GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Evanix Airguns => Topic started by: lightsout on October 25, 2014, 11:16:58 PM
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so i finally got to get to shoot my brand new Evanix sniper today and not even 1 magazine in i run into this this problem.i cock the side lever back and it s locked in that position now. i cant uncock it and there doesn't seem to be nothing visible it the way of the bolt.has anyone experienced this before or know what this issue?if so please chime in if you know how to fix it because i really dont want to go through the headache of sending it back.
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Is the safety on? Mine in .45 won't allow me to cock it if the safety is engaged. Maybe you over-rode what prevents it somehow and it froze it?
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the safety is off, but if i did over ride it is there a quick fix for that
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I tried to reduce the size of this blow-up so I could attach it here. (It blows having a size restriction on images)
It might give you a starting point on locating the problem. If you would like I can email you the full size image.
I haven't taken mine apart to see how everything is connected, so I can't really say if there is a quick fix.
The only other thing I can think of is to call Pyramyd Air and ask for Tyler. He might be able to help, or know someone who can.
Let me know, please, how it turns out.
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That doesn't sound like a fun problem to have at all.
Can you, as you keep a hand on the sidelever pull the trigger and walk the lever back down ?
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I know I've said this a million times,... but I'll say it again :) :)
....get the 10x10 from Pyramyd, it would weed out this kinds of problems, well worth the 10 bucks in my opinion.
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thanks for the print ,im going to look at it and debate on opening it up depending on what customer service from airgun depot tells me.
yea i tried the pull back on the lever and walk it with the trigger and that was a no go .
if airgun depot had that option trust me i would have paid the 10 bucks considering what i paid for the gun LMBO
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Does the bolt move a little bit when moving the lever or is completely stuck? There is a screw (#13 on the drawing) that attaches the link from the bolt to the lever that is known to back out some and cause this problem . Also there is a pin (#23) that connects the bolt to the intermediate sliding thingy and drives the hammer. If this pin is a hair too long it can catch on the hammer when cocked and no allow the lever to close. Turn the gun upside down, tap and jiggle to see if gravity will move it enough to close the lever.
Tom
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Tom knows his stuff :) :)
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well with turning the gun upside down and shaking the gun the bolt is able to close and open again, but now is the problem of the gun not engaging when the lever being cocked.seem like 1 thing after the other. tom you seem very knowledgeable can you walk me through with this next issue. thanks in advance
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When you get it fixed do post us some chrony numbers, I haven't seen any for .50 cal Evanixes yet.
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well with turning the gun upside down and shaking the gun the bolt is able to close and open again, but now is the problem of the gun not engaging when the lever being cocked.seem like 1 thing after the other. tom you seem very knowledgeable can you walk me through with this next issue. thanks in advance
Good that you got on issue resolved but bad another has popped up.
When you say the gun is not engaging do you mean the hammer is not pulled back with the lever? More details please.
Tom
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what i should have said was that the lever has the cocking motion but doesn't cock
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Dumb question not knowing your level of experience. Is it possible the gun is cocked and just needs to be fired? I't hard to see how the the lever can function with out catching the hammer.
Another question. Does the lever pull back without resistance or does it feel like the hammer is being drawn back against its spring but its not catching the sear?
Tom
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i tried to fire it but there's no response,the side lever goes back with no resistance
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sounds like if the gun is still cocked
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The item circled in blue is the hammer guide. In the pic it is in the decocked position. When the gun is cocked it will be all the way to the butt end of the slot.
(http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o553/QVTOM/RainStorm/sinperhammerguide_zps77d529fb.jpg) (http://s1147.photobucket.com/user/QVTOM/media/RainStorm/sinperhammerguide_zps77d529fb.jpg.html)
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here is a pic of hammer guides current position
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Jose, my best guess is that the pin that connects the lever linkage to the bolt and drives the hammer is broken or possibly installed upside down.
Tom
maybe this will help
(http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o553/QVTOM/RainStorm/2178e6b6-440a-4246-afb4-81837a681673_zpsa4a5b2a7.jpg) (http://s1147.photobucket.com/user/QVTOM/media/RainStorm/2178e6b6-440a-4246-afb4-81837a681673_zpsa4a5b2a7.jpg.html)
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lol figures my luck. well this is why we have warranties and i will be calling airgun depot tomorrow. tom i greatly appreciate all help
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Your welcome and your in good hands, AGD is excellent operation.
