GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: geewhiz380 on April 29, 2014, 07:10:02 PM
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or is there a specific model that does well out the box ... cause from what i read seems its a 50/50 good and bad...i dont want to get stuck purchasing one if problems will occur ,vortex ,spring ,or np ,1000x.25 125.25or 135.25 which one iyo will do better than ,im looking for accuratecy and trigger ,scopable as well ...dont mind power if it can reach 50yds with no problem ...yes i can shoot magnum as i own a couple ...any input would be apperciated ,thanks ....jorge
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I know you might not be looking for a 95, but mine did fine out of the box. I don't know about other models, but I feel like if you get a good one you'll know, and if you get a bad one just send it back.
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Hey GeeWhiz380,
IMHO a Hatsan airgun purchase is a Great Deal for someone who is willing/capable of doing some basic maintenance on their gun. This would mean a basic tune or piston seal replacement.
For someone unable/unwilling to do this work, I would recommend either spending an additional $100 to have the Hatsan professionally tuned or spend at least another $150 and buy a Diana. You will likely suffer more than $100/$150 on frustration & time trying to figure out what is wrong and (airgun) down time.
My two cents...........
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i see u gentle have the 95 in .177,22,25 im really gonna look into this one cause i love my rws i own the 54.22 and 350m.22 and looking for .25 ,i could tune it myself as my friend has a spring compressor and does his own work ,i,ll get together with him see what he thinks ...jorge
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I have a Hatsan 135 in .22 and love it. It consistently shoots 1000+ FPS with H&N FTT 5.55 head pellets. I use open sites and shoot a 0.4" taget at 13 yards and always hit the target. This rifle is not for indoor home shooting with it's 30+ FPE power. This beast is ment for hunting or a real indoor/outdoor range. It feels and shoots like a bazooka. I wouldn't dream of putting a scope on this thing as it's going to eat them up and render them useless unless you buy a real expensive one. I can't see spending $400 on a scope to put on a $220 rifle. Just my opinion. Anyway, for the money, this is one of the better deals out there for quality & price. I'm glad I made the purchase. I felt mine didn't need a tune out of the box.
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In my experience, there doesn't seem to be much support for Hatsan'sat least for my guna Dominator 200.
For example, when I contacted Hatsan about the very poor velocity I was getting from my gun to find out stock spring specs...
They replied that my spring should be between 12 and 13 inches @ 43 coils.
What mfg. gives stock spring length within an inch range?!?
(My spring is 11.5" @ 42 coils)
This is just an example of why my experience lends me to believe Hatsan isn't much of a professional outfit, at least so far in the U.S.
If all you need are seals and are happy with stock performance for a time, you'll be OK.
Otherwise, if you need to upgrade or even replace a stock item like a spring, you might have a harder time than if you had a Crosman.
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My Hatsan 135 22 caliber has always been hard on scopes its now after 4000 rounds converted to Vortex ram and scopes are still a issue. so far 8 Center Point 4x16x40 Scopes in 8 months have bit the dust. One Field & Stream 4x16x50 bit the dusty in one day of shooting the zoom ring became cocked and not use able.
2 Leapers 4x16x50 1" tubes and 2 4x16x56 30mm tube have bit the dust each of these lost vertical hole on POI. up and down 4-5 inches was signs of failures. Leapers has given very good warrentie on there products so far.
I do love the gun it shoots very tight groups when the scope is holding its POI. Updated 7/ 31/2016 Leapers gave me a solid base mounting system that has kept POI on target now for over 1500 shots. I had to do some manual machine work to the weaver rail to mount it securely flat and level.
It was well worth the extra time.
(http://www.ecedc.com/weaverfix.jpg).
