GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Weihrauch Airguns => Topic started by: PGunner on December 08, 2014, 03:09:20 PM
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Just ordered a Vortec Tune Kit so needless to say it's all apart on my bench cause of a busted spring.(Bummer)
I picked a tube of Green Grease, synthetic polymer Anyone out there ever try this on there gun?
In the looking I've been doing there is Black Tar for the spring and other grease and oil for different parts.
Is the grease and oil used for one part or the other part really that important or can one be used for all the parts?
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Just ordered a Vortec Tune Kit so needless to say it's all apart on my bench cause of a busted spring.(Bummer)
I picked a tube of Green Grease, synthetic polymer Anyone out there ever try this on there gun?
In the looking I've been doing there is Black Tar for the spring and other grease and oil for different parts.
Is the grease and oil used for one part or the other part really that important or can one be used for all the parts?
Hummm.....I thought that when you bought a "Vortec Tune Kit" there was lube already supplied for the assembly so I don't have a clue what "green grease" is and have never used it. Prior to my using the expensive "space age lube" called Krytox (or Ultimox which is the European version) I use dthe "tried and true" Airgun Headquarters supplied molly paste and tar. The molly paste and tar supplied by ARH lubes have been used successfully for decades and are a good option for those preferring "dinosaur lubes"!
The way I applied the "dinosaur lubes" in the past was to strip the compression tube of existing factory grease using non-chlorinated brake cleaner (denatured alcohol will also work) and remove all sharp edges around the receiver dowel pin holes, retainer plug knockouts, and cocking shoe slot since these can cut the piston seal. Then I would burnish molly paste into the walls of the receiver making sure that there were no "lumps" that could be pushed in front of the piston seal since the mineral oil carrier in the paste will diesel under pressure. I would also wipe a thin band of molly paste around the back of the piston seal, the back of the piston skirt, and on the cocking shoe slot. I would then CAREFULLY install the piston with piston seal into the receiver taking care not to cut or slice the edges of the seal. After installing the piston I would cycle it back and forth a few times by hand to distribute a THIN film of molly paste in the receiver.
For the spring I would apply a thin coat of "Maccari Tar" on the spring and spring guide using an artist brush to simply "paint" the coils and guide black (no lumps here). The purpose of the tar is simply to break metal to metal contact between the spring and the piston ID. Keep in mind that with the Vortex kit you have both an inner and outer "plastic" guide so "breaking metal to metal contact" isn't an issue. Also, the Vortex kit I had didn't twang or vibrate after installation so there is no need to slop on a heavy coat of thick tar in an attempt to kill twang. Such excess application of tar is a temporary solution at best and makes the gun temperature sensitive at worst for those that adhere to this practice.
Molly paste (or tar) is also helpful for lubing the spring loaded barrel latching detent, the barrel pivot bolt, and the barrel shims. For the trigger group I don't add any lube other than blasting out the factory grease with RemOil, blowing off the excess, then installing as is.
As mentioned, I use either Krytox GPL224 or Ultimox 226 for ALL internal lubes and Krytox GPL105 oil for the cocking lever linkage rivet which does indeed simplify the lubing process, especially since Krytox/Ultimox won't diesel even if it gets in front of the piston seal.
Hope this helped more than confused!
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Interesting
Thanks