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I just compared your pic to my rifle, and your hammer is all the way forward (in fired position).
Does the bolt move a little bit when moving the lever or is completely stuck? There is a screw (#13 on the drawing) that attaches the link from the bolt to the lever that is known to back out some and cause this problem . Also there is a pin (#23) that connects the bolt to the intermediate sliding thingy and drives the hammer. If this pin is a hair too long it can catch on the hammer when cocked and no allow the lever to close. Turn the gun upside down, tap and jiggle to see if gravity will move it enough to close the lever.
Tom
#23 in the diagram is associated with the magazine on my EVP.
If the cocking lever is able to move through the full range of motion, then I would think that one of the linkage pins has fallen out or the pin (#27) that pulls the hammer back when the bolt is retracted has fallen out. Does the bolt move at all/ still connected to the cocking lever?
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yes the bolt is still connected and has full motion now @dv8eod
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At this point, I think I would try to pull the hammer back by the guide pin. Not hard, but enough to see if it will move, in case the pin is broken. You wouldn't want to scratch the wall or jam the hammer where it won't move at all. That might cause the loose/missing/broken part to rattle around enough to fall out. If the part doesn't seem damaged, it's really simple to remove the hammer to inspect it for defects.
That is about the extent to which I feel I can be of any help. I know it blows, but sending it back might be the best option, given the amount paid for it. At least you know the next will be checked out before it's sent to you.
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Yeah definatly send it back if in warranty, they might even find other things that you might miss
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well the ball is in motion and im sending my new toy back.should be about another 2 weeks before i get another one :(
thanks to everyone thats been a help
hows your experience been with your .45 sniper @dv8eod
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well the ball is in motion and im sending my new toy back.should be about another 2 weeks before i get another one :(
thanks to everyone thats been a help
hows your experience been with your .45 sniper @dv8eod
I'd like to know how the .45 is performing also. I watched the PA review and it had the normal falling muzzly velocity that shows the spring is too strong for the fill pressure and it also had some horrible grouping that was hopefully due to the terrible Air Venture ammo.
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I'd like to know how the .45 is performing also. I watched the PA review and it had the normal falling muzzly velocity that shows the spring is too strong for the fill pressure and it also had some horrible grouping that was hopefully due to the terrible Air Venture ammo.
That 45 shot the round ball pretty well. I agree about the ammo, with the right slug, it should be able match the RB performance.
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Outside of it being a beast to pump up, it has done pretty well. Grouping wasn't too bad at approx. 50yds with the air venturi 166gr, but alot of that can be attributed to my shooting it. It actually feels like it has some recoil to it. It's fairly smooth chambering rounds. I am planning on getting the 155gr EPP/UGs that Nomadic Pirate recommended to compare.
Behind the trigger the report doesn't seem too loud to me, but off to the side you really get the effect of how loud it is. I have an idea for quieting it, but I haven't found someone with a lathe to discuss it yet.
There is a video on youtube, done by someone in france who was shooting the .50cal. One of the things he showed was replacing the stock hammer spring with a heavier one. That is something I'm planning on doing also. My wife is going to take a copy of the EVP to a friend of hers to translate the parts listing. Once I get the translation for the hammer spring, I'll see if I can find a heavier one. The guy in the video probably said what one he used, but I don't understand french.
I'm planning on taking it out tomorrow to fine tune the scope. If I can get the range to myself, i'll be trying some 100yd groups, also. One problem that I did notice but was a quick fix, was having to shim the back of the scope. I had tried bore sighting it, but that didn't work so well. When I put pellets on paper, I had maxed out the scope's elevation without realizing it. Do need to adjust the trigger, also. It feels long and gritty at around 6lbs. or so.
To me, the big test will come when I finally find a place to hunt hogs with it.
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I'm willing to bet the guy on the video actually replaced the hammer spring with a lighter one. You can see by the posted shot strings for the gun (PA website) that the velocity curve is on the downward slope and the velocity drops off fast which leads me to believe a lighter spring would actually bring the power up. I had a Max ML bull pup in .357 and my first shot string showed a terrible downward drop in velocity and a low peak velocity. When I backed out the hammer spring I actually picked up over 60 fps on my peak velocity and got a nice 7 shot velocity curve starting at the max 3000 psi fill pressure.