Update on Vortex ram's yes ram's I have had many of these replaced by Hatsan USA's repair crew. Multiple ram failures and or seals :-[. Not to say they did not give it the gods honest hard try to fix it. I even switched pellets to H&N and Hatsan's Vortex line and it still has power fade. They did get it up to 1016 fps one one repair but it faded and never came back on last repair 940 fps was the speed they recorded. That is now down to 883 fps with H&N sniper lights. ( not a true magnum gun any more. ) :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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Not sure since I have not owned one but have shot a friends. They definitely are a bit "twangy" and harsh < or his was from the box. Now he had a cheaper one bought at a department store style business. But it could definitely had used a tune for sure.
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I have a Hatsan 135 in .22 and love it. It consistently shoots 1000+ FPS with H&N FTT 5.55 head pellets. I use open sites and shoot a 0.4" taget at 13 yards and always hit the target. This rifle is not for indoor home shooting with it's 30+ FPE power. This beast is ment for hunting or a real indoor/outdoor range. It feels and shoots like a bazooka. I wouldn't dream of putting a scope on this thing as it's going to eat them up and render them useless unless you buy a real expensive one. I can't see spending $400 on a scope to put on a $220 rifle. Just my opinion. Anyway, for the money, this is one of the better deals out there for quality & price. I'm glad I made the purchase. I felt mine didn't need a tune out of the box.
You should use heavier pellets, so you stay in the lower to mid 900 fps, for improved accuracy. Do not go over 1000 fps. I get a rugged hole with 5 pellets at 25 yards, so your "accuracy" is a bit meeh...
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My Hatsan 135 22 caliber has always been hard on scopes its now after 4000 rounds converted to Vortex ram and scopes are still a issue. sofar 8 cp 4x16x40 in 8 months have bit the dust. One F&S 4x16x50 bit the dusty in one day of shooting the zoom ring became cocked and not useable.
2 Leapers 4x16x50 1" tubes and 2 4x16x56 30mm tube have bit the dust each of these lost vertical hole on POI. up and down 4-5 inches was signs of failures. Leapers has given good warrentie on there products so far. Now waiting no mount up a Leapers 10x50x fixxed power 30mm tube. I gut my fingers crossed on it. I do love the gun it shoots very tight groups when the scope is holding its POI for ya.
Why do you brake more then 13???!!!!??!!??!! scopes, and still donīt buy a dampened mount for your rifle?????? Not very clever or fun.
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I have a Hatsan 135 in .22 and love it. It consistently shoots 1000+ FPS with H&N FTT 5.55 head pellets. I use open sites and shoot a 0.4" taget at 13 yards and always hit the target. This rifle is not for indoor home shooting with it's 30+ FPE power. This beast is ment for hunting or a real indoor/outdoor range. It feels and shoots like a bazooka. I wouldn't dream of putting a scope on this thing as it's going to eat them up and render them useless unless you buy a real expensive one. I can't see spending $400 on a scope to put on a $220 rifle. Just my opinion. Anyway, for the money, this is one of the better deals out there for quality & price. I'm glad I made the purchase. I felt mine didn't need a tune out of the box.
You should use heavier pellets, so you stay in the lower to mid 900 fps, for improved accuracy. Do not go over 1000 fps. I get a rugged hole with 5 pellets at 25 yards, so your "accuracy" is a bit meeh... What? Reread what I wrote.
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Yeah I read your post just fine. At 13 yards I get one hole, with my 95, so your "accuracy" isnīt that good. You need to lower your fps to 900-950, for consistent accuracy. Try some groups at 25 yards, then you will know how inaccurate your rifle is. .4" at 13 yards are not a good measure for accuracy with an airgun, regardless of what you think.
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more on point. Isn't it considered best to tune ANY springer? If you want maximum accuracy, life expectancy and power, I say yes. Tune any springer you purchase. Just my .02
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Yeah I read your post just fine. At 13 yards I get one hole, with my 95, so your "accuracy" isnīt that good. You need to lower your fps to 900-950, for consistent accuracy. Try some groups at 25 yards, then you will know how inaccurate your rifle is. .4" at 13 yards are not a good measure for accuracy with an airgun, regardless of what you think.
