GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: RayK on February 20, 2015, 02:13:11 PM
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I got caught up in the frenzy and saw that Mike had 3 left. I emailed him and he said he had two left. I just had to jump on it and sent in my paypal payment. Mike emailed me that I should be expecting a package....
Ray
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Cool beans ... now i sit wishing I had got another :P
Great platform to screw around with, there built like a tank and parts quality is surprisingly good.
Do have fun Ray !!
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Ray,
did you get my message a few days ago ?
We are going to the Goat Farm in the morning.
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Do have fun Ray !!
Thanks Scott! Ultimately, that is why I bought it. I had fun getting my XS60 PCP dialed in and it is finished except for the LDC, so I need a new project.
Ray
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Ray, did you get my message a few days ago? We are going to the Goat Farm in the morning.
Hi Ron! Yes, I had to clear it with my wife, but I will be there bright and early!
For me, it will be more about visiting my airguns brothers than anything else, but I want you all to try out my 70 FPE Marauder with the WAR valve. It is shooting 43.2 grain Eunjins at 860 FPS and it hits very hard. Probably overkill for ground squirrels.... ;-)
See you tomorrow!
Ray
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Well the $180 177 caliber B50 arrived last night and I think I'm really going to like it. The quality seems much better than the XS60C PCP which I noticed Mike now has on sale for $80 shipped.
I can see why the B50/51 airguns have so many fans.
I have not yet shot it, but I will try it out before I fully tune it.
From what I've read, maybe I should order a new delrin valve poppet and just not waste any time using either of the two stock poppets that came with it.
Ray
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Yup, change that o-ring right away. The B50 sellout has caused a flurry of activity here on GTA, so there is lots of information to look at in several different threads.
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Read "The Book", then read restern's posts then reads Motorheads, then get to work! ;)
BZ
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Hey RayK,
I think the OEM and extra poppet supplied by Mike are made out of Nylon or Delrin.
The problem with the BAM's poppet failure (discussed on many threads before), is that it cannot handle the pounding of the OEM hammer with the (Godzilla) OEM valve spring. The OEM valve spring allows no cushioning effect.
So, the single best solution is getting rid of the OEM valve spring with something more forgiving. The Hillman #83 and #86 springs have been shown to work as replacements.
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The ... BAM's poppet ... cannot handle the pounding of the OEM hammer with the (Godzilla) OEM valve spring.
Thanks for all the tips guys! Yes, I've already read "the book" several times and I've read most of what google can find about the BAM or XS B50/B51.
Sadly, I'm a big fan of Godzilla poppet return springs and have them in all my Marauders. It is the second best way to get long, flat shot strings next to regulation. Maybe I'll email Roy at Mountain Air to see if his aftermarket poppets can take the pounding.
Ray
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Yeah Ray,
I have gone with a light weight hammer/spring guide/springs (hammer & valve) and a regulator. Because all massive parts have been removed, the whole system works smoothly/consistently together.
That being said, one last thing I am investigating, is changing my existing (tapered) poppet configuration to something more consistent (as shown by Motorhead). My regulated strings have a higher ES than desired.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Tune12-21-2014008_zps916f7043.jpg (http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Tune12-21-2014008_zps916f7043.jpg)
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Where are you guys getting these hillman springs?
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Local hardware store.
You need to go to more of a Mom & Pop's hardware store where they carry a wide range of stuff, not just the hot sellers.
Kirk
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Is hillman the manufacturer?
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Yes.......
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Well, I got it all apart.
The hammer spring is the same as the Marauder 12.5# spring!
I'm going to leave the valve spring in for now and try the stock Marauder hammer spring.
All the o-rings are brittle and have taken a set, so I'll swap in the "new" ones that came in the little package with the gun.
There was no noticeable burr on the transfer port, so I cleaned the barrel very well with ballistol.
It is raining here today, but I may try to get out to the boonies to shoot it tomorrow if it isn't raining.
Has anyone turned the stock muzzle brake into an LDC - perhaps by adding baffles? It isn't very big, but the Mac1 LDC Tri-5-Ron has on his 22 XS60C is about the same size and yet really quiets it down to an acceptable level.
Ray
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Well, I got it all apart.
Has anyone turned the stock muzzle brake into an LDC - perhaps by adding baffles? It isn't very big, but the Mac1 LDC Tri-5-Ron has on his 22 XS60C is about the same size and yet really quiets it down to an acceptable level.
Ray
Fooled around with the idea coming to conclusion NO VOLUME made less so with baffles and spacers :P
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Will share what I know (and try stay away from anything that might violate the board’s policy).
