GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: bubba zanetti on April 30, 2014, 10:41:09 AM
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I thought I would start a thread regarding the Benjamin hand pump and chronicle my experiences with it and try and provide any technical insight into the care and feeding of this common PCP pump. Also, I wanted to document any upgrades or changes I made to the pump over time, how long it has lasted between maintenance needed and its overall performance.
First, the pump I have was bought used so I had no idea of its history as in how it was treated or if any maintenance was done, but upon its arrival it was clear the pump had seen use. Not in a bad way, just used.
I used the pump to do my initial sight in with the .25 Marauder and it felt like the pump was working a little harder than it needed to pump the gun up to 3000psi. I decided since I didn’t know the pumps history a couple rebuild kits from Sun Optics ($13.00 bucks shipped to my door) were in order. I didn’t want to keep using the pump until I had gone through it to verify its internal condition.
While waiting for the rebuild kits to arrive I read all the threads on the GTA and Marauder forum on the who’s, what’s and why’s of the Benjamin pump including upgrades (i.e. boosting) and general care and feeding. I also watched every YouTube video I could find on how to pull the pump down. This is great information and I didn’t post pictures of the tear down because they exist in so many places I thought it redundant. Besides, that isn’t quite what this thread is about.
A week later the rebuild kit arrived so I broke out the hand tools and began disassembly. One thing, Sun Optics proves a few extra O-rings, but not doubles of EVERYTHING. I have to say, the pump is very, very simple and comes apart with a minimal of hand tools. A few adjustable wrenches and I had it apart rather quickly. The only issue was unscrewing the valve from the final piston bottom was really hard as it was this pumps first time being disassembled. The videos are right, that was hard. But when you re-tighten the bottom valve to the internal piston you don’t torque the heck out it so you won’t have to face that again.
One thing was immediately clear; that little brass filter doesn’t filter &^^&! Well maybe it keeps out insects, rocks and small children walking buy while pumping but the pump was full of moisture and whatever grease used to lube the pump was black and nasty. As I tried to remove the black goo and moisture I started to go through rages quickly and the lube didn’t want to come all the way off. SO I grabbed my rubber gloves and took the parts to my garage and used a can of spray brake cleaner. That removed the nastiness perfectly! I went over each part after cleaning and inspected them closely. The machining in some spots is a little rough. I had removed the original O-rings BEFORE the brake cleaner was used and inspected them while I let the brake cleaner flash off the parts. Upon wiping off the black goo I was surprised to see the O-rings were still in very good shape! Even the common #007 O-ring that fails was PERFECT! I was tempted to re-use the O-rings but decided to start from new for my experiment.
Once all parts were cleaned and laid out with the proper O-rings. I began lightly applying the diver’s silicone grease lightly to the O-rings and installing them. When I mean lite I mean LITE! That stuff is thick and gooey. You barely need any on your fingers to burnish the O-rings. I also applied on the main piston rod an even coating of 15 wt. 100 % percent silicone shock oil from the local hobby store. I also added a light coat of the silicone oil to some of the O-rings to assist in assembly. Before I knew it the pump was back together!
Now, the one mod I did do was add a desiccant filter. Lots of ways to do this, again pictures are all over the GTA and Marauder forum. I think this mod is needed in some form or fashion. You can get the filters from Harbor Freight, NAPA Auto, etc. I then went to ACE Hardware and spent 10 bucks in brass adapters and as you can see from the picture I know have a desiccant filter added to the Benjamin Pump. So for 20-30 bucks in filters and parts you can have a decent filtration system.
This past Sunday I used the pump in its rebuilt condition and all I can say is there is a major difference in its performance. It adds a little more air, runs cooler and smoother to boot!
So right now I am just going to use it and monitor its condition as I shoot this summer. I will start taking pictures of ANY changes I make or maintenance performed. Forgot to add, the first time I used the pump the gauge on the pump did not quite match the gauge on the M-Rod. After the rebuild now they do :D
I think it’s safe to say it is NOT the best pump in the world, but it reminded me of the Marauder rifle itself. Rough around the edges in spots, but works overall if taken care of. Also, with some possible “custom” work made even more reliable and better. I may polish some internals but as not everyone has access to machining parts, let’s see how it does with regular upkeep.