You can see my targets from Sweden? I don't know anyone who can see that far. You own one airgun and you're a pro? LOL
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Yeah I read your post just fine. At 13 yards I get one hole, with my 95, so your "accuracy" isnīt that good. You need to lower your fps to 900-950, for consistent accuracy. Try some groups at 25 yards, then you will know how inaccurate your rifle is. .4" at 13 yards are not a good measure for accuracy with an airgun, regardless of what you think.
You can see my targets from Sweden? I don't know anyone who can see that far. You own one airgun and you're a pro? LOL
Yes I only use one airgun per time. Feels pretty pointless to list every gun I own or have owned. Shot airguns competitive in my youth. When I was in the military I also shot a few guns, up to 300 yards then. All in all Iīve owned app. 10 airguns, in the 25 years Iīve been shooting them.
If I can see your targets? No you yourself told us all that you can hit a target at 13 yards. Is that good accuracy? No. If you can hit hole in hole at 13 yards, then it is good accuracy, but you cant, and Iīve told you why, and also told you how to fix it. Your cup of tea, but for me, hole in hole at 25 yards is accurate. 0.5" is what I like for 50 yards. For you, not so much... Keep on blasting objects.
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more on point. Isn't it considered best to tune ANY springer? If you want maximum accuracy, life expectancy and power, I say yes. Tune any springer you purchase. Just my .02
+100 Any rifle or gun, benefits from a tune.
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Yeah I read your post just fine. At 13 yards I get one hole, with my 95, so your "accuracy" isnīt that good. You need to lower your fps to 900-950, for consistent accuracy. Try some groups at 25 yards, then you will know how inaccurate your rifle is. .4" at 13 yards are not a good measure for accuracy with an airgun, regardless of what you think.
You can see my targets from Sweden? I don't know anyone who can see that far. You own one airgun and you're a pro? LOL
Yes I only use one airgun per time. Feels pretty pointless to list every gun I own or have owned. Shot airguns competitive in my youth. When I was in the military I also shot a few guns, up to 300 yards then. All in all Iīve owned app. 10 airguns, in the 25 years Iīve been shooting them.
If I can see your targets? No you yourself told us all that you can hit a target at 13 yards. Is that good accuracy? No. If you can hit hole in hole at 13 yards, then it is good accuracy, but you cant, and Iīve told you why, and also told you how to fix it. Your cup of tea, but for me, hole in hole at 25 yards is accurate. 0.5" is what I like for 50 yards. For you, not so much... Keep on blasting objects.
Post your trophies with you holding them and your one gun that needs a life support system to make it shoot. LOL
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Hey Guys, Guys, Guys,
Jeez..........
Hey Mafatone, sounds like you have good eyes as I couldn't shoot my 135 at 13 yards and hit anything w/o a scope. My HK3006 hasn't failed yet, but I'm going to look into a dampening mount just so I don't have to spend unnecessary time returning scopes to Hawke.
Also, as pellets exceed roughly 1,000 - 1,100 fps they begin to wobble and become inaccurate. You will notice that the most accurate springer's usually stay between 550 & 975 fps. This is not an accident. Your gun may shoot more accurately if you tried heavier pellets to slow down velocity, maybe not?
If you intend to shoot accurately at longer distances doing everything in your control (right) becomes more necessary.
PS: Right now, I can't hit the broad side of a barn with my .25 cal 135 bazooka? I don't know if it's a barrel crowning problem (I cut it down), a scope issue, the gun or me? Since I own many model 95's, and readily compare shootability, I feel the 95 is just a way better functioning gun. After a tune and new ARH piston seal, the 135 still just jumps around wildly when fired?
I will crack her open again and maybe de-tune the spring some. The 135 looks beautiful, shoots at 800+fps, but I can't hit S@#t!
My two cents...........
