GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Evanix Airguns => Topic started by: DragonKiller on February 01, 2015, 12:42:53 AM
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I know there have been other posts on this, or at least advice within other tuning threads...
I found this write up though that made everything a bit more simple and explained, at least for me.
You do have to register in order to see the pictures, but that's a lot of what tied it all together for me.
http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/air-rifles/1896-evanix-tuning-tutorial-blizzard-rainstorm-windy-city (http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/air-rifles/1896-evanix-tuning-tutorial-blizzard-rainstorm-windy-city)
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I know there have been other posts on this, or at least advice within other tuning threads...
I found this write up though that made everything a bit more simple and explained, at least for me.
You do have to register in order to see the pictures, but that's a lot of what tied it all together for me.
http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/air-rifles/1896-evanix-tuning-tutorial-blizzard-rainstorm-windy-city (http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/air-rifles/1896-evanix-tuning-tutorial-blizzard-rainstorm-windy-city)
Those instructions are good but let me make one suggestion. Do not dry fire with out air repeatedly, the hammer will strike the valve body pushing it against the set screws that hold it in place, this could elongate the counter sinks in the valve body allowing it to move forward leading to transfer port misalignment and other problems.
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I know there have been other posts on this, or at least advice within other tuning threads...
I found this write up though that made everything a bit more simple and explained, at least for me.
You do have to register in order to see the pictures, but that's a lot of what tied it all together for me.
http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/air-rifles/1896-evanix-tuning-tutorial-blizzard-rainstorm-windy-city (http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/air-rifles/1896-evanix-tuning-tutorial-blizzard-rainstorm-windy-city)
Those instructions are good but let me make one suggestion. Do not dry fire with out air repeatedly, the hammer will strike the valve body pushing it against the set screws that hold it in place, this could elongate the counter sinks in the valve body allowing it to move forward leading to transfer port misalignment and other problems.
The hammer will actually hit the pin at the probe first (the one that pulls the hammer back). That may then distort and became loose.
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Interesting. My gun, the hammer has the ability to impact the valve body. I know this because I've released the hammer with the valve body held in by hand and felt the bump. Either way something has to give so better not to do it at all. I don't run a valve spring so a dry fire will shoot the valve into the tank LOL. Ask me how I know :) oops!
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Good info - thanks! At this point I've adjusted the trigger as much as I care to on my own. It did involve a handful of dry test fires with no air - maybe 10-20. So if any damage was done - well it's done and I don't notice it just yet. Oh well - good to know for next time though! I'm still waiting for my turn for a Will P. tune up.