GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: mista meener on August 01, 2014, 10:56:16 AM
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My AT 44 is very accurate but it shoots bigger groups when I put it in an outers varmint cradle which has rubber coated Y brackets that hold the gun and it cant move. When I use the rest with a sandbag it shoots 1/2 inch at 50 yds and over 2 inches in the cradle spraying them. I got a PCP so I would not have this happen. Can anyone explain this? Has it happened to others?
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My AT 44 is very accurate but it shoots bigger groups when I put it in an outers varmint cradle which has rubber coated Y brackets that hold the gun and it cant move. When I use the rest with a sandbag it shoots 1/2 inch at 50 yds and over 2 inches in the cradle spraying them. I got a PCP so I would not have this happen. Can anyone explain this? Has it happened to others?
never had a problem.... is this the thing that you are using? if so are you resting it on the stock or the air tube? If sand bag is working just fine then it has to be the cradle.....cant blame it on the gun if it shoots .500 @50yards
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Yes baxter that is my cradle. Do you have any idea why that happens? It does it every time. Always rest on the forend of the stock.I am using CPHP and CPUM. Like to try JSB's but these shoot good maybe not as consistent . Do you use your outers rest for your AT 44
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Yes baxter that is my cradle. Do you have any idea why that happens? It does it every time. Always rest on the forend of the stock.I am using CPHP and CPUM. Like to try JSB's but these shoot good maybe not as consistent . Do you use your outers rest for your AT 44
No I dont have one I just took the time to look and see what it was that you were using. That does not look as stable as a sand bag in my opinion, I use only what I hunt with which is a tri pod that I modified. So this way I can get very good with it.
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If you still have the barrel band in place the rest may be tweaking the fore arm of the stock applying pressure to the barrel thru that barrel band. I am not sure that it would on the walnut stock but my synthetic stock on my at44 long has enough flex to apply pressure to my barrel. I removed all my barrel bands on my three at44 to eliminate that possibility.
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Hey guys thanks for the replies. you took off your bands? . I would think you are right about the bands. The PCPS must recoil a bit and the way the rest will not allow the gun to move it might torque the stock a little to have the bands twist throwing the shot off.
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You can remove the bands easily it is just a screw thru the stock holding them on and if you ever want them back on you just screw them back in place ;) all you do is remove the air tube which you can do with it pressurized then remove the screws on the bottom side of the forearm that screw into the bands and slide them off the barrel. If you still have the front site on you have to remove it also. I think they look much better with out the bands.
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Yes baxter that is my cradle. Do you have any idea why that happens? It does it every time. Always rest on the forend of the stock.I am using CPHP and CPUM. Like to try JSB's but these shoot good maybe not as consistent . Do you use your outers rest for your AT 44
No I dont have one I just took the time to look and see what it was that you were using. That does not look as stable as a sand bag in my opinion, I use only what I hunt with which is a tri pod that I modified. So this way I can get very good with it.
nice set up baxter. how do you like your BT's
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You can remove the bands easily it is just a screw thru the stock holding them on and if you ever want them back on you just screw them back in place ;) all you do is remove the air tube which you can do with it pressurized then remove the screws on the bottom side of the forearm that screw into the bands and slide them off the barrel. If you still have the front site on you have to remove it also. I think they look much better with out the bands.
Yes I just seen that it would be easy to remove. the barrels are flimsy even with bands. I guess yours are ok. The Att 44 long I would think you would have to be careful not to knock the barrel. this might seem crazy but I will remove one band try it out before I take both off
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I feel it was stronger than my mrods barrel and it is free floating so not to worried. I hit my .177 on my window sill pretty hard in a rush to get a shot and it has an ldc on it but it did not effect the rifle at all and still hit dead on at 60 yds. After that and having no impact on the barrel or poi i dont worry about them any more and seriously doubt having any damage occur during normal use while hunting.
