. The 317 I did didn't have it, could have broken long ago. I adjusted the pump cup up to the face of the valve and it worked. There is a video on Tim's site showing how to install the spring.
Ohhhh gotcha. Thats what he was up to. Yea i checked it out one night was late so pretty tired. Had no clue what the poop he was doing. Never even cared to watch it again thought it wasn't relevant. Im gonna have to watch it again. Thanks
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Question, not sure the name of it "valve retaining nut"? Where the stock screw goes in and holds stock to the rest of the rifle. I didnt take this part apart when i stripped it. Watched a couple videos and none of them mess with that piece. Does it come out, unscrew, is it 1 piece or several parts?
I didnt want to force it out. Though there was a little play in it. I could tell looking down the tube that it looks like there is a washer on the inside. Is this part suppose to be a bit loose and when i screw it back together everything tightens up?
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No that stand off stays put. I put the tool in the mail today so it should be there Friday at the latest. You'll see the tool has one end that is square and the other is threaded. Use the squqend first to get the nut off then the threaded end screws on the face of the valve. You might have to put something through the holes in the tool and tap on it to get the valve loose. You'll figure it out.
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Gotcha, thanks Barry The Tool came in today. Once i get the boy to bed its time to tinker. Though im still waiting for the kit from Tim.
Ok so its called a "stand off"? Its suppose to have a little play in it too, twist play not up and down? Guess it makes sense once the stock screw goes in it should tighten it right up. I cant wait to see how much black funk comes outta her valve. To be continued...
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Im about to lose my poop. The Tool didnt just smoothly fit. I had to spin it around until i felt it was lined up right than give it several good taps with a hammer. Than id try turning The Tool would than get loose and would tilt. So i than banged it back. Try to turn again The Tool would get loose and tilt. Bang it back on well this time. Tried turning it but nothing. Tried tightening it to see if i could break it free. Nope. Put a steel rod in the hole...nothing. Now i tried removing The Tool, near impossible. After about 5-10 mins trying to remove The Tool. Got emmmm. So now i put several drops down the tube. Hopefully loosen it up.
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That nut should have came right off. In the 312 I did the tool fit fine. This gun was an early 50's model and i know it had never been repaired before I did it. Someone might have stripped the nut beforr on yours. Good luck and hope you get it sorted out. I did see somewhere spare nuts and valve faces for sale still.
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UGH !!! I hate to say this but, that don't sound good. I truly hope it turns out ok for you. Not sure I ever heard the phrase "lose my poop" but, I get the ideal of it.
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Haha, looking down the tube it doesn't look like anyone has messed with it before. Im going off the fact the nut corners look very clean, sharp edges not rounded like someone use the tool carelessly. The rest oh the rifle someone has definitely worked on it. Wood putty on the stock, the pump pin having dents, some of the screws being scratched up. Since I'm going to be replacing the seals and such what can i spray down there, like a penetrator? Or does that stand off have a gasket or o-ring?
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I would hose it down good. It isn't going to hurt anything like you said. Pb blaster works wonders on stuff like that. I just rebuilt a mk1 for a guy on the capof and the piercing pin number n those are a pain to seal. There is a small thin cup in the cap that has to unscrew to get to a oring. It wouldnt budge so I hit it with pb blaster and after an hour or so the cup came right off.
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Maybe a bit of heat?
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Before i went to lunch i put the rifle in the fridge. When i got back it was ice cold. Tapped the tool on and gave it a go. Nope nothing. I'll give it a go with the heat. Im gonna lay it on the roof for a few hours tomorrow. If that fails I'll go get me that PB blaster. If nothing works im going to have to send it to Mac1 unfortunately.
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Slow down and take your time. If you get frustrated sit it down for a day or two. All this talk about banging on it makes me cringe.
Bryan
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Slow down and take your time. If you get frustrated sit it down for a day or two. All this talk about banging on it makes me cringe.
Bryan
I agree... applying heat worries me a little too.
