GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: BigTinBoat on January 05, 2015, 06:43:39 PM
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Well I didn't get too far, but I wanted to start with the "easy" stuff first. I drilled and tapped the end cap for a 1/8"NPT fitting. Put it together and I think I have a slow leak at the gauge. I put my bottle that reg is set at 1050psi and the velocity with 9.8 pellets went from 520fps on CO2 (was about 65deg) to 650fps on the HPA. (5.9FPE to 9.2FPE) The bottle I plan to use is set at 1350psi, but just wanted to see what the lower pressure would do. I turned the bottle off and will let it sit a couple hrs to see if pressure goes done.
Can't wait to get inside it. Of course now my Christmas vacation is over and work will get in the way just a bit.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=96810;image)
Just in case anyone is wondering - yes that is a brass nipple, but it is a Hoke Hex with a working pressure of 7100PSI
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Looking good.
Those valves occasionally leak as well. Is this its first use?
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Best wishes for a successful build. At 1350psi, once you get the airflow opened up, you shouldn't have any problem getting heavy .177 pellets going as fast as they have any business going :)
Do you have plans for accurizing the barrel? In my experience, the QB barrels are stellar after some cleanup and breakin time.
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Looking good.
Those valves occasionally leak as well. Is this its first use?
Yes - bought it from FD and shot the 2 carts that Mike put in it that's all. I thought I heard some air around the gauge but I just checked it after 90 mins and pressure seems to be holding at 1050psi. (After pressurizing I turned the valve back off so if there is a leak the bottle won't drain. Will see what it looks like in the morning before I go to work.
Best wishes for a successful build. At 1350psi, once you get the airflow opened up, you shouldn't have any problem getting heavy .177 pellets going as fast as they have any business going :)
Thanks - I figured as much. Been reading a bunch of old posts from the expert converters, yours included. I like the option of an RVA like HappyHunter did to go from like 9fpe to 16fpe with just the change of a screw.
Do you have plans for accurizing the barrel? In my experience, the QB barrels are stellar after some cleanup and breakin time.
Yes - plan to clean up TP and leade. Recrown and then polish bore with mothers to a mirror shine inside. I was shooting JSB's into a single hole at 10m in basement on the CO2.
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I like the option of an RVA like HappyHunter did to go from like 9fpe to 16fpe with just the change of a screw.
Yep, an RVA sure is nice for tuning, no doubt. ES tends to go up when backing off the power a lot but it can be perfectly acceptable considering the usual reason is for shooting at close range. A few weeks ago I completed a .22 conversion for a buddy and dialed it down over half way to about 13fpe for a suburban squirrel hunt. It went 6 for 6 that day at ranges under 30 yards and was just silly quiet in doing so ;D
Yes - plan to clean up TP and leade. Recrown and then polish bore with mothers to a mirror shine inside. I was shooting JSB's into a single hole at 10m in basement on the CO2.
Beautiful! That sounds just right 8)
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This looks killer! I haven't forgotten what we discussed Jason. Looking forward to this fall!
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Well 3 hrs later and still same pressure. I guess what I thought I heard wasn't really air or it would be down some by now. Hopefully in the AM it will still be the same.
It went 6 for 6 that day at ranges under 30 yards and was just silly quiet in doing so ;D
Hopefully with the information you sent me I can make mine just as quiet at 16FPE. ;)
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You're off to a good start, Rob! 8)
Looking forward to the rest of your build and eventual range report...keep at 'er! ;)
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You're off to a good start, Rob! 8)
Thanks Todd - can only hope it comes out performing close to yours.
Well it looks like the gauge is leaking, but I think it is the cheapie ASA. The gauge is not quite "tight" but it won't go in any further or the threads will hit the plunger that comes down and opens the pin valve. Going to order a CP or Empire that they use on PB markers. Ebay has then for like $12-14.
Didn't get too far after work. I did dis-assemble the entire gun and I converted the hollow bolt probe to an extended one and I cut the o-ring slot a bit so that I can get an #003 o-ring on it like the crosman's use. Just need to determine how long to make the probe
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=96848;image)
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that bottle is one heck of a lever to hang off fittings like that.
cheers,
Douglas
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that bottle is one heck of a lever to hang off fittings like that.
cheers,
Douglas
It won't be just "hanging". Plan to support the rear of bottle with something like this
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c59/mtpeakguy/AirGuns/TriggerGroup.jpg)
From this build:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=60375.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=60375.0)
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Thanks Todd - can only hope it comes out performing close to yours.