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Yes baxter that is my cradle. Do you have any idea why that happens? It does it every time. Always rest on the forend of the stock.I am using CPHP and CPUM. Like to try JSB's but these shoot good maybe not as consistent . Do you use your outers rest for your AT 44
No I dont have one I just took the time to look and see what it was that you were using. That does not look as stable as a sand bag in my opinion, I use only what I hunt with which is a tri pod that I modified. So this way I can get very good with it.
nice set up baxter. how do you like your BT's
I have not played around with it as of yet, still having fun with the AT44-10, I only tune one at a time. I hink that I am done with the AT44-10 the best that I can get it , is avg 900fps ES12 .175ctc @ 25yards and around .500 @ 50yards and .600@ 73 yards.. I did shoot a can at will at 108 yards with ease. but that is where im at with this gun....I have to spend $800 for a bigger tank to play around with the BT65. I only have a guppy that I take with me in the field. So Im looking for a good deal on a bigger tank, I seen one on ebay for #325 might have to go with that, so far just for the tanks its over $1000. one for the car and one for the field.
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Yes baxter that is my cradle. Do you have any idea why that happens? It does it every time. Always rest on the forend of the stock.I am using CPHP and CPUM. Like to try JSB's but these shoot good maybe not as consistent . Do you use your outers rest for your AT 44
No I dont have one I just took the time to look and see what it was that you were using. That does not look as stable as a sand bag in my opinion, I use only what I hunt with which is a tri pod that I modified. So this way I can get very good with it.
nice set up baxter. how do you like your BT's
I have not played around with it as of yet, still having fun with the AT44-10, I only tune one at a time. I hink that I am done with the AT44-10 the best that I can get it , is avg 900fps ES12 .175ctc @ 25yards and around .500 @ 50yards and .600@ 73 yards.. I did shoot a can at will at 108 yards with ease. but that is where im at with this gun....I have to spend $800 for a bigger tank to play around with the BT65. I only have a guppy that I take with me in the field. So Im looking for a good deal on a bigger tank, I seen one on ebay for #325 might have to go with that, so far just for the tanks its over $1000. one for the car and one for the field.
That is brutal price lol
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yes and if I would have got a FX or some thing I would be in over $6000 how do I explain that to the wife? $6000 for some thing without four wheels :o So now That I will have my air source out the way, if I wanted to buy a FX or Daystate it will not seem so bad.. not saying that I am....I am happy with the Hatsans ;D
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I feel it was stronger than my mrods barrel and it is free floating so not to worried. I hit my .177 on my window sill pretty hard in a rush to get a shot and it has an ldc on it but it did not effect the rifle at all and still hit dead on at 60 yds. After that and having no impact on the barrel or poi i dont worry about them any more and seriously doubt having any damage occur during normal use while hunting.
I took off one band fired it not good not bad. Took off both fired good group but was worried being barrel was able to move around. When I took off the bands one was a lot harder to slide off barrel so I just took off with a round diamond file a little in both bands in both holes. I noticed O rings inside the barrel bands offset and not in the middle. I did not know where they were when I took them off so I kept both towards front of barrel put it all back together and shot 4 shots in a .30 hole at 42 yds. I think relieving the bands and putting O rings both forward did the trick. Who knows if both O rings were offset the same way when assembled
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Was that .3" group from your Outers rest?
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Was that .3" group from your Outers rest?
No I do not think I will be using it. I put and old cotton white sock over each rubber coated y rests and the gun can move. But you are right I should shoot it from the outers rest to see if it is better. it is better since I relieved the bands
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Not the same problem you’re having, but I did do some work on the barrel bands of my first Pneuma that was having a point of impact problem.
Good news: it costs nothing to try.
Bad news: it is a couple of hours of fiddly work.
Idea is that the bands isolate the air tube, so any changes in air pressure/expansion aren’t transmitted to the barrel. Bands are o-ringed to the barrel and to the air tube.
Poor photo, but can see the round “boss” the band fits into down in the fore end and the o-rings on the upper band.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/pneuma/DSCF1195.jpg)
And the way the screws (actually would be bolts) attach to the nuts in the band to draw them down into those bosses:
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/pneuma/DSCF1191.jpg)
Ideally the air tube should be free to be unscrewed and slide in or out without any real resistance, If you have to fiddle around getting the tube lined up to pass though the lower bands, then they are being “tweaked” and that force will be transmitted to the barrel as pressure changes.
So loosen the two screws(bolts) holding the rings to the stock (but don’t take them out yet). With the screws loose, try taking the air tube in and out. Being loose, they should self align.
