GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: sshewins on November 15, 2014, 12:24:07 AM
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Hey guys, had a question about the 'pin'. I'm using a set/grub screw to lock the valve in place, but I'm wondering if a machine screw (basically a set screw with a flared head) would hold the valve in place better. I put my set screw under the steel breech, but I'm also beginning to think that while it may be overkill, but perhaps a screw on each side of the tube as well. I know it will make it super rigid, but is it necessary? Thanks in advance
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If you're talking about your 2289 then you are fine with the set screw under the breech. More screws would probably be over kill in my opinion plus you dont see the one under the breech. The valve is held in the rear already with the divot or whatever you call it in the tube so the extra screw on top of the valve keeps it square to the pump.
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the front trigger frame screw also helps secure the valve in place .
here's a thread on valve pinning by WyoMan .......
http://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php/topic,10015.0.html (http://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php/topic,10015.0.html)
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Thanks guys. I've looked at wyoman's posts a bunch. Very informative and helpful.
I'm retaining air at 11 pumps. So I'm going pull it apart and hog out the valve, try to get a smidgen more volume. Plus open up the exhaust port and barrel port. Then use the stock trigger spring as the valve spring. See about getting a disco hammer spring, or take a trip to the hardware store and see what kind of trouble I can get into with springs from there. Maybe even a power adjuster for a little bit of preload. That's why I was asking about extra pins, or a slightly larger one for under the breech.
Thanks again
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you can fully compress the stock valve spring to soften it for free and get more pumps without retaining air .
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Or use a trigger sear spring, fully compress it to "set" it, and use that inside the valve for even better results RE not retaining air....
Bob
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When using the trigger sear spring in the valve do you have to cock the gun before pumping? Or is the spring still strong enough to keep the valve closed?
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I depends on the hammer spring and preload.... With a stock 13X hammer spring and stock preload you do not have to cock the gun to pump it....
Bob
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I have wondered and have not tried the sear spring yet.
Thank you, Bob.
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I was going to mention that Mellon makes a Rear Power Adjuster for 13xx guns for $10. + 2. ship.
Since I wasn't sure about the sear spring mod & I didn't want to beat up the gun & have a hard pull cocking by using a heavy Discovery spring, I went with the RPA. I only turn it in when I pump more than 12 or 13 pumps. 80% of my shooting is less than 10 pumps. Although I do like the option of dumping lots of pumps when I want more POWER.
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I have a 1322, and it was retaining air at anything over 6 pumps.
I polished the hammer a bit, added a stainless hammer spring guide (which also preloads the spring by about 0.34"), and lightly lubed everything with lithium grease. Now the gun fully dumps 13 pumps, and only retains a tiny bit of air at 14 or 15 pumps. The piston and valve are original (for now).