Trust me, mine is nothing too special at all...Nervoustrigger is "da Man" when it comes to tinkerin' with the QB/AR series! :)
Well it looks like the gauge is leaking, but I think it is the cheapie ASA.
Just guessing here, but maybe try putting a few more wraps of teflon tape on the gauge threads to see if that helps?
Some of those ASA on/off adapters can be troublesome...I've had a couple that leaked pretty good when you were about half way between open and closed (not that you would ever run it at "half way", but still...). No problem when it was either wide open or shut right off, though... :o
Before I found a fellow to make me some reverse tank blocks, I had the same configuration as you on my 2260 (i.e- pipe nipples/elbows) and I too was a little leery about the "hanging" bottle so made a bracket to hold rear of bottle using (at that time) only "cave-man" tools. Certainly wasn't going to win any beauty contest with it :-[, but it served the purpose at the time...nice and rigid.
Your solution will be much more elegant than mine was, but this is what I did:
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g401/windrifle/hpa/m_bottlebracket003_zps6901e897.jpg)
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g401/windrifle/hpa/2260hpa04.jpg)
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g401/windrifle/hpa/2260hpa001.jpg)
Nice work on the bolt probe, btw! :)
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Thanks Todd - you know I've seen that tank bracket before on the net.
I like the reverse bottle as I feel the bottle being supported by the "plumbing" in front, and a bracket in the back is much "safer" then just the ASA tank block "screwed" to the tube.
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Well I got the barrel all cleaned out and a few mods done. Working 10am-6pm sure cuts into my time at home after work. Working 6am-2pm was perfect.
Anyway I wound up picking up a drill press at TSC for $74 so now I'm in business.
Doesn't look pretty , but I got the valve cut out and a seat drilled inside for the longer spring.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97155;image)
Polished up the valve stem and ground a spring seat in the end of it
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97157;image)
Drilled my hammer for the reverse cocking mod. Not sure if I could have done this w/o the drill press
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97159;image)
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End cap drilled and tapped 10-32 for my RVA. Drill press made this A LOT easier
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97172;image)
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Hey Rob, you're coming along nicely! She'll breathe a lot easier now with the ol' sinuses opened up.
So drilling the hammer was fun, huh? ;D How many drill bits did you burn up before you broke through the case hardening? Or did you know to grind a dimple into it first?
Tapping the end cap is a little tedious, too. Here's a tip now that you're done with it, haha! I drill it one numbered bit larger than the normal tap drill size (based on ~75% thread engagement). The part is so thick that you end up with so many threads to carry what is a miniscule axial load of the hammer spring, no need for so much engagement and it makes hand tapping less of a chore.
I'm looking forward to seeing your results! If I'm keeping track, you're pretty close to being ready to reassemble except for the barrel work.
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Hey Rob, you're coming along nicely! She'll breathe a lot easier now with the ol' sinuses opened up.
So drilling the hammer was fun, huh? ;D How many drill bits did you burn up before you broke through the case hardening? Or did you know to grind a dimple into it first?
Tapping the end cap is a little tedious, too. Here's a tip now that you're done with it, haha! I drill it one numbered bit larger than the normal tap drill size (based on ~75% thread engagement). The part is so thick that you end up with so many threads to carry what is a miniscule axial load of the hammer spring, no need for so much engagement and it makes hand tapping less of a chore.
I'm looking forward to seeing your results! If I'm keeping track, you're pretty close to being ready to reassemble except for the barrel work.
Thanks Jason -
Just one industrial quality bit. I took the 4" grinder and made just a tiny flat, you can just barely see it in the pic. I just kept putting real light pressure on the bit and as soon as I felt it getting close to hot I stopped for like 15min to cool down.
I had thought about using the next size up, but figured I shouldn't cut corners. In hindsight I could have just drilled it 1/2" way thru with like a 1/4" bit and only tapped 1/2" thickness. I think that would have been the easiest way. Another thought I had was to rotate the end cap 90deg and then drill and tap top and bottom with 10-32 (like Crosman is) and put the RVA thru the center. Just didn't know how the top of breech would look with a screw up top and I have no luck using cold blue so didn't want to mess that up.
Just waiting for the spring to be delivered, and some time off to get it back together. I think I have everything else de-burred, cleaned and polished.
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Like the idea of adding support to the bottle either by clamping to the air tube or by using the stock for some support. That’s a lot of weight focused on that threaded tubing when the gun is dropped or bumped hard.
Am more of a forward tank guy as I like the front heavy feel, but even with those large diameter blocks/fittings, do take the time to inlet for the tank block, use the screws, and bed them to the stock for support.