So my first suggestion if you own one of these pumps is to put a filtration system on it…that appears to be a weak link.
To be continued…
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd510/BubbaZanetti2/DSC08565_zps68b8452d.jpg) (http://s1223.photobucket.com/user/BubbaZanetti2/media/DSC08565_zps68b8452d.jpg.html)
BZ
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Thanks, Dan. I'm not sure what pump I'm going to end up with, most likely the Benjamin since that's 90% of what they sell down here. Air Venturi is the other option. Anyway, thanks for your feedback on the rebuild. A lot of folks complain about them, but I'm curious as to how many have taken the time to ensure they are properly assembled, cleaned and lubed. The right attitude has a lot to do with our experiences as well. :)
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Why wait?? Boost that pump and cut the pumping in half. Satisfy your lazy half and enjoy shooting twice as much. :)
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I have had mine for two years.
I follow Tom Gaylord's instructions to the letter.
Use those knees.
Keep the shaft lubed with silicone.
Yep I put the desiccant filter on (in the right direction) (The desiccant can be emptied, dried and re-used) too.
I have a compressor and a Guppy but I use the pump for the PRod and the 1701P.
Now that you have the .25 pressurized it will only take about 75 pumps to get it from 2000-3000psi.
Of course if you de-gas the gun to empty it will take more...
Stay safe and free.
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Boost and do it in +-30.
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1st update.
Shot 140 pellets Sunday during a very extended pest hunt on a dairy farm. This is the most I have shot the M-Rod in one sitting. It took roughly 60-65 pumps to get from 2000 psi to 3000 psi for 24 accurate shots.
If I did the math right that is 325 total strokes on the pump throughout the day.
Pump didn't miss a beat.
BZ
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2nd update and 1st failure.
In defense of the pump, my last couple of shooting sessions I kind of torture tested the Benji pump. Lesson? Let it cool down. In Hot weather that means really let it sit for 10 or more minutes to cool IN THE SHADE! Also, when your desiccant filter beads turn pink, change the filter. I didn't and got a little moisture in the pump.
Pulling the pump down the only O-ring that failed was this one in the valve. seen here in the pics.
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd510/BubbaZanetti2/DSC08631_zpsbba18b32.jpg) (http://s1223.photobucket.com/user/BubbaZanetti2/media/DSC08631_zpsbba18b32.jpg.html)
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd510/BubbaZanetti2/DSC08632_zps077c9b22.jpg) (http://s1223.photobucket.com/user/BubbaZanetti2/media/DSC08632_zps077c9b22.jpg.html)
All other o-rings were still well lubed and in excellent condition. A new o-ring and 10 minutes later I was back up and running.
Why did it fail? Heat and it somehow grabbed and rolled the o-ring tearing it. I could not feel any issue it just would not fill past 700psi.
So let this pumps cool and take your time pumping. Pump lasted about 300-400 shots. That last 50 is when I beat on the pump and it didn't take much to roast that o-ring.
Now I am going to try for longevity and see what happens.
Till Next time
BZ
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I will be watching this.
Sun optics sell a desiccant filter for $25 shipped for the pump,and is somewhat larger than the one you assembled.
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Hey Bravo:
That was just it. The price of the Sunoptics kept me form buying it. The one on the pump came in a two pack for 20.00 at the NAPA auto store and Harbor Freight has them for 8.00 each which I might try one of those when the one on the pump is no longer good. Pretty sure the HF ones are a little bigger too.
If I change it I'll document it :D
BZ
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Boost and do it in +-30.
Kyle:
Not ignoring you but not interested in "boosting" the pump for a host of reasons. The main one being not everyone has the time, tools and talent to boost a pump. But they do have the time, tools and talent to maintain and repair a pump.