The knurled end is just knurled, that part is not threaded. It’s glued. Heat and a dowel to drive it off the tube will get it apart.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/BAM51/27cc7d8f-df4b-4824-b33e-aba402633315.jpg)
The long shank on the knurled end cap takes up a lot of volume. As you are going to have to reattach it by glue or set screws (or both if you feel like it) can shorten the shank of that end cap.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/BAM51/8c8ba5af-5bc7-4fd5-94ba-350aa5986114.jpg)
That leaves you with a hole about .508” in diameter (yeah, it’s a little larger that the slightly reduced end that attaches to the barrel) and about 3.5” long (depending on how short you cut the end cap shank and how deep you fit to to the barrel).
Considering the volume and anything internal you might add to that 3 ½” of space, it’s not going to have the volume to slow down a lot of air.
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Got great service from Mike at flying dragon yesterday, just had an air leak on my 4 month old B-50 when the poppet broke, and the valve body cracked. He is sending out a complete new valve on Monday. Have been shooting with a reduced weight top hat and reduced size transfer port for shots in the 750 fps range with 10.35 jsb's. I was really surprised that the valve body cracked through to the o-ring that seals the poppet stem. Was showing off the new rifle to a friend who came over Wednesday for my birthday. Topped off the tank so he could shoot it, and after his first shot it began to hiss. Took the rifle apart after work Friday to find the broken poppet, but didn't think that it would have made the rifle hiss, that's when I found the crack when I looked at it in the sun light. My camera takes pretty good close-ups so sent two pictures to Mike. The valve body must have been machined out of some poor grade aluminum, it doesn't seem like the reduced weight hammer and top hat should have had enough impact to crack the aluminum. I am just grateful that Mike takes care of his customers and carries the spare parts. Good luck getting your B-50 set up Ray, keep us informed of your progress.
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I shot some 10.5 grain pellets Wednesday.
With the Marauder hammer spring, it was far too weak - pushing them around 600 fps, but it was pretty quiet - even with the stock moderator.
Then I swapped the stock hammer spring back in and it was pushing those same pellets just under 1000 fps. The loud crack was very clear.
I had heard video of others shooting their BAM and always heard a loud ping, so I installed one of my M-rod depingers and that worked great.
I've really learned some good stuff from BobSterne's thread and Motorhead's thread about the BAM PCPs, so I'm going back in to do more work...
Ray
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Hey Ray,
Do the pre-load spring mod. in rsterne's post using the Marauder spring. Just screw in (increase) the pre-load until your happy with the velocity. My BAM's are not that loud at about 900/950 fps, but I have also increased the valve/transfer/barrel ports to give me better air flow, requiring less hammer pre-load/hammer strike/noise at a given velocity.
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I got to shoot mine outside the first time yesterday. Ragged hole groups at 25 yards with JSB Monsters. To be honest, I haven't done the mods I've read about. I replaced the bad O-rings, filed the hammer screw so it wouldn't drag, polished the hammer a little, and installed the new poppet in the valve, and set the striker out more. As it is, I get 30 very nice shots !1000-1500spi, at 20fpe, 3.2% ES with acceptable muzzle noise. At this point, I'm ready to put a regulator in it just as it is, just to up the shot count, and call it done!
Oh yeah, I shortened the stock for my stubby arms.
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Yeah Mobilemail,
I believe MartyB kept the original hammer/spring guide and only replace the pre-load spring with the Hammels #152 and replaced the stock valve spring with the Hammels #83 spring. The cost of the springs is about $4. The next mod would be to open all valve/transfer/barrel ports up to 9/64".
With the above mods and a regulator (setpoint 1500 psi) , you'll likely get 60 shots at 900/925 fps.
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I got to shoot mine outside the first time yesterday.At this point, I'm ready to put a regulator in it just as it is, just to up the shot count, and call it done!
Oh yeah, I shortened the stock for my stubby arms.
Smart man! It is important to recognize when you've arrived at the gun you want/need.
I'm 6 foot tall with long arms and the stock LOP is too long for me too. I wonder who they designed it for?
Ray
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Smart man! It is important to recognize when you've arrived at the gun you want/need.
I'm 6 foot tall with long arms and the stock LOP is too long for me too. I wonder who they designed it for?
Ray
(http://www.papeldeparedes.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/kingkong.jpg)
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Congrats Mark. Hopefully you can make the fun shoot in May, maybe I could check it out. Sounds like a nice shooter.
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I have the event on my calendar, no obstacles at this time. I would be happy to share my toys!