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My trigger and sear is all polished up "mirror like" - 320 then 1200 then 2000 then Mothers Polish
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97187;image)
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97189;image)
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Lookin' really good, Rob! 8) Getting close to "trigger time"soon... ;)
Amazing how much easier things can be done even with a simple drill press, huh? Now you just have to save up for a small lathe and there will be no holding you back! ;D
Maybe you already have one, but if not, grab a cross-slide vice for your drill press and you can have a "caveman mill" of sorts like what I was using for the longest time...still use it the odd time as long as high-precision isn't required. Those slots that you cut in your valve for example?...SOOOO much easier (and quicker) than grinding, filing, sanding etc... ;) Mind you, using a press as a "mill" will shorten the life of the spindle/column bearing, but they are cheap and easy to change. Just take light cuts is all.
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g401/windrifle/Misc/m_latheplaying001_zps996a9681.jpg)
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Maybe you already have one, but if not, grab a cross-slide vice for your drill press and you can have a "caveman mill" of sorts like what I was using for the longest time...still use it the odd time as long as high-precision isn't required.
Not yet, but on the list. Most run almost as much as the drill press itself.
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Well I put the valve back into the gun and it's sitting charged with 1000psi to check for leaks.
Will this is sitting I decided to start work on my stock. Picked up a new "2nd" stock from Brett over on the yellow cheap and the work has begun. I wanted a "pistol" grip on my stock and Since I'm left handed a target stock would have done me no good.
So here is my stock as it has progressed today.
As received compared to my "Deluxe". Notice how "flat" the grip is, not good
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97452;image)
After removing some wood
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97454;image)
Getting the "angle" on the top
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97456;image)
First layer of Bondo - done with a gloved hand as learned on google
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97458;image)
2nd layer of Bondo
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97460;image)
Started shaping (needs more filling). Much easier to reach the trigger now. Will be spray painting with Bed Liner once done. As you can see the gauge is even with my tape mark after 2 hrs so hopefully no leaks
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97462;image)
Just a little more "faring" left to do
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97467;image)
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Well I put the parts all back together with the 13ci bottle set at 1300Psi. The 13ci fits a bit better then the 17ci.
I turned the RVA in a little at a time until the pellet shot out and it was 425fps. I was just using my cheapest pellets which are the Winchester 9.8 domes. Kept turning the RVA in a little at a time and the velocity climbed all the way up to a top of 975fps. That's 20.69FPE. I'm pleased.
Once I get the stock all cut and painted I'll check my efficiency. Put a piece of toilet paper over the breech and when shooting it didn't move. The Crosman breech seal must be working.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97570;image)
With nothing on the barrel it does get a bit loud at those speeds.
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Nice work, sir! It feels good, doesn't it?
20fpe in .177 will give you some nice flat shooting. If your barrel is like those I've worked on, you're going to want some JSB and Air Arms in 10.3gr and 8.4gr. I hope to see you showing off some groups in the near future!
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Nice work, sir! It feels good, doesn't it?
20fpe in .177 will give you some nice flat shooting. If your barrel is like those I've worked on, you're going to want some JSB and Air Arms in 10.3gr and 8.4gr. I hope to see you showing off some groups in the near future!
Thanks Jason - feels great, and I couldn't have done it without ya - I have a bunch of the 8.4 JSB's as my 1720T loves them. Just need to get a couple packs of the 10.3's
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Work has kinda slowed by progress, but I'm almost there. I epoxied a 3/8" alum bolt to the end of my bottle and once the stock is dried over night I will drill it so that the bolt will go into the hole and my bottle will be supported at both the bottom and the top.
Here is what my stock looks like now:
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=98097;image)
Compared to what it started as: (a $10 "Standard" 2nd)
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=97452;image)
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looks nice man. cant wait to see it all together
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+1 on Geoffrey's comment. I'm looking forward to seeing your creation all put together...almost as much as I want to see groups!
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looks nice man. cant wait to see it all together
+1 on Geoffrey's comment. I'm looking forward to seeing your creation all put together...almost as much as I want to see groups!
Thanks - you and me both - but the can says don't put anything in truck bed for 72hrs so I'm going to let it hang that long to cure. Plus I will be tied up with work stuff (man I can wait till October for retirement) at least thru Wednesday.
While I was waiting today I did get a chance to go thru my flea market pick-up
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=82190. (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=82190.)
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No time yet to shoot, but I did get it all together and it's holding 1300psi.
The bottom of bottle is supported by an alum rod that I epoxied to the bottle bottom. It fits into a hole drilled into stock. Doesn't move at all
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=98275;image)
Here it is all together. Just have my LDC to add after I test fire to see how it groups
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=98277;image)
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That looks fantastic, Rob!... 8)....well done, sir!