Its a great modification for those whom it will suit.
BZ
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2nd update and 1st failure.
In defense of the pump, my last couple of shooting sessions I kind of torture tested the Benji pump. Lesson? Let it cool down. In Hot weather that means really let it sit for 10 or more minutes to cool IN THE SHADE! Also, when your desiccant filter beads turn pink, change the filter. I didn't and got a little moisture in the pump.
Pulling the pump down the only O-ring that failed was this one in the valve. seen here in the pics.
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd510/BubbaZanetti2/DSC08631_zpsbba18b32.jpg) (http://s1223.photobucket.com/user/BubbaZanetti2/media/DSC08631_zpsbba18b32.jpg.html)
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd510/BubbaZanetti2/DSC08632_zps077c9b22.jpg) (http://s1223.photobucket.com/user/BubbaZanetti2/media/DSC08632_zps077c9b22.jpg.html)
All other o-rings were still well lubed and in excellent condition. A new o-ring and 10 minutes later I was back up and running.
Why did it fail? Heat and it somehow grabbed and rolled the o-ring tearing it. I could not feel any issue it just would not fill past 700psi.
So let this pumps cool and take your time pumping. Pump lasted about 300-400 shots. That last 50 is when I beat on the pump and it didn't take much to roast that o-ring.
Now I am going to try for longevity and see what happens.
Till Next time
BZ
Are you saying the o-ring that seals the inner tube to the check valve body where it screws in failed? Not sure how that could "roll" during uses as that inner tube does not move, right?
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I was just given a Benjamin pump, that I don't know the history of, and it does have issues as it is, and it doesn't have a fill hose.
(Hey the price is right, FREE)
It is going to sun optics Tuesday with a check, ($25 for a complete rebuild and refurb, $5 for a new fill hose with foster connection, and $25 for the filter)
So for $55 total, I get to start from a known point with a working pump.
And a filtration/dryer system.
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Big Tin Boat:
I wish I could take better pictures because the tear in the o-ring was weird. In the short the heat from failure to let the pump cool deformed the o-ring and when I pulled the tube out of the housing that's when it probably caused more damage. Maybe I didn't use the correct language in describing the failure initially.
Its not the o-ring I thought that had failed that's for sure.
BZ
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Nice deal Bravo! 55 bucks would work for me 8)
BZ
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Big Tin Boat:
I wish I could take better pictures because the tear in the o-ring was weird. In the short the heat from failure to let the pump cool deformed the o-ring and when I pulled the tube out of the housing that's when it probably caused more damage. Maybe I didn't use the correct language in describing the failure initially.
Its not the o-ring I thought that had failed that's for sure.
BZ
Gotcha - it's usually the 007 on the end of the inner rod. Since that inner tube is threaded my guess would be that you probably "nicked" that ring on installation, which was then furthered by the heat.
What I found is that my pump moves easier and I seem to get lees heat since I went to 100% silicone "oil" for assembly instead of "grease". I used the stuff RC cars use in the differential.
and 45 - yeah $55 is a a deal, especially the $5 for hose with fitting. Heck the cheapest I found foster fittings was about $12 for a pair.
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Big Tin Boat:
I wish I could take better pictures because the tear in the o-ring was weird. In the short the heat from failure to let the pump cool deformed the o-ring and when I pulled the tube out of the housing that's when it probably caused more damage. Maybe I didn't use the correct language in describing the failure initially.
Its not the o-ring I thought that had failed that's for sure.
BZ
Gotcha - it's usually the 007 on the end of the inner rod. Since that inner tube is threaded my guess would be that you probably "nicked" that ring on installation, which was then furthered by the heat.
What I found is that my pump moves easier and I seem to get lees heat since I went to 100% silicone "oil" for assembly instead of "grease". I used the stuff RC cars use in the differential.
and 45 - yeah $55 is a a deal, especially the $5 for hose with fitting. Heck the cheapest I found foster fittings was about $12 for a pair.