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Kirk, I just an email from member from another forum that requested me to push a pellet through my barrel to see what I get. I told him that that it passes through pretty smoothly until it reaches the last 1/4" towards the crown then it tightens up as if it was choked. He says that him and many other people have the opposite effect. Tight at the breech and the pellet falls through the barrel at the end. He claims that some barrels were put tighter backwards during assembly. You might want to try the test and see what you get. If it's bad just return it. I hope this helps.
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Mafatone,
Most of the problem with the 135 is due to my tinkering. Since I cut the nasty plastic sight off Hatsan would never take it back, this voids the warranty. The 135 shot well enough before "THE CUT" for me to know it's not the barrel.
Just spent about 1/2 hour lapping the crown using a brass screw, some polishing compound and my drill, and Shaazaammmm........ she's shooting reasonable groups again! I had turned the barrel on my lathe a put a 11 degree crown so it would fit my new muzzle brake. Unfortunately, my (crappy) crown work left a deep burr in the barrel misdirecting the pellet.
I recently bought a HPA muzzle brake that screws on; it looks fantastic! I think I will fabricate more of these things on my lathe for my other guns if I choose to cut off the ugly plastic muzzle brake/sight. Bye the way, I'm not very fond of the Hatsan open sights. They are too bulky to be effective IMHO.
My big complaint with my 135 is that is just "too much" of everything (the Bazooka is a perfect description). If I hunted and needed that kind of "knock down power" the other flaws would be perfectly acceptable. The 135 is just a lot more of a PITA vs. the model 95 IMHO.
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Have you tried lapping the inside of the barrel? I've done this to a few crappy shooters with good results. Just an idea.
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Hey Mafatone,
I hate sounding Naive, but what is the proceedure to Lapp the inside of the barrel?
Kirk
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All spring guns need a once over inspection internally. Doesn't matter where it's made. Just IMHO
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Kirk there are a few ways. I'm no expert at this either. There's fire lapping. That's when you take some JB bore paste or metal polish put it on some cleaning pellets or just regular pellets and shoot them through the barrel. What I chose was I took my cleaning kit, attached the rods, put the brass cleaning brush at the end then wrapped it with a cleaning patch. I put some chrome/metal polish on the patch. Put the rod with the brush/patch on it and chucked it inside a cordless drill and started to rotate the drill while going in & out of the barrel. I only made four passes on mine. Get the idea. I only did this twice to two Crosman's and it made an improvement. This may or may not help you but it's just an idea. Like I said, I had another member call me today and he claims they had put the barrels on backwards on a few of his & friends Hatsans. You might want to get in touch with the company.
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All spring guns need a once over inspection internally. Doesn't matter where it's made. Just IMHO
Agree ........
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Mafatone,
Most of the problem with the 135 is due to my tinkering. Since I cut the nasty plastic sight off (along with 3" of barrel) Hatsan would never take it back, this voids the warranty. The 135 shot well enough before "THE CUT" for me to know it's not the barrel.
Just spent about 1/2 hour lapping the crown using a brass screw, some polishing compound and my drill, and Shaazaammmm........ she's shooting reasonable groups again! I had turned the barrel on my lathe a put a 11 degree crown so it would fit my new muzzle brake. Unfortunately, my (crappy) crown work left a deep burr in the barrel misdirecting the pellet.
I recently bought a HPA muzzle brake that screws on; it looks fantastic! I think I will fabricate more of these things on my lathe for my other guns if I choose to cut off the ugly plastic muzzle brake/sight. Bye the way, I'm not very fond of the Hatsan open sights. They are too bulky to be effective IMHO.
My big complaint with my 135 is that is just "too much" of everything (the Bazooka is a perfect description). If I hunted and needed that kind of "knock down power" the other flaws would be perfectly acceptable. The 135 is just a lot more of a PITA vs. the model 95 IMHO.
The 135 probably doesn't face any more QC issues than the 95. Sometimes you get a good one, sometimes it needs a little more work, sometimes you just need to exchange it. The only issues the 135 brings over the 95 are weight, cocking effort, and hold sensitivity. I am willing to bet you can detune that rifle to a level that it is less hold sensitive than a 95 and it will still spank a maxed out 95 in power.