I may have missed it, but how did you cut your radius in the stock for the bottle? I know when I did it to my AR2078 there was a whole bunch of ol' fashion elbow grease involved! Just wondering if you found an easier way... ;).
I have a pretty fair size set of meat hooks and find that the 13 ci bottle makes for a really comfortable forestock. Looks great the way it is, but was just thinking you could always paint the bottle (at least the "fat" section) with bed liner to match the rest of stock for a little more grip.
Now you just gotta get some range time in with your new baby...you've certainly earned it! :)
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That looks fantastic, Rob!... 8)....well done, sir!
I may have missed it, but how did you cut your radius in the stock for the bottle? I know when I did it to my AR2078 there was a whole bunch of ol' fashion elbow grease involved! Just wondering if you found an easier way... ;).
Thanks Todd
The radius wasn't easy. I first cut the main chunk off square. Then I put a ball shaped "cutter" in the drill press and put the stock under it. I had a line drawn about where it should be. Lots of cutting then checking with the bottle. Just left the press retracted and held the stock up under it and put pressure on it.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/11aYDDBy3kL.jpg)
I have a pretty fair size set of meat hooks and find that the 13 ci bottle makes for a really comfortable forestock. Looks great the way it is, but was just thinking you could always paint the bottle (at least the "fat" section) with bed liner to match the rest of stock for a little more grip.
I thought about doing the bottle, but wanted to see what it looked like first. Figured it would be easier to add then take back off. I will likely wind up doing it in the future. The ASA on/off makes it nice that I can just turn it off, shoot the air air of tube and remove the bottle without draining the whole bottle.
Now you just gotta get some range time in with your new baby...you've certainly earned it! :)
Yep - just got like 10 other projects going on and it's snowing here now. Hopefully by the weekend, but it will only be indoors at 10m
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Well my curiosity was killing me. Made the wife some Venison (backstrap) stirfry and then I was able to head back into the basement.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=98280;image)
Set everything up and got my Winny 9.8g domes.
Shot the gun as I had it with just a tiny bit of preload - 222FPS
Turned the adjuster in 1 turn - 382FPS
+1 Turn - 564FPS
+1 Turn - 688FPS
+1 Turn - 807FPS
+1 Turn - 912FPS
+1 Turn - 939FPS (getting loud and can hear the wasted air)
+1 Turn - 950FPS (getting even louder)
Decide to throw in a 7.0 RWS and see what happens
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=98282;image)
So I back it off 2 turns and get out the JSB 8.44's - 5 shots between 944 and 954
I know this is only 10M, but it's shooting like my 1720T at this distance. This group is not cherry picked, it's the ONLY group I shot. Now I can relax and make my LDC while this weather clears. Looks like this gun is going to be a shooter. I think I won the Chinese barrel lottery.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=98284;image)
On a side note I want to thank rsterne, Ribbonstone, nervoustrigger, HappyHunter, John B and rloftus (I think that's everybody)
Without the QB knowledge and experience (and HPA in general) you guys have brought to this forum I would not have gotten the nerve to try something like this.
Thanks Again!
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Fine shooting sir, and congratulations on a job well done!
I see in your future the need to stretch out to greater and greater distances. And it's so much fun ;D
You got a good barrel, indeed, and your accurizing steps are paying immediate dividends.
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Great job Rob! The gun looks very nice. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine!
Roger
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Wow! Really, really nice job!
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Well I had put one of those little spring plungers in my trigger housing but it really didn't give me a distinct stage from 1st to 2nd so I took it back apart and "fixed" it. I chucked up a 8/32 bolt in my drill and filed down the threads where it would slide inside the hole in the trigger housing and made myself one of those 2 stage trigger mods that gets sold on the internet for like $22. While I was at it I filed the blade of my trigger (where it contacts the sear) to a "blade" to reduce friction. I LOVE this trigger now. Breaks like glass!
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=99044;image)
While I was at it I decided to paint my bottle with bedliner to match the stock. I really like the look now. And it's finished. Can't wait for the weather to break so I can get outside. In the basement of sand bags it puts JSB 8.44's into a single hole at 815fps. Turn my RVA in 2 turns and it's spitting them at about 980FPS. It's also my quietest gun.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=99046;image)
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81046.0;attach=99048;image)
I'm real satisfied.
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HappyHunter, is this a QB78??? This pic is what prompted me to actually join this forum! What stock is that? Where does the gun balance? Myself, I am wanting to build something like this, but with aperture sights and maybe without the shroud. I might also try to bring the bottle up a bit closer to the tube as well.