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I'm willing to bet the guy on the video actually replaced the hammer spring with a lighter one. You can see by the posted shot strings for the gun (PA website) that the velocity curve is on the downward slope and the velocity drops off fast which leads me to believe a lighter spring would actually bring the power up. I had a Max ML bull pup in .357 and my first shot string showed a terrible downward drop in velocity and a low peak velocity. When I backed out the hammer spring I actually picked up over 60 fps on my peak velocity and got a nice 7 shot velocity curve starting at the max 3000 psi fill pressure.
Hmm, that was also the case with a local chap who has a X2 .45. Increasing hammer spring tension didn't increase the velocity and the curve was relatively flat. The power was also lower than some other examples posted recently. This was one of the first .45s sold last december, perhaps Evanix has installed different hammer springs in them over the production run.
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OK, so I broke my personal rule #1: Don't see what makes it tick until you have to.
I took my sniper apart the other day to adjust the trigger. I called PA and got the directions from Boris as to how to do it. While I was at it, I checked the spring and hammer to compare against the EVP, and learned that it is really simple. Alot of the parts on paper now make sense.
One of the things was the "thingy" in QVTom's drawing. It is the attachment point that the screw goes through to hold the lever on. It's kind of a filler for the area the hammer moves in. Also, I saw that I really didn't need to take the trigger guard off. There is a small hole in the guard that is a little difficult to get to, but manageable. The complete trigger assy is pinned in with solid pins. I don't have an arbor press, so I didn't mess with any of that.
I also found that part of the "gritty" feeling in the trigger was from grease build up at the sear contact point. I wiped it off the hammer and backed out a little turn on the first stage and barely added a turn to the second stage. (SAFETY NOTE- Adjusting the second stage, hold the lever against the hammer. The adjustment screw is in CONSTANT contact with the sear, and a microadjustment can cause the hammer to go home unexpectedly.) Now I have a decent (IMO) trigger pull.
One thing that surprised me, though, was my lever also locked up on me while I had it apart. I wasn't able to see what was causing it. I had rotated the rifle horizontally and it locked up and I rotated it again to unlock it. There aren't many holes to look through to see where it was hanging up at. After reassembly, it didn't do it again. BTW, it happened while the hammer was removed, so the problem is in the lever assy itself.
@C.ALLS
Here is the target from the range the other day. I was shooting 50yds with a light breeze from 180o-220o, and clear, before the trigger adjustment. Yea, I'm not that great a shot, especially after pumping it up, but I did manage to keep most of them in a 4in square. (Those were at the top of the fill).
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=3215)
At 100yds, I couldn't really tell if I hit the target. Sometimes I would see dust kick up, but couldn't tell where exactly the boolit landed.
@rkr
You may be right about the frenchman using a lighter spring. After thinking about it, a heavier spring would dump more air for less shots, a lighter one for more shots. Until I get my chrony, I'm not going to worry about it for now.
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AGD is 10 miles away from me. They are a class act! Can't wait to hear more about your .50 cal Jose.
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well i got my replacement in on friday and got to the range today.i got to sight it in at 30yds and shes dead on .i need to find a a bigger range to really see what she can do at greater distances.as for AGD they really do have good customer service aside from a little hiccup they did good.
@dv8eod are you planning on swapping out the spring ? if you do let me know about your results and where you found the spring at.
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cool
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well i got my replacement in on friday and got to the range today.i got to sight it in at 30yds and shes dead on .i need to find a a bigger range to really see what she can do at greater distances.as for AGD they really do have good customer service aside from a little hiccup they did good.
@dv8eod are you planning on swapping out the spring ? if you do let me know about your results and where you found the spring at.
I haven't found one yet, but I'll let you know when I get one. I found out the last time I shot it, there was a burr at the transfer port that was shaving a flat spot down the side of the boolit. That was causing it to be a little rough during chambering and prevented a tight grouping at distance.
If you decide you want to smooth out your trigger, it's not too difficult. It is touchy, though. Glad your replacement is working good for you. Keep us posted how it goes. When my chrony gets here, we can compare numbers for the different calibers.
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I had the same problem with my Evanix Sniper today. The lever pin over rode the striker and wouldn't move. It's a pretty simple fix and only took me about 15 minutes plus I got to look at the guts for the first time. While I was there I shortened the striker spring to see if it will level out the shot string some. I hope to have some time to run some shots over the chrony and see if anything has changed.
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Is it the slide or is it the screw that is causing the issue? I had issues with my cocking lever when I got my .357 sniper. Here is a video http://youtu.be/2bQAbHEXfuw (http://youtu.be/2bQAbHEXfuw)