Yup, I have a Hobby Store in Seaford, Delaware were I got my 100% silicone shock oil for $4.50. You are correct, great stuff and it lubes very, very well. Don't need much ;)
I thought the 007 ring would be toast too, but looked great. The one Sun Optics now sells in the rebuild kit is a white one (the name of the material escapes me, Mac 1 uses these types of O-rings) and it was fine.
I will keep an eye out if I nicked that o-ring. I am usually pretty good about such things, but I love suggestions as its more to explore.
BZ
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Yup, I have a Hobby Store in Seaford, Delaware were I got my 100% silicone shock oil for $4.50. You are correct, great stuff and it lubes very, very well. Don't need much ;)
I thought the 007 ring would be toast too, but looked great. The one Sun Optics now sells in the rebuild kit is a white one (the name of the material escapes me, Mac 1 uses these types of O-rings) and it was fine.
I will keep an eye out if I nicked that o-ring. I am usually pretty good about such things, but I love suggestions as its more to explore.
BZ
I was going to get the shock oil but it seemed too thin, that's why I went with the differential oil (I think the 5500w). Same oil just diff "thickness".
Also - I did not use the 2 o-rings on the rod, I made a "washer" from a nylon bushing to replace the white o-ring. Seems to be working better for me then using the white and black o-rings together from the "kit". That and a 90 duro viton ring seems to no long "roll".
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BTW...
You do not have to change the filter (The ones from Harbor Freight).
Open them (Unscrew the caps), dump the dessicant onto an aluminum tray and heat in the oven aat 300 degrees til they turn blue.
An old toaster oven (garage sale item) works very well for this...
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I thought since this a Benjamin product,
I called Crosman (since they own Benjamin) to see what their price was on servicing a pump either in or out of warranty.
Their response was that they don't do any servicing of the pump.
It would have to go,to the manufacturer, and they gave me sun optics number.
I called Duane Sorenson there and we talked about the pump, and what should I do to maintain it.
And I asked about lube.
He says when they assemble them, they use Mobil One pure synthetic oil.
And suggested that I use a drop or two of that on the outside tube for lube if any is needed.
I asked about silicone as a lube, he says that the Mobil One has a higher flash point than the pump, or PCP guns can produce.
I did find it interesting, that the manufacturer would suggest using something other than silicone that everyone else (end users) suggest..
But hey, they make it, and know a whole lot more about their product than I do..
Any thoughts on that?
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I asked about silicone as a lube, he says that the Mobil One has a higher flash point than the pump, or PCP guns can produce.
I did find it interesting, that the manufacturer would suggest using something other than silicone that everyone else (end users) suggest..
But hey, they make it, and know a whole lot more about their product than I do..
Any thoughts on that?
The spec sheet I found for the Lucas Silicone oil I use says that it has a flash point of 572 deg F. Depending on the weight of the Mobil One I've found figures that vary in the 400-500 deg F range. I have no clue as to what temps the PCP or Pump can generate
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This was discussed at length on the Marauder Forum. Will it work? Sounds like it will, but I prefer the 100% silicone oil. Using 15wt. by the way. As a side note, I may buy a bottle of 30 wt. BTB or go with the gear oil RC stuff.
I am not a metallurgist or lubrication guru (except in the bedroom ;)), but I have learned in life to follow the advise of those 'in the know'. Tuners and the hardcore crowd usually make discoveries the lay person does not or will not. The two points on the M-Rod forum were put a desiccant filter on your Benji pump and use 100% silicone oil (the shock oil form hobby stores) as the lube. When I called Sun Optics and ordered two rebuild kits, the very nice lady asked what I would be using as lube and I read her the bottle. Know what she said? "Perfect! That RC shock oil works really well for these pumps and you don't need much".
Those are my thoughts 8)
BZ
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I have plenty of silicone oil in different weights from my rc days, and am still using it on my airsoft guns (yes I consider them airguns too)
I just thought it was interesting..
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I have plenty of silicone oil in different weights from my rc days, and am still using it on my airsoft guns (yes I consider them airguns too)
I just thought it was interesting..