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Why don't you turn it up on its end and soak it in some sewing machine oil for a day or two. It should penetrate it and allow you to get it started.
Bryan
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Yes i dont like taking a hammer to anything old. Even if it is only 6oz. Dont worry guys you can sleep at night knowing i didn't put a torch to it. I just let it sit in the sun for a couple hours. I still couldn't get that valve nut loose. I let it sit upright for a couple days with oil down in there. I was left with only one solution to my problem...Send it away to the Master, Tim. Now i got some free time on my hand 8-12 weeks. So i need a new project, any thoughts? I was looking to get a 2240 and go to town on it.
Barry thanks again for lending me The Tool. I'll have it in the mail soon.
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Yes i dont like taking a hammer to anything old. Even if it is only 6oz. Dont worry guys you can sleep at night knowing i didn't put a torch to it. I just let it sit in the sun for a couple hours. I still couldn't get that valve nut loose. I let it sit upright for a couple days with oil down in there. I was left with only one solution to my problem...Send it away to the Master, Tim. Now i got some free time on my hand 8-12 weeks. So i need a new project, any thoughts? I was looking to get a 2240 and go to town on it.
Barry thanks again for lending me The Tool. I'll have it in the mail soon.
Have you heard anything from Tim? Did he get it apart or took a bigger hammer to it.
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No prob Rob. Darn shame you couldn't get it apart though. Hopefully Tim will which more than likely he will.
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Yes i dont like taking a hammer to anything old. Even if it is only 6oz. Dont worry guys you can sleep at night knowing i didn't put a torch to it. I just let it sit in the sun for a couple hours. I still couldn't get that valve nut loose. I let it sit upright for a couple days with oil down in there. I was left with only one solution to my problem...Send it away to the Master, Tim. Now i got some free time on my hand 8-12 weeks. So i need a new project, any thoughts? I was looking to get a 2240 and go to town on it.
Barry thanks again for lending me The Tool. I'll have it in the mail soon.
Nice to hear you were using a 6oz hammer because you had me a little worried. Tim will fix you up. One thing you may want to consider is having him paint it in the process. It's not expensive if he does it while he has it torn down. 8) Just a thought because I made the mistake of not getting my Steroid Sheridan painted and I sent it back to him with another project to have it done. It isn't cheap to do it this way. :o If you like it the way it is enjoy it but if you have considered painting it get it done now. ;)
Bryan
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Yea i gave Tim a call before sending it. This is the first gun ive sent off to him. So i wanted to see what he wanted me to do before sending it. I sent everything but the stock, safety, and stock bolt. He said it would take somewhere from 8-12 weeks. He had 60, not a typo 60, guns ahead of mine. So now we play the waiting game.
Yea i like the patina look to it. Once u said that i was thinking about it for several days. By the time he gets to it i may have a change oh heart. But i may do it myself either way. Im gonna put some work in on this stock though.
Barry sorry it took a minute i can be a slacker. I sent out The Tool today USPS expected delivery Friday. Thanks again bud.
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Yea i gave Tim a call before sending it. This is the first gun ive sent off to him. So i wanted to see what he wanted me to do before sending it. I sent everything but the stock, safety, and stock bolt. He said it would take somewhere from 8-12 weeks. He had 60, not a typo 60, guns ahead of mine. So now we play the waiting game.
Yea i like the patina look to it. Once u said that i was thinking about it for several days. By the time he gets to it i may have a change oh heart. But i may do it myself either way. Im gonna put some work in on this stock though.
Barry sorry it took a minute i can be a slacker. I sent out The Tool today USPS expected delivery Friday. Thanks again bud.
I hear you but if you want it painted it needs to be done while the gun is torn completely down. I painted my 310 when I restored it. I wouldn't try it unless it was torn completely down because of the over spray and fear of getting paint where it doesn't need to be and having clean it. With it torn down and plugged up you can spray away. I plugged mine with toilet paper stuffed tightly covering everything inside I didn't want paint on. I brought it up because tearing it down and painting it yourself may void Tim's warranty?