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Hey Pellet Hunter .22,
Yeah > there is a certain amount of whining to my comments as a result of my frustration with the 135. As far as QC, I think Hatsan spends a little more time is finishing the 135 vs. model 95; they also give a little nicer grade of Turkish Walnut stock.
However, my complaints are more centered on general shot cycle and shootablity. De-tuning the spring will likely need to be done - we'll see. Have you ever shot the 95 & 135 side by side?
Remember, it's only my two cents................
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My only personal experience with Hatsan guns is with the 125. Mine was the Walther badged version- a Talon Magnum. I only have good things to say about that gun. In general, people always have more issues with the magnums. And the 135 is about as magnum as a spring gun gets. To put it into perspective, the RWS 350 magnum is well know for it's hold sensitivity, but when you learn to shoot it, it can hang with the best of the best at least untill fatigue sets in or your concentration breaks. The 135 is about 50% more powerful but only a pound heavier. It can handle some of the heavier Vortek springs that, according to some, will make the trigger in a 350 mag unsafe for the sere. Plus the QC is about on par with other Turkish and even some Chinese guns, albeit with a little better steel than the Chinese guns (we assume). Having that information gathered by cruising forums (probably a little too much time surfing let's be honest!) one can only expect the 135 to be a monster that you have to tame to get results. You have got to hold her a certain way and be very, very consistant, and even if you do everyting right you might not get groups better than 1.5" average at 25 or 30 yards- more like 2" average or worse if you never figure out her favorite ammo or how she likes to be held. And to me, that is acceptable for a gun this powerful and this nice in this price range. A tune and a barrel chop and crown may yield better results but your mileage may vary. Besides, figuring all that out is half the fun of shooting an ultra-mag breakbarrel!
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Hey Geewhiz380,
I'm not recommending it, because I don't own one, but the Model 95 in .25 cal. with a Vortex gas ram - maxed out to 150 bar would probably be something! With a tune & ARH seal, I bet you could get 800 fps. ;)
Kirk
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800 fps, with the lightest .25 lead pellets, is a lot more than you'll ever see out of a hatsan 95. The reason is because the compression tube is not large enough. Not enough air in it to compress for that kind of power. That is webley patriot territory and only a handful of spring piston airguns can achieve that power level.
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Pellet Hunter 22,
Maybe..........., but I'd like to try it! I'm not endorsing maxing the power either as there is always compromises along the way. According to Geewhiz380, he's is looking for a .25 cal and I thought a maxed out 95 would be better than a tame 135. You can always let some pressue out of the Vortex if needed.
I don't know the limitations of the 95 (physics), but I would suspect you could get 750+ out of her.
But of course, I'm just speculating based on my tinkering.
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Maxing out a spring platform is troublesome. The hatsan guns typically are almost oversprung right out of the box. I doubt if uou could squeeze any more power out of one other than what you might get with a proper de-bur and lube with fresh seals. But to each there own. If your goal is to max out a lighter rifle that's easier to carry, go for it. But that weight helps you manage recoil and hold sensitivity
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I own one now and have not tuned it yet. I will begin the process though once I get the stock done and a scoped added. Not quite sure what to do...im sure something can be done though..
Cheers
Jay
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I spent a few hours looking at videos for the Hatsan factory. I'm very impressed with them and plan on buying one of their products, maybe two. They have a bunch of CNC machines and those CNC machines do much of the work. Years ago I ran forth axis CNC machines so I have some idea what there set up is like. It looks to me that they are absolutely first class in everything they so. I'm new to this and have much to learn, but it galls me that a person should have to have a brand new air rifle tuned so it works well when they get it. Quality control should check these 100% before they are shipped to be sure they are top notch air rifles. My .02 cents worth. Good luck to you my friend. Shoot well.
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Hey bountybuddy,
I think Hatsan's quality control issues are getting better, but a quick tune (2 to 3 hours) makes them great.