Sit and fiddle around with the screws that lock the band to the stock. Tightening both equally. And trying that air tube slide-fit. Loosening one, trying for an easy tube-slide into place, tightening the other, etc. Takes awhile. Eventually you’ll have the tube just sliding in and out in alignment with the screws as tight as will allow that.
If you are really glutton for punishment, can swap the barrel bands and go thought the above all over again. Hope being that they align better when swapped (and if luck is with you, they could).
Idea is to end up with the band screws in as tight as they can be AND still have that easy tube-slide-fit. May find that they can’t be tightened equally.
If you end up with the tightest band screw tension that allows the tube to slide in and out freely, but one screw can’t be fully tightened to achieve that slide-fit, whichever band screw is loose indicates the band wants to be set a tiny bit higher to get it aligned. Can cut a thin shim and place it in the round boss that band sits in to get it “up” and allow full tightening.
If it turns out that the tube is in alignment only when one of those band screws is bust-a-gut tight, then sand the bottom of that band’s “foot” so it sits a little lower in its boss.
End up with bands that are locked to the stock and an aligned air tube that is not transmitting random stress to the barrel.
And in fairness, the 2nd HAtsan didn’t show that alignment problem, so I never bothered to fiddle around with it’s bands.
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My AT 44 is very accurate but it shoots bigger groups when I put it in an outers varmint cradle which has rubber coated Y brackets that hold the gun and it cant move. When I use the rest with a sandbag it shoots 1/2 inch at 50 yds and over 2 inches in the cradle spraying them. I got a PCP so I would not have this happen. Can anyone explain this? Has it happened to others?
I have an AT44 and I have an air stripper. I trully believe in them. They are under $30 . I have one of each of my PCPs. I know that yours shot well without. But I personally believe air strippers work.
Their is a high end German gun called Steyr uses a double air stripper and they are very accurate guns.
Be Well,
Gator
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Yes baxter that is my cradle. Do you have any idea why that happens? It does it every time. Always rest on the forend of the stock.I am using CPHP and CPUM. Like to try JSB's but these shoot good maybe not as consistent . Do you use your outers rest for your AT 44
No I dont have one I just took the time to look and see what it was that you were using. That does not look as stable as a sand bag in my opinion, I use only what I hunt with which is a tri pod that I modified. So this way I can get very good with it.
BW,
Is that one of those new "NIGHT SCOPES" on your AT Tact?
Be Well,
Gator
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Yes baxter that is my cradle. Do you have any idea why that happens? It does it every time. Always rest on the forend of the stock.I am using CPHP and CPUM. Like to try JSB's but these shoot good maybe not as consistent . Do you use your outers rest for your AT 44
No I dont have one I just took the time to look and see what it was that you were using. That does not look as stable as a sand bag in my opinion, I use only what I hunt with which is a tri pod that I modified. So this way I can get very good with it.
BW,
Is that one of those new "NIGHT SCOPES" on your AT Tact?
Be Well,
Gator
That is the NV 5.0 that I designed for night hunting rats and such....
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BW,
Very cool scope. Have you seen the one Ted showed on his site he found at the German IWA show. It looked about like yours. They retail for $500, which seems fair for what it does.
http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/ (http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/)
Now Ribbobstone:
I owe you buddy. Thanks for posting the barrel rings segment. I have a new refurb that I hope to zero in today. It just so happens a couple days ago, I unscrewed my air cylinder on that BT to see if it was new as well. I knew the action, barrel, trigger and clips were new. But I forgot to notice if the tank was new.
When I went to slide it back in, it was a good 1/4" too fat to fit back in, I had to press the stock down to get it back in place.
Yes, bells should have gone off when that happened. But I am distracted right now caring for the g.f who just had open heart .
When I saw your post, the lights came on and sure enough, the muzzle and the tank were touching.
I took the screw out, I know the plastic insert on the ring will hold the nut/washer in place. I am hoping to head out an zero the BT and see what I bought. A shooter or a dud. Thanks for your wake up call.
Be well,
Gator
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Not the same problem you’re having, but I did do some work on the barrel bands of my first Pneuma that was having a point of impact problem.
Good news: it costs nothing to try.
Bad news: it is a couple of hours of fiddly work.
Idea is that the bands isolate the air tube, so any changes in air pressure/expansion aren’t transmitted to the barrel. Bands are o-ringed to the barrel and to the air tube.
