GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: emu rider on January 25, 2015, 05:38:57 AM
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Can someone tell me an easy way to polish a seer? there's a couple of small burs on my LGV which might be the reason for the second seer hanging up and not releasing the spring catch. Could I home make something to fit in a battery drill? Or is there something simple I could get from a hardware store, remembering there is gun nothing in our shops?
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tape a piece of cloth to a drill bit , make it long enough to wrap around the bit covering the bit for a couple of layers . use toothpaste for a buffing compound . grind or file off the burr first . the cheap dremel type polishing bits work too
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Be very careful with power tools for this purpose... YES they work and do so quickly. This is the problem corners are rounded and angles changed...
I have had good results with a dremil, felt disc and Flitz...but go easy and slow. you can ruin parts pretty quickly. Air guns parts are cheap, so have spares just in case. ::) ;D
CW
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Thanks guys, I missed your posts! I got a pen and pulled the ink tube out and super glued very fine wet/dry paper to both so that I had a thick and thin tool. Then I put it in my bat. drill, wet it up and slowly buffed out the rough edges and burrs etc. It worked a treat and I've put her back together and it is seemingly working well. It actually felt smoother. I guess time will tell if I'm a worthy gunsmith or not. Thanks again, I'm an airgun loner out here.
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Be very careful with power tools for this purpose... YES they work and do so quickly. This is the problem corners are rounded and angles changed...
I have had good results with a dremil, felt disc and Flitz...but go easy and slow. you can ruin parts pretty quickly. Air guns parts are cheap, so have spares just in case. ::) ;D
CW
pretty much the same thing I do. except I use automotive polishing compound. I also use the felt cone for polishing crowns and breeches.
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Be very careful with power tools for this purpose... YES they work and do so quickly. This is the problem corners are rounded and angles changed...
I have had good results with a dremil, felt disc and Flitz...but go easy and slow. you can ruin parts pretty quickly. Air guns parts are cheap, so have spares just in case. ::) ;D
CW
pretty much the same thing I do. except I use automotive polishing compound. I also use the felt cone for polishing crowns and breeches.
me 3, except I use the Mothers Mag Polish.
If what I am polishing is real rough I start with 400 then 1200 then 2000 grit w/d paper on a small block
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I start by looking for something flat and long in the shop to use as a sanding block. About the smallest I'll use is a popsicle stick. My way of thinking is the longer the block the easier it is to hold a true angle. With a contact cement applied very, very lightly to the block and the paper I make 400, 600, 1200 and 2000 blocks. Hold the part in the vise and use the blocks like you would a file. For final polish I use any number of abrasive cleaners I have collected over the years. One favorite is Semichrome. The only power tools I use are the ones to make the sanding blocks.
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Yeah Guys,
I usually use 320/500/1000/1200 then Mother's polish. I try to keep something hard (metal or dowel) that has the same contour (as part) underneath the paper. You don't want to change any angles. Also, you don't need the part to be absolutely polished (some exceptions) when done, just enough sanding to get the surface smooth/true. Now, the more trigger work I have done, the less material I remove, because you can't help introducing unwanted angles/rounding to parts.
A Pistol Smith I talked to last year (Longehunter too ;)) told me that Professional Tuners use ceramic stones of different shapes/grits the make trigger part adjustments. He said he never takes any more material off than necessary. Since the stones are so expensive (and I ain't no Pro) I haven't taken the plunge.
Kirk
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Something else to remember when doing any metal removal Is hardening. Many of these parts are cheaply made. Polishing too much can and will go right thru any hardening that was done to the parts. Better made parts will be hardened better and deeper so this will be less of a isse but then again better parts means better quality and one may not need to do this work in the first place. ::)
Anyhow, unhardened raw metal parts will give you a ever changing trigger pull. RE hardening is easily done. Search this on line. I quench parts in dirty motor oil after polishing is complete. (I heat the part straw yellow to Orange first) this is a simple surface heat treat and will work just fine for these parts.
CW
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A very fine india/slip stone and shimichrome. the stones are not too expensive, look in the KBC tools catalog etc.. I used to do bench work in tool and die I find it easier to hold angles on sears if I have the stone on the bench and run the part across it. done more by "feel" than by eye.
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I use a ceramic stone I got from Brownells.
A good knife sharpening stone will work too.
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unhardened raw metal parts will give you a ever changing trigger pull.
CW
good point, I bet the disco trigger assembly isn't harden very well if at all. I may do this and it wouldn't take much to do such small parts. a propane torch and small cup of vegetable oil is really all you need.
thank you.