As a "hobby tinkerer" I look at the quality control issue as a blessing. I can buy a gun that is $150/$250 underpriced and spend about $30 for a new piston seal and lube from ARH (sand/polish piston & chamber) and SHAZAM..........I've got a airgun with Walnut stock that looks beautiful and is very powerful / accurate.
What more could you want............just a different perspective.
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The issue here is that the level of QC required to ensure 100% flawless function and reliability requires a lot of things to be done by hand, with skilled laborers, which would drive the price up above what most average people can afford or are willing to spend. Lately even Weirauch has had some QC complaints, even though they have the QC failsafes in places with skilled laborers (and the price of the guns reflects this).
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Hey Pellet Hunter .22,
I Absolutely agree!
I believe the earlier Hatsan 95's that I have seen went right from the lathe to assembly, with no finishing of the piston at all. But for $150, the only thing lacking is a tune and then you have a $600 airgun according to moderator Gene Curtis.
Not bad for someone who doesn't mind messing with their gun.
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Hey Bountybuddy,
Any chance you could post a link for the videos you were mentioning, about the Hatsan manufacturing process? I'd be very interested to see those.
Thanks,
Dennis
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I have a Hatsan 135 in .22 and love it. It consistently shoots 1000+ FPS with H&N FTT 5.55 head pellets. I use open sites and shoot a 0.4" taget at 13 yards and always hit the target. This rifle is not for indoor home shooting with it's 30+ FPE power. This beast is ment for hunting or a real indoor/outdoor range. It feels and shoots like a bazooka. I wouldn't dream of putting a scope on this thing as it's going to eat them up and render them useless unless you buy a real expensive one. I can't see spending $400 on a scope to put on a $220 rifle. Just my opinion. Anyway, for the money, this is one of the better deals out there for quality & price. I'm glad I made the purchase. I felt mine didn't need a tune out of the box.
I love my 135 Hatsan. did a few mods to get it to keep scope on with out breakage. CUT EXTRA GROVE IN WEAVER RAIL MOUNTING to secure a weaver solid base mount to secure a Leapers 4x16x56 x 30mm scope propertly. (http://www.ecedc.com/weaverfix.jpg) This was done with a flat file new from the local hardware store. I used two dovetail mounts as a guide. :D. (http://www.ecedc.com/mountscope.jpg) Above is the combo. Note the two part mounting system can not stablize your scope propertly... I ran into this problem and resolved it after sending the scope back to Leapers as i thought it was broken. They pre tested this scope when new and retested it 100 times and said it was still holding its own. I noted that and took time a few milli seconds and came up with the throught that the test equimpment had a more stable mounting system that the two weaver mounts that came with the scope. so I requested a solid base mount and the sent it. Note I had to add a addtional slot to the weaver mount on the rifle. the fix will fit with out the slot but and it will group very well at fix range. But note it will fit front and rear of the rail and tilt the scope up or down giving you all sorts of problem trying to hit a distance other than site in distance. With my fresh cut grove the scope lays flat to barrel were it belongs and life shooting becomes a real pleasure again. Ok this is scope #13 my favorite Number. 8 were centerpoints 4x16x40 one was Field and Stream mounted with weaver mounts. Three were Leapers two of these were the 4x16x50 1 inch and two were the 4x16x56 30mm. scope # has now nearly 1500 rounds plus testing another 200 times from leapers. Groups are as tight as you can hold at 13 yards .11" is possible and same at 24 yards. I have shot these from sandbag rest. I have done with all 13 scopes and still doing it with scope #13. I have done this with spring and with vortex ram. Nutters kills out to 70 yards no problem. milldot scopes are great to have knowing your pellet speed and trajectory is also great haven a android calulator for pellet flight and angle is a plus also.