Either way Tim will do a great job on it.
Bryan
Bryan
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Nice gun! Personally, there is no way I would paint it. It has taken nearly 50 years to achieve that patina. JMHO. :D
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While im playing the waiting game figured it'd be a good time to start the stock. Clearly the previous owner was a right handed shooter
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The flip side.
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Gave her a good sanding.
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Little more sanding with some 220
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Now earlier i thought that light area on shoulder part where you would rest cheek and area where a righty would rest his thumb. After sanding it down it just looks to be multi colored piece oh stock. Does that sound right or maybe tested something in that area?
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Now earlier i thought that light area on shoulder part where you would rest cheek and area where a righty would rest his thumb. After sanding it down it just looks to be multi colored piece oh stock. Does that sound right or maybe tested something in that area?
I'm going with that was where the cheek was rested.
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Here is the first coat oh Tung oil.
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Flip side. Yea thats what I'm thinking Don. Its almost gone i just did a 2nd coat.
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That stock is going to be really nice when you get it done.
Bryan
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Looking good Rob.
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Ok ive been using Formby's Tung Oil Finish "low gloss". How have the results been for you guys? Have you guys used Formby's or another brand? I just rubbed it down again with steel wool. About to apply the 3rd coat. That 2nd coat took 2 1/2days to fully dry. Came down here this morning on the 3 day finished drying over night. Now ive never stained anything that took a good 2 1/2days. Maybe cause i live across the street from The Bay? Ive also been hand rubbing the oil in.
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I used formby's on a couple of ztockz too. I didn't have a problem with it drying at all. I used lint free rags to apply mine. It couod be the ocean air there that is causing it or the temperature. It was warmer here in the valley.
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Hello, I used Formby's on a couple of my stocks and it took a good 12+ hours to dry. I had a fan and the temp up to 70 deg for it to dry. Also found Steel wool would cut thru it and that was using OOOO. I ended up using 3m finishing pads between coats. I got a real nice smooth finish with 6 coats then waited a week and used Stock Sheen & conditioner by Birchwood Casey. Just take your time and if using Steel wool be sure to use a tack rag between coats.
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Yea Barry i ended up putting the stock in a sauna room. And left a small baseboard heater on. Gets it to dry in 11-12hrs. Yea it gets a nice chill here in the bay. Im on ocean level and my shops on the ground floor.
Yea i ended up picky up the 3M finishing pad. That last coat number 5 looked pretty good with that. I could see between those other coats each coat wasn't getting out the hairline scraps form the steel wool. I was using the low gloss. But it gave a feel of eggshell finish. Kinda like smooth but chalky feel to it?? You know it aint flat, but it ain't semi gloss feel. So i ended up getting the High Gloss and that last coat looks greeeeattt.
Off topic but still about stocks and refinishing them. Has anyone done a refinish on the newer 39x's the American Hardwood stock? I can see i have nice markings, but covered in that dark stain.
Pic is coat 3
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Coat 5 High Gloss. So the light coloring in the stock isnt from wear from previous shooter. I tried to capture it best i can. You can see the coloring change by rings until it goes light. You can notice it by the forestock end it matches.
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Looking real good Rob.
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Yea Barry i ended up putting the stock in a sauna room. And left a small baseboard heater on. Gets it to dry in 11-12hrs. Yea it gets a nice chill here in the bay. Im on ocean level and my shops on the ground floor.
Yea i ended up picky up the 3M finishing pad. That last coat number 5 looked pretty good with that. I could see between those other coats each coat wasn't getting out the hairline scraps form the steel wool. I was using the low gloss. But it gave a feel of eggshell finish. Kinda like smooth but chalky feel to it?? You know it aint flat, but it ain't semi gloss feel. So i ended up getting the High Gloss and that last coat looks greeeeattt.
Off topic but still about stocks and refinishing them. Has anyone done a refinish on the newer 39x's the American Hardwood stock? I can see i have nice markings, but covered in that dark stain.