I agree and hope my post did not come off the wrong way Bravo.
Will the Mobil 1 work? Probably work great, but the silicone oil is proven so lets lube it up! :o
BZ
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I just have to say that if you look hard enough you can find a tank set up for the price of a pump.I got a tank with fresh hydro {80cf 3000 psi] for $50 and bought the fill system from PA for $100 Fills cost me $6 and I get 80 fills from 1000psi to 2000psi. I had to have patience on the tank but alot of research and phone calls and I ended up with a few choices up to $75 for the tank. I shoot every day and could not imagine not having a tank.
Tommy
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I just have to say that if you look hard enough you can find a tank set up for the price of a pump.I got a tank with fresh hydro {80cf 3000 psi] for $50 and bought the fill system from PA for $100 Fills cost me $6 and I get 80 fills from 1000psi to 2000psi. I had to have patience on the tank but alot of research and phone calls and I ended up with a few choices up to $75 for the tank. I shoot every day and could not imagine not having a tank.
Tommy
Most 80cf tanks with current Hydro are somewhere between $150 and $200. Around my way even ones out of Hydro are going for $75.
Then once you add the $6 per fill, plus the gas in your vehicle to get it to fill station (I'm guessing it would be a job carrying an 80cf tank while walking) along with the other expenses on your vehicle, not to mention the fact that you have to go and get it filled when they are open. I see this as inconvenient to say the least. Plus what would I do with my gun while I'm waiting to find a $50 tank deal?
If we base the decision on what you happened to get a tank for, sure it seems like a great deal. I just picked up an Air Venturi hand pump for $29 (Shipped) from ebay. It was under a $1 for the O-rings needed to have it pumping. So now I have a pretty much unlimited source of air for $30.
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Tommy:
Appreciate the info and trust me, I do keep an eye out for a nice deal on a tank, but tanks are NOT what this thread is about or boosting a pump, etc.
There is a simple reality that many of us PCP owners don't mind pumping, are on a severe budget or don't want to buy a tank set up as they just don't want one or any other myriad of reasons that could be listed.
I have had the M-Rod filled by SCBA tank and it was very fast and nice during a big pest hunt on a dairy farm. So I am aware of the convenience factor. I fully understand why fellow AG shooters purchase them and am not ignorant of their usefulness. With that said, one of the reasons I started this thread was the people on a budget or the person who saved for a DayState or FX or even a M-Rod, but can only afford a hand pump to fill it. The question comes in: How can I keep this thing reliable? How can I keep it working? Any simple mods help?
Nuff said :D
BZ
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I was reading the manual for a friends FX pump, and it specifies a certain lube by name for the pump.
(The FX pumps also have a 5 year parts and labor warranty I am surprised to find out.)
The Benjamin is 90 days warranty.
But they suggest using RENOLIT-RHF1 (what ever that is)
But in researching the lube I found this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LQUID8R-FX-1-Synth-Grease-w-PTFE-Replaces-RENOLIT-RHF-Precharge-PCP-Airgun-Pumps-/271115044952 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/LQUID8R-FX-1-Synth-Grease-w-PTFE-Replaces-RENOLIT-RHF-Precharge-PCP-Airgun-Pumps-/271115044952)
Also the FX has a moisture trap built into the base that is vented when you release the pressure.
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But they suggest using RENOLIT-RHF1 (what ever that is)
Its Swedish for "100% silicone lube" 8)
BZ
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You said it Bubba,
Truthfully, I don't mind pumping.
With the B50 at its current setting, I get 30 shots, and pump 26-30 times. (Depending if I bottom & top out the pump every stroke.)
It may sometimes be inconvenient (dusty environment) .
I just put a clean bath mat in the bed of my truck,
or on a bench at the range for the rifle and pump to to sit so they aren't in the dirt.
Definitely easier than 8 pumps on a Benjamin 392 per shot..