Poor photo, but can see the round “boss” the band fits into down in the fore end and the o-rings on the upper band.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/pneuma/DSCF1195.jpg)
And the way the screws (actually would be bolts) attach to the nuts in the band to draw them down into those bosses:
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/pneuma/DSCF1191.jpg)
Ideally the air tube should be free to be unscrewed and slide in or out without any real resistance, If you have to fiddle around getting the tube lined up to pass though the lower bands, then they are being “tweaked” and that force will be transmitted to the barrel as pressure changes.
So loosen the two screws(bolts) holding the rings to the stock (but don’t take them out yet). With the screws loose, try taking the air tube in and out. Being loose, they should self align.
Sit and fiddle around with the screws that lock the band to the stock. Tightening both equally. And trying that air tube slide-fit. Loosening one, trying for an easy tube-slide into place, tightening the other, etc. Takes awhile. Eventually you’ll have the tube just sliding in and out in alignment with the screws as tight as will allow that.
If you are really glutton for punishment, can swap the barrel bands and go thought the above all over again. Hope being that they align better when swapped (and if luck is with you, they could).
Idea is to end up with the band screws in as tight as they can be AND still have that easy tube-slide-fit. May find that they can’t be tightened equally.
If you end up with the tightest band screw tension that allows the tube to slide in and out freely, but one screw can’t be fully tightened to achieve that slide-fit, whichever band screw is loose indicates the band wants to be set a tiny bit higher to get it aligned. Can cut a thin shim and place it in the round boss that band sits in to get it “up” and allow full tightening.
If it turns out that the tube is in alignment only when one of those band screws is bust-a-gut tight, then sand the bottom of that band’s “foot” so it sits a little lower in its boss.
End up with bands that are locked to the stock and an aligned air tube that is not transmitting random stress to the barrel.
And in fairness, the 2nd HAtsan didn’t show that alignment problem, so I never bothered to fiddle around with it’s bands.
Thanks Ribbonstone for that very informative post. Would you believe my hatsan does not have the nuts for the screws the synthetic band is tapped for the threads. Much rather have the nuts. I have the pocket in the bands for the nuts and wondered why it was there. Do you think there was a problem with the nuts and they went to other method? I don't think it would be that cheaper to tap the band
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BW,
Very cool scope. Have you seen the one Ted showed on his site he found at the German IWA show. It looked about like yours. They retail for $500, which seems fair for what it does.
http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/ (http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/)
Now Ribbobstone:
I owe you buddy. Thanks for posting the barrel rings segment. I have a new refurb that I hope to zero in today. It just so happens a couple days ago, I unscrewed my air cylinder on that BT to see if it was new as well. I knew the action, barrel, trigger and clips were new. But I forgot to notice if the tank was new.
When I went to slide it back in, it was a good 1/4" too fat to fit back in, I had to press the stock down to get it back in place.
Yes, bells should have gone off when that happened. But I am distracted right now caring for the g.f who just had open heart .
When I saw your post, the lights came on and sure enough, the muzzle and the tank were touching.
I took the screw out, I know the plastic insert on the ring will hold the nut/washer in place. I am hoping to head out an zero the BT and see what I bought. A shooter or a dud. Thanks for your wake up call.
Be well,
Gator
Hey GATOR IF YOU FEEL THAT YOU BOUGHT A DUD, I HAVE A FRIEND THAT IS READY TO BUY THAT DUD, PM IF YOU DECIDE TO SELL.
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BW,
Very cool scope. Have you seen the one Ted showed on his site he found at the German IWA show. It looked about like yours. They retail for $500, which seems fair for what it does.
http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/ (http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/)
Now Ribbobstone:
I owe you buddy. Thanks for posting the barrel rings segment. I have a new refurb that I hope to zero in today. It just so happens a couple days ago, I unscrewed my air cylinder on that BT to see if it was new as well. I knew the action, barrel, trigger and clips were new. But I forgot to notice if the tank was new.
When I went to slide it back in, it was a good 1/4" too fat to fit back in, I had to press the stock down to get it back in place.
Yes, bells should have gone off when that happened. But I am distracted right now caring for the g.f who just had open heart .
When I saw your post, the lights came on and sure enough, the muzzle and the tank were touching.