Pic is coat 3
looking good ;D.
as far as the newer 39x's, I've got a 397PA, that I redid. had that nasty chocolate brown on it. from what I can tell, it's that catch-all " American hardwood ". definitely not walnut. it came out very nice, after I refinished it. it's the bottom gun in my avatar.
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as far as the newer 39x's, I've got a 397PA, that I redid. had that nasty chocolate brown on it. from what I can tell, it's that catch-all " American hardwood ". definitely not walnut. it came out very nice, after I refinished it. it's the bottom gun in my avatar.
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Yea i got that same plain poop brown. Only thing i could find on "refinishing new 39x" the picture quality wasn't good for me to see any detail. The guy complained about it being very blotchy. He had to use a stripper to get the old stain out. Did u go that route or a good sanding? Now what did u use to finish it? Also can u send me some pictures of the 392 to my email? Makingitgreen@yahoo.com it would be much appreciated. Thanks
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"...that catch-all " American hardwood."
Think I read somewhere that it was sycamore.
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"...that catch-all " American hardwood."
Think I read somewhere that it was sycamore.
That could explain the density of the stock. Ok here is coat 6. You can see a few scrapes still from the steel wool from coat 4. So i think 1 more coat should do.
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I sanded my stock down, then used minwax stain,and covered it with polyurethane. these guns hunt, so, I don't get too fancy with the finish. I didn't have any problem with the stain not taking. i'll have to email you those pics, after I get back home. that will be this coming weekend. if you dig back in this gate, you'll find my thread on the 397. there were a lot of pics in there.
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Ok im still sanding. So got another day or 2 to decide which route i take. Here is the 7th and final coat of the 312 stock. I wish i didnt send the forearm off to Mac1.
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Ok im still sanding. So got another day or 2 to decide which route i take. Here is the 7th and final coat of the 312 stock. I wish i didnt send the forearm off to Mac1.
Looks good Rob, now give it 3 or 4 days to dry good. If you smell the stock and it still has a smell it needs more drying time. Then sand it with 2000 wet/dry sand paper. When done you can leave it or buff it to a high shine. It will be nice and smooth whatever way you go.
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Got my 312 back from Tim! Got me a nice bottle oh secret sauce. Smells and taste better than nd motor oil. Had to remove the old JBweld and lay down new. The old came up easily whatever Tim cleaned the gun with had weakened the old JB. Now this was my second crack at it and it looks much better. Well the swinging forearm was fixed and no more slow leak. Only thing was she wasn't dumping all the air. Opened her up and cleaned and lubed. Took a dremel to it and polished up the hammer. I stretched the hammer spring some. Its doing much better, but stil retaining a little air. Anyone know a substitute for it or a size off hand? I also may need to refinish the forearm now? Not to bad oh a difference from buttstock and forearm. More noticeable in person, but i think im gonna hold off. Enjoy it for a bit.
Its great when a business tells you they are really busy. That it will take 8-12weeks before you get the rifle back and it shows up in 6 weeks. Thanks Tim.
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Flip side.
Now time to get some shooting in. I'll get some pics when I'm done.
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Good to see you got her back and in shooting form.
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Its still retaining a little air no matter the pump count. I took out the hammer and gave it a good cleaning and polishing. Looking down at the valve and valve nut, it looks like Timmy had some trouble getting it off too. He angled out that odd shaped valve nut and made it squared. Looks like im going to need to get a stronger hammer spring for it.
She still is very pellet fussy. Had gotten a few new pellets since she was gone. Still the only thing she likes is the Beeman round. The JSB 18.13gr did better than the usual suspects, but still not all 9's on the target. The quest continues for a bulk quantity pellet. Unless someone knows where i can get Beeman round in more than 175ct.
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Robo1120; never used PB blaster on an air gun, but everything else I used it on including a plow blade with square nuts and bolts with 75 years of rust, came apart with ease. Matter of fact I reused the nuts and bolts to keep it original.
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That's a handsome rifle you got their Rob.