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g401/windrifle/hpa/2260hpa001.jpg)
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;D I have to say this and it is not intended as anything but a compliment you guys that are mod -aholics are incredibly inventive. It never ceases to amaze me what you guys can accomplish with a little imagination and some spare time
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aPpYe.... That is a Crosman, likely a 2260 tube, 2240/50 grip frame and skeleton stock.... modded to accept a regulated bottle.... If you attempt something like that, make sure the regulator has a 1.8K burst disc on the output side, which will restrict the setpoint pressure to about 1500 psi max.... Even then, it would be a good idea to upgrade the valve screws to 10-32 in case the regulator fails and dumps 3000 psi into the gun.... A Disco valve with all 3 mounting screws installed is the minimum needed for safety.... and I'm not particularly fond of the bottle being hung so far below the main tube, and in particular what looks like a pipe nipple between the tank and elbow.... If all the fittings are not rated for the working pressure, with a safety factor to allow for a regulator failure (ie 3000 psi), I wouldn't even fill it....
Bob
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Yeah Guys,
After the latest HPA explosions ....................... Did we ever get to the bottom of "that" :P.
Anyway, the next time I have my (2) QB78/79 HPA conversions taken down, I will add a stronger valve retaining screw (replacing the OEM screw, currently in use) ;)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/Muzzle%20Brake_zpsj6wtutlg.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/Muzzle%20Brake_zpsj6wtutlg.jpg.html)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n227/kirk_schwarz/QB78%20Love%20004_zpsccetil2a.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/kirk_schwarz/media/QB78%20Love%20004_zpsccetil2a.jpg.html)
I've got enough problems on my hands, to add the worry about losing a hand or a Son 8)
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aPpYe.... That is a Crosman, likely a 2260 tube, 2240/50 grip frame and skeleton stock.... modded to accept a regulated bottle....
Hi rsterne, yeah, I have been reading about how people are just getting fittings at the hardware store. I plan on building everything with known pressure ratings... About the stock though, is anything like that available for the QB family? I don't mind having to modify something to fit if I have to, but I have never tried anything like that.
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It seems, IMO, that a combination of embarrassment and commercial survival for the companies.... and on the other side, complacency and/or the fear of getting sued for saying what you really think.... have allowed the threads concerning the three recent failures to die a quiet death.... Hopefully that will not result in another tragic injury or worse, a real loss of life.... I am saddened, but not surprised, that the companies involved have not been directly involved in the discussions.... Perhaps eventually they will present their findings publically, good or bad.... but I won't hold my breath....
Conversely, in both cases here on the GTA, owners have been given the information about suspected modes of failure, and the opportunity to disassemble their own guns and measure the parts of concern, and for the most part either have been so complacent to not do that, or chosen to keep that information to themselves.... Sadly, IMO, that means they will share, if not the blame, at least the shame, should we have a repeat incident.... You don't even need to have, or present, an opinion, to present the dimensions of the parts in question on your guns.... If nothing else, the manufacturers need to know if there are some of their guns/components out there that don't meet their own specifications.... even if they won't tell us what those specifications are.... Silence, in this case, serves no one....
Bob
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So what kinds of failures have occurred recently? I am literally less than one week into my discovery of these regulated guns. I know I have seen people saying that regulators wear out rather quickly, and I want to make sure that component is as solid as possible. Is that what the burst discs are for, to make sure that the air exhausts safely upon failure? Obviously I am a total newbie.
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Two of the failures involved Disco valves that were installed with only one screw instead of three.... One of them also involved the failure of a HiPac at the thinnest point, an O-ring groove.... The third failure was the pressure tube on an FD-PCP departing from the receiver.... All have been well discussed, but no conclusions reached....
A burst disc prevents the output from exceeding the pressure of the disc rating.... so a 1.8K disc will prevent the gun from ever seeing more than 1800 psi.... If the gun is built with a 3:1 safety margin over that figure, which is standard engineering practice, it should withstand over 5000 psi (once) without catastrophic failure....
Bob
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Can we have updates on this rifle???
I love qb platform and what the thinkers are doing with it..
I would like to know if it sits in a closet collecting dust or a daily shooter..
Thanks
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The OP is no longer on GTA so we shan't be hearing from him :)
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The OP is no longer on GTA so we shan't be hearing from him :)
Thanks Jason!!
When i stumble on nice setup like that, i want to compare performance and maintenance to what i have..
Tha valve seal and end cap seal are frequent care in my setup and was wondering if others are encounting the same..
My QB 78 hpa is still one of my preferate..