(http://www.ecedc.com/135.jpg)
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Usually, just shooting a gun smooths things out. That's what most basic tunes do, speed things up by manually smoothing stuff instead of letting it happen naturally. Magnum Hatsans need more. The big hatsans are so powerful, and tolerances so loose internally, a good tune makes a night and day difference. The number one thing you can do with the 125's and 135's is to install tight spring guides at both ends of the springs. That spring is so big and heavy, it takes a tight guide to really calm down the shot cycle. I make a front guide (tophat), that is nearly identical to the rear guide except for length, approx. 2" long. I take off the plastic washers off the stock guides to prevent spring bind, and put one polished steel washer on the tophat between the spring and tophat and polish the steel washer on the rear guide. I also use a VERY light coat of heavy tar on the spring, not even letting it string between coils, just coating it.
Along with a solid smoothing and deburring, new seal, moly lube, and some polishing of the crown and loading port, I typically get 32-34 FPE out of the 22 cal versions, and higher in 25 cal, and the shot cycle goes from being a twisty violent twang, to a solid sharp thump. I'd also add that these Hatsans tend to have overly large barrel bores, so looking for the pellets with larger skirt diameters also can make a significant improvement in the shot cycle.
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Thanks Paul,
The next time I open up my Hatsan's 95's & 135, we'll add a delrin tophat to all ;)
The 95's likely will benefit from the additional spring guide too :D
Kirk
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I have a Hatsan 135 in .22 and love it. It consistently shoots 1000+ FPS with H&N FTT 5.55 head pellets. I use open sites and shoot a 0.4" taget at 13 yards and always hit the target. This rifle is not for indoor home shooting with it's 30+ FPE power. This beast is ment for hunting or a real indoor/outdoor range. It feels and shoots like a bazooka. I wouldn't dream of putting a scope on this thing as it's going to eat them up and render them useless unless you buy a real expensive one. I can't see spending $400 on a scope to put on a $220 rifle. Just my opinion. Anyway, for the money, this is one of the better deals out there for quality & price. I'm glad I made the purchase. I felt mine didn't need a tune out of the box.
Cheap scope and double post mounts never held up. I have gone thru 13 scopes. 8 centerpoints lol with leapers I resolved the problem. and a flat file. I think its mostly the double post mounts even with my leapers scope did not work out until I replace it with a soild base weaver mount did my tight groups stay at same POI . (http://www.ecedc.com/weaverfix.jpg)
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my hatsan 125 sniper needs something, accuracy is horrible no matter what I do. think im going to replace the spring with a nitro xl piston and change the piston seal and hope that helps. right now 1.5" at 30yds is the best its has gotten and it just gets worse the more I shoot it.
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Have you tried a pellet with a slightly larger diameter? The Hatsans tend to have a loose bore, and larger diameter pellets can make a huge difference.
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Have you tried a pellet with a slightly larger diameter? The Hatsans tend to have a loose bore, and larger diameter pellets can make a huge difference.
Have tried, JSB exact 18gr, crosman hollow point, predators and 4 or 5 different H&N pellets that come in the sample packs. best group was exacts followed by crow mags and neither were very good and only get worse as I shoot.
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Good Grief Bruce?>>!!!!
I read your post and am of like mind with some of the other replies. I didn't read all of them, but I wanted to ask you:
"Did you upgrade the scope rings to something with more than two screws in it?"
I think you have a GT sports car with trailer tires on it!!!
Let us know...
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Clean the barrel.
Clean the barrel.
Clean the barrel.
Now try again.
-Y
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I've got a 135, 155, 100x and a 200s carbine all .177. All I did was adjust the triggers best I could, scoped them with UTG's or Hammers and enjoy shooting them. They shoot good.
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As said, BRUTAL shot cycle dispatches scopes, especially the 125. Anything you can do helps ... biggest two parachute seal (not factory style) and filling the stock. I used expanding foam but forgot the pistol grip - I can tell ???
Some people say bedding the receiver helps too & definitely what Kirk & Paul said - the right pellet (fit). Ask an expert who's the expert you WILL hear their names ;D
Mine's a BEAST.
.02 ;)