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Here is the threads final update:
After pumping both my Bam-50 and .25 M-Rod multiple times I have come to the conclusion that the Benjamin pump works but does not like consistently pumping past 2500 psi. This range appears to be very hard on the pump. It can do it but this is when I had the most problems. So in no order:
Pros:
-Very easy pump to maintain, tear it down a few times and its a simple pump to repair.
-o rings are cheap for the pump.
-works very well for 2000 psi or under pumping.
-Price, if you can get one for under 100 bucks, makes a nice back up.
-If on a budget, it will fill your AG
Cons:
-Hard to pump over 2500 psi. Its work and this is when the pump o rings can be damaged.
-Have to carry spare o-rings and a couple adjustable wrenches to shoots or when shooting.
-At full price, not worth it for pumping guns to the 3000 psi mark.
-Have to modify it to keep moisture out (i.e. add desiccant filters)
The M-rod is what really made me decide to leave the Benjamin Pump. I burned up more o-rings going from 2500-3000 psi without really trying. I had to learn to pump really, really slow and methodical in this psi range. Too slow for my tastes. Also, when I would let others shoot the M-rod and pump the gun back up, it did not matter how many times I showed how to pump the m-rod they would fry o-rings and I would be pulling the pump apart in the field and rebuilding it. Again, thats really easy to do but with the M-rod tuned between 2000-3000 psi it was a PIA! So the Benji pump has moved to a new home. Another GTA member bought to for back up.
So what is Bubba Zanetti using now? I bought a HIll Pump from PA a few weeks ago with one of their Christmas special coupons. Got it shipped for 256.00. So far I have pumped the M-Rod and my little Ninja tank for the Drozd-both to 3000 psi. All I can say there is no comparison between the Benji pump and the Hill in the 2500 to 3000 fill range. The HIll does it so much faster and without the hard work. I do not have to lean on the Hill like I did the Benji to get that last 500 psi in. Also, the Hill defiantly moves MORE air into the M-Rod and Ninja tank so I am not pumping as long.
When people say "get a Hill and be down with it" I now know why. If you think you will be a pumper and you have HPA guns that are filled to 3000 psi, save your money for a tank or a HIll Pump. The HIll owners are right-there is just no comparison.
BZ
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few questions for those more knowledgeable than I. I disassembled my pump yesterday then cleaned and soaked it with some cerflon silicon spray it has set all night to dry. today I went to harbor freight to get the filter and was looking for plumbers grease well they didn't have any and I found super lube instead. will the super lube be ok to use with the silicon a sprayed on it yesterday, or will there be some kind of bad reaction?
also the filter I have I just looked at it and not all beads are blue some most are purple and some look possibly pink. do I unscrew the big end to get them out?
thank you.
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few questions for those more knowledgeable than I. I disassembled my pump yesterday then cleaned and soaked it with some cerflon silicon spray it has set all night to dry. today I went to harbor freight to get the filter and was looking for plumbers grease well they didn't have any and I found super lube instead. will the super lube be ok to use with the silicon a sprayed on it yesterday, or will there be some kind of bad reaction?
also the filter I have I just looked at it and not all beads are blue some most are purple and some look possibly pink. do I unscrew the big end to get them out?
thank you.
I installed one of those HF filters on my pump and used it for several months, but I honestly don’t believe it did any good at all. Each time I opened the bleed valve I could feel moisture on my hand. Also, the silica beads never changed color the entire time I used the filter. I would have expected them to turn pink but they remained the same blue color. I got rid of the HF filter and replaced it with one I made based on the information I found in this post (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=42922.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=42922.0)). I used silica based kitty litter as the desiccant. Now I don’t notice any moisture when I open the bleed screw.
As far as silicone plumber’s grease… I have seen it for sale in the plumbing section of Lowes/Home Depot.
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will the super lube be ok to use with the silicon a sprayed on it yesterday, or will there be some kind of bad reaction?
