GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: Lightninrod on June 02, 2014, 03:34:48 PM
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My brother in law passed recently and unknown to me, he had a Sheridan C9 Silver Streak .20 cal air rifle. Idon't even know if he ever shot it. He would buy things just to say he had it. I know quite a bit about my Gamo Bone Collector as I have taken several squirrels with it but this is the first pump air rifle I've ever touched. Haven't shot it yet as I don't have any .20 cal pellets yet
Through searching, I know to leave it with one pump when not using it and it takes 3-8 pumps to shoot it. I have 84+ year old eyes so I'll need a scope but I see no way to mount a scope.
Any and all help would be appreciated. And, what might be the best hunting pellet?
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i294/dangreenegreene744/0602141414_zpsletgdvbb.jpg) (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/dangreenegreene744/media/0602141414_zpsletgdvbb.jpg.html)
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Purty lookin' LightninStreak. :D
I am no expert, but that looks like a Benjamin/Sheridan. Appears to have the push-pull safety on the tang as opposed to the older side-to-side rocker safety. Also looks like the right side of the receiver is drilled and tapped for a Williams peep sight. I am guessing early 90's production.
.20 cal pellet selection is limited. Mine likes Benjamin and JSB. Have not tried anything else.
To mount a scope you will need a 'sheridan intermount'. Several styles available. I have a vintage Sheridan made mount with a big Weaver V12 scope on one of mine. Have seen some posts that warn about the clamp on mount causes the barrel to pump tube solder joint to fail, so use at your own risk.
Here is mine -
(http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz192/gkm_tx/misc%20firearms/SheridanStreak.jpg)
P.S. - you need to oil the pump arm pivot points and piston head with Pellgunoil or equivelent when you get some pellets and start to shoot it. They do not like being dry. Causes increased wear and build up contaminates inside the valve body. The oil not only lubricates, it helps flush moisture and gunk out when you shoot.
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Thanks so much for the reply Greg. The early 90's sounds right as he became disabled in the mid 90s and I don't think he could have shot it after that.
I have on order from PA an Air Venturi intermount, a tin of JSB Diablo Exacts, and Hawke 1", Weaver low rings. From the reviews, the low rings should still allow the bolt to clear my old, Bushnell Banner 40mm ao scope but I'm worried.
Still not sure where to apply the oil to the piston head. Is there a hole?
I'm eager to shoot it as I've read so much about how wonderful they are to shoot and are usually very accurate. The bigger pellet should hit a squirrel harder than my .177 BC even at the SS's lower velocity. Just hope they'll wait long enough for me to pump it up😊.
Oh, almost forgot; do the Silverstreaks being nickel coated have the problem some Benjamins have of having paint overspray inside the muzzle?
And, I like the play on my screen name 😊.
Here's another pic.
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i294/dangreenegreene744/0602141413_zpskmb6lzsr.jpg) (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/dangreenegreene744/media/0602141413_zpskmb6lzsr.jpg.html)
Thanks again.
Dan
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Remove the rear sight as those have been known to cause barrel separation in some cases. You also may consider a peep, as those often work well for compromised eyes. Lube the pivots, no oil in the air intake hole. Enough lube will migrate, Mac 1's secret sauce is highly touted. Some use a mix of 30w non detergent and atf, air tool oil, hydraulic oil, fork oil, snake oil, whatever. Nice condition streak, tk
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Tk, do you just slide a flat screwdriver tip under the rear bottom of the sight and prise upwards? And, are you saying that lube will migrate from the pivot points after oiling them?
Dan
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Dan, do not pry up on the rear sight. Probably damage the barrel if you do that. Not sure what other people do, but I use a block of wood on the front of the sight and a small hammer to tap it back toward the breach. There are two triangular shaped wedges, one on each side, that lock it in place. You don't want them moving as you tap. Be sure to save the parts so it can be returned to original if desired.
And yes, the oil will migrate to where it needs to go. Just make sure the pivots and the piston are visibly wet with oil each time you go shooting. Not dripping wet, just a thin film is sufficient.
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Here is my suggestions on what you should know and that's just my opinion. ;)
#1 depending what you do for scope or peep site. if the stock site is held on by wedges just tap it off gently with a piece of wood and hammer. if the site is like mine with 2 dimples on one side and a set screw on the opposite side you can leave it on for a scope.
#2 IA mount from Mac1 or BE#1 Greg Lundy I have the IA mount on my Silver Streak and Greg's scout mount on my 392. so it's your option for what you want to use for your old eyes. ;) ;D
#3 get the KryTech Kit w/Crown Saver
#4 get Secret Sauce Small Dripper 2 fl. oz
#5 Lubrication: EVERY TIME YOU TAKE IT OUT TO USE IT YOU WANT TO ENSURE THAT THE LEVER PIVOTS ARE MOIST WITH SECRET SAUCE. As long as you can see it there is normally plenty already present and no need to add more. A few drops on Secret Sauce at the front and link pivots is all you need and 5 or 6 drops where the link connects to the pump piston. All else will get taken care of by blow through. Never put lubricant on the air hole. Do NOT use gun cleaning solvents anywhere on the gun...
Clean the barrel via patches pulled from breech to muzzle. Lube 1patch in five.
#6 Storage: STEROIDS PREFER TO BE LEFT PUMPED. (This is taken from my instructions for my gun from Tim@Mac1)
keep at least 2-4 pumps at all times, it will keep this way for years. (Never try to pump the gun if it's not cocked for steroid not stock) You want to leave it uncocked but pumped so pump it a few times while holding the bolt PARTIALLY open. When you put it away make sure it has air. My trick (Tim) to pull the bolt back just a little so it doesn't cock, but the hammer is pulled away from the valve. Many guns have a first hammer click right there. The valve aligns better without the hammer touching the end of the exhaust valve so it can ge a full first pump. I retyped this partial info from Tim. hope this will help you.
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Thanks Greg and George. Very helpful.
I have tapped the front of the sight several times now and pretty hard I think. No movement at all. I think I see rust/corrosion in the slot of the bottom piece(there are two pieces; a lower and an upper right?). Nothing moved and I used a very hefty ballpeen hammer(that's older than the C9😊). I sprayed some Liquid Wrench on the sight and let it sit for a while. I'm afraid to hit it any harder as that might loosen the stock, etc.
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i294/dangreenegreene744/0605141840_zpss9mvppxh.jpg) (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/dangreenegreene744/media/0605141840_zpss9mvppxh.jpg.html)
Now that I look at that pic, maybe the top part did move but I d/k if there was that 'overhang showing before I tapped it or not
I got a tube of Pellgunoil from our local Academy Sports today and lubed the pivot points.
My pellets and mount will be here tomorrow and I'm really looking forward to shooting this airgun. I would like to get the rear sight off before I mount the scope. Help!
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Yes, looks like the sight is moving. Maybe just a few more whack with the hammer. Wouldn't hurt to put a tiny drop of that pellgunoil on each side in that groove to help reduce the friction.