I took the screw out, I know the plastic insert on the ring will hold the nut/washer in place. I am hoping to head out an zero the BT and see what I bought. A shooter or a dud. Thanks for your wake up call.
Be well,
Gator
Hey GATOR IF YOU FEEL THAT YOU BOUGHT A DUD, I HAVE A FRIEND THAT IS READY TO BUY THAT DUD, PM IF YOU DECIDE TO SELL.
Hello MR, BW
Yeah, I think I got ripped off. I mounted one of my old CenterPoint 4x16x40 Adventurer. The scope had been on my AT44 at one time so I guessed it would not be too far off zero. So see picture 1 for the first 5 ◇◇25.4 JSBs 25 yard site in.(those were shots #43-47 since new so under 50 total shots and spit out that little group.
See picture 2 for best zeroing group of 5 @ 25 yards, the wild pellet was me trying a new trigger hold and Big Clunky has a very light trigger.
Yeah, it's a dud, ♡♥♡♥♡♥♡
I am guessing that with everything new but case and stock for $486 and 90 days Factory Warranty I over paid and that thing wouldn't hit the side of a barn. The worst thing on the BT-65 Elite is the safety location. Just plain stupid. On the off bolt side near the top of the breech.
I took may Gal out to sight in her new Hawke Eclipse 6x24x50. Sweet glass. I hated the center dot reticle until I figured out how to adjust it. I could read the outside target numbers at 50 yards , nice. She is so smooth and effortless to cock and shoot. My favorite feature on her is the little red Button that pops out at you to let you know there's a round in the chamber.
Be Well,
Gator
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BW,
Very cool scope. Have you seen the one Ted showed on his site he found at the German IWA show. It looked about like yours. They retail for $500, which seems fair for what it does.
http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/ (http://tedsholdover.com/2014/03/12/iwa-show-2014/)
Now Ribbobstone:
I owe you buddy. Thanks for posting the barrel rings segment. I have a new refurb that I hope to zero in today. It just so happens a couple days ago, I unscrewed my air cylinder on that BT to see if it was new as well. I knew the action, barrel, trigger and clips were new. But I forgot to notice if the tank was new.
When I went to slide it back in, it was a good 1/4" too fat to fit back in, I had to press the stock down to get it back in place.
Yes, bells should have gone off when that happened. But I am distracted right now caring for the g.f who just had open heart .
When I saw your post, the lights came on and sure enough, the muzzle and the tank were touching.
I took the screw out, I know the plastic insert on the ring will hold the nut/washer in place. I am hoping to head out an zero the BT and see what I bought. A shooter or a dud. Thanks for your wake up call.
Be well,
Gator
Hey GATOR IF YOU FEEL THAT YOU BOUGHT A DUD, I HAVE A FRIEND THAT IS READY TO BUY THAT DUD, PM IF YOU DECIDE TO SELL.
Hello MR, BW
Yeah, I think I got ripped off. I mounted one of my old CenterPoint 4x16x40 Adventurer. The scope had been on my AT44 at one time so I guessed it would not be too far off zero. So see picture 1 for the first 5 ◇◇25.4 JSBs 25 yard site in.(those were shots #43-47 since new so under 50 total shots and spit out that little group.
See picture 2 for best zeroing group of 5 @ 25 yards, the wild pellet was me trying a new trigger hold and Big Clunky has a very light trigger.
Yeah, it's a dud, ♡♥♡♥♡♥♡
I am guessing that with everything new but case and stock for $486 and 90 days Factory Warranty I over paid and that thing wouldn't hit the side of a barn. The worst thing on the BT-65 Elite is the safety location. Just plain stupid. On the off bolt side near the top of the breech.
I took may Gal out to sight in her new Hawke Eclipse 6x24x50. Sweet glass. I hated the center dot reticle until I figured out how to adjust it. I could read the outside target numbers at 50 yards , nice. She is so smooth and effortless to cock and shoot. My favorite feature on her is the little red Button that pops out at you to let you know there's a round in the chamber.
Be Well,
Gator
Wow not even broken in yet or no mods, under 50 total shots? inside a dime with ease? the BT65 bolt will smooth out..Im just looking at that second group with the BT65, and knowing that that group will become hole in hole after a tin ;)