GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => China/Asian AirGun Gate => Topic started by: jus Tom on April 05, 2014, 04:00:03 PM
-
I've done some searching but could not find my answer.....So I'm posting in hopes another could offer advise.
I installed the GRT lll on my Stoeger X20S and kept the factory second-stage adjustment screw intact,, before any experimenting,, does the screw still work with the GRT lll or is it now useless and should be removed.
Thanks for any reply.
-
That should have been covered in the instructions. On a Crosman you remove the screw and the plastic block in which it sits when you install the GRT III. The common screw in the GRT III is the second stage adjustment. The tiny Allen screw is the first stage. Generally you don't need to mess with it at all. In fact you should do very little with the second stage screw.
-
Removing the stock adjustment screw and plastic block are like the very first stages of installing a GRT-III trigger. They serve no practical purpose after a GRT-III is installed as it doesn't use the same method for adjustment. To be honest I can't really see how that hairspring resting on a screw made a blind bit of difference to trigger sensitivity anyway.
-
Okay,, so after reading your responses I went back to the CDT website and re-watched the GRT lll / Stoeger x20 installation video.....once AGAIN I noticed the factory adjustment screw was NOT removed nor were any adjustments made to it during filming.
The video deals with trigger installation and filing the safety tang for pin clearance, a very straight forward and easy process.
When I opened the packaged trigger I found only a slip of paper with links to the website,, links which I had already viewed/read prior to ordering the trigger. Upon my first shooting with the new trigger I found it to be "scary" hair trigger light, yet I recalled reading the linked instruction mentioning second stage adjustment in tiny increments (1/16 turn),, I was turning counter-clockwise quarter to half-turns and getting very little noticeable resistance difference until the screw was nearly out to where my finger could feel it protruding its' threaded hole. That just doesn't go along with the instructional read which is why I began to wonder about the factory screw, still in there and adjusted out to where I had it set for the factory trigger.
I will need to break the gun down again, visually inspect the trigger operation and try to notice anything that screw interacts with on the GRT, if it does, remove it and start the process all over.
Thanks again for the replies.
-
You'll need to take the stock off your rifle but you can then remove the stock trigger adjustment screw and plastic block WITHOUT having to start trigger installation over again.
-
Flyboy, previous of your recent post..... I just finished putting the rifle back together after removing the stock and investigating the detailed operation of what that screw actually controls in the mechanism.
I removed the GRT trigger and the factory screw and upon having a better view of things I notice there's a spring tensioned "rocker bar" that has lobes, which I figured is for adjustment of the factory trigger stages. When I returned the screw into the plastic block and ran it in the lobed rocker bar moved in a manner allowing me to better understand the tolerances in stage adjustment.
While the screw was removed I attempted to re-install the GRT with no luck as the rocker bar tension would not permit the pin to align through the housing. (could've been due to GRT screw setting) I chose to re-insert the adjustment screw which allowed once again for a simple drop in installation of the GRT. (possibly why the CDT site video allows the screw to remain in place ???)
While things were apart I paid close attention to that plastic block which holds that screw, it appears to be pressed into the housing securely and has no interference with the GRT whatsoever.
So,, at my next shooting session I will remove the factory screw, re-adjust the GRT second stage screw as necessary hopefully with a good experience.
-
There are special instructions for the Stoeger GRT-III install. Click on the "Here" link for special instructions.
Look here and scroll down to this Note. http://charliedatuna.com/GRT-III%20Trigger%20New.htm (http://charliedatuna.com/GRT-III%20Trigger%20New.htm)
NOTE: ***Stoeger X-10, X20 and X-50 see the
special instructions and to see the
instruction video, click HERE
Gene
-
I owned the X20S and installed the trigger. I followed the video exaclty and all ended up well.
-
That's great news Jay. Not that hard to do really if you follow the instructions. I have a Stoeger X20 and the GRT-III made a world of difference.
Thanks
Gene
-
Seems, some how, some one turned my question about a factory adjustment screw into a "problem with a GRT lll thread"..? There was.. is NO problem !
I watched the video before I installed the trigger and it went in easily without issue. I did find it to be set to light for my liking, and safe handling. I adjusted the second stage screw out to get it where I was more comfortable with it, but it's still lighter than I need it to be.
It was then I began to wonder about the factory screw and if it has anything to do with the adjustment of the GRT...... that's ALL I need to know.
I'm older, still have good, corrected vision,,, the video shows the screw being left in and it appears to be screwed in the whole way. HOW does my question refer that I didn't follow instructions ?
-
The factory screw in the rear should be removed. The black grub screw if turned in to far will make your trigger sensitive and sometime unsafe.
Gene
-
Thank You Gene. The answer I've been looking for.
You mention "black grub screw", you're speaking of the GRT small allen head screw ? first I've ever heard them called that.
-
LOL ya, the socket head small screw. I send the alan wrench for it with the new triggers.
Gene