Super Lube is a good lubricant for this application. I'm not familiar with the spray lubricant you mentioned but it's generally not advisable to mix lubricants. Also, I wouldn't want to reassemble anything that has been sitting out for any length of time anyway, unless it was in stored an assembly clean room. Any lubricant on the parts invites dust and contaminants to the exposed surfaces. Start with clean parts and lubricate as you assemble.
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Morning guys,
Dan I don't know how I missed this thread but thank you good info!
I have a question. Early on someone mentions Sun Optics desiccant kit and I have seen it too.
But you reply Harbor Freight and NAPA have the filters cheaper... I assume for different applications.
Do you have a parts list for hardware required to add the bung to attach the filter as well as what filter to ask for or where to look to find one.
A tank is also on my list... I almost jumped on the MAC1 tiny bottle before I realized how small it is. Might be OK for the 1500 & 2000psi guns but not so much the thirsty Mrod 25. I think I need a larger bottle and really want a 4500 to make the most of my trips for refills... That's another thread for another time. ::)
Making my benji pump last and improve the quality of its performance is a good thing for now.
Thank you,
CW
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Morning guys,
Dan I don't know how I missed this thread but thank you good info!
I have a question. Early on someone mentions Sun Optics desiccant kit and I have seen it too.
But you reply Harbor Freight and NAPA have the filters cheaper... I assume for different applications.
Do you have a parts list for hardware required to add the bung to attach the filter as well as what filter to ask for or where to look to find one.
A tank is also on my list... I almost jumped on the MAC1 tiny bottle before I realized how small it is. Might be OK for the 1500 & 2000psi guns but not so much the thirsty Mrod 25. I think I need a larger bottle and really want a 4500 to make the most of my trips for refills... That's another thread for another time. ::)
Making my benji pump last and improve the quality of its performance is a good thing for now.
Thank you,
CW
Brian:
I don't have a list. I took the pump base and the HF desiccant filter to ACE Hardware and picked out the brass fittings to connect the filter to the base. Trial and error and I dint write anything down as I figured that what everybody does LOL!. The HF filter is in their spray gun area, at least at my local HF.
If saving for a 4500 psi bottle then this may be irrelevant, but now having the Hill pump for a bit I am amazed at how much easier the last 500 psi is to pump into a 3000psi gun.
Keep us posted!
BZ
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few questions for those more knowledgeable than I. I disassembled my pump yesterday then cleaned and soaked it with some cerflon silicon spray it has set all night to dry. today I went to harbor freight to get the filter and was looking for plumbers grease well they didn't have any and I found super lube instead. will the super lube be ok to use with the silicon a sprayed on it yesterday, or will there be some kind of bad reaction?
also the filter I have I just looked at it and not all beads are blue some most are purple and some look possibly pink. do I unscrew the big end to get them out?
thank you.
Terry, good info. The HF filter worked for me but I did have one 'fail' early as the beads turned really quick and the pump had moisture in it. Good alternative and glad you posted!
BZ
I installed one of those HF filters on my pump and used it for several months, but I honestly don’t believe it did any good at all. Each time I opened the bleed valve I could feel moisture on my hand. Also, the silica beads never changed color the entire time I used the filter. I would have expected them to turn pink but they remained the same blue color. I got rid of the HF filter and replaced it with one I made based on the information I found in this post (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=42922.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=42922.0)). I used silica based kitty litter as the desiccant. Now I don’t notice any moisture when I open the bleed screw.
As far as silicone plumber’s grease… I have seen it for sale in the plumbing section of Lowes/Home Depot.
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Here is the filter
http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-desiccant-dryerfilter-68215.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-desiccant-dryerfilter-68215.html)
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13978.jpg)
My benji pump is at my Dad's house so I can't check, but I think you will need a 1/4" to 1/8" NPT fitting, male on each end IIRC
like this
(http://www.nitrousexpress.com/prod_images/xlarge/16126.jpg)
Then you put this QC fitting in the other end and can hook up your booster tank
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31ULSIiN2GL._SY355_.jpg)
I think my HF actually had both fitting I needed. I know they have the QC, not sure if I got the reducer there or maybe Lowe's.
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Thank you!!