GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: RedRiderF26 on February 24, 2014, 01:03:36 AM
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Gonna replace the breech seal and piston seal. What lube should I use?
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Gonna replace the breech seal and piston seal. What lube should I use?
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA2/library/Springer_Airgun_Lubing.doc (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA2/library/Springer_Airgun_Lubing.doc)
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I kind of buck the traditional and use Ultimox...
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I kind of buck the traditional and use Ultimox...
Me too! I've found that the "diesel-less, non black" Krytox/Ultimox works better than dieseling molly paste or factory greases/oils!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/2ozGPL205.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Mods/2ozGPL205.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/Ultimox226.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Mods/Ultimox226.jpg.html)
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Nothing beats Silicone Vacuum Grease....
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Nothing beats Silicone Vacuum Grease....
Problem is that silicone is a POOR metal lube so the sliding metal parts that gets this stuff on them is poorly lubed! If to have a lathe or drill press this can easily be demonstrated. Chuck a piece of steel rod lubed with "bearing grease" in the chuck and start spinning, then hold another piece of steel bar against the spinning rod and take note of how long it takes for the metal to start galling. Now do the same thing with a silicone grease lubed steel rod.....almost instant galling. Silicone IS a good "rubber lube" but once it gets transferred to metal parts (like piston and receiver tube)........not so good.
Again, it's rather easy to test! I even loaded some 100% silicone grease with some 5 micron molly powder thinking that the silicone would lube the piston seal and the molly would lube the sliding metal parts. Well, I found that just plain ole dry graphite for locks made a better lube than molly in 100% silicone grease. Different strokes for different folks! :o
Anywhoo......for a few decades I used the standard "molly paste and tar" for my springer lubing and it worked very well as long as it was properly applied! A couple seasons ago I started using the "innert Krytox & Ultimox stuff" and after a couple seasons it has performed better than the old school petroleum based lubes and lubes with molly powder suspended in a petroleum carrier, but time will tell!
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Nothing beats Silicone Vacuum Grease....
Problem is that silicone is a POOR metal lube so the sliding metal parts that gets this stuff on them is poorly lubed! If to have a lathe or drill press this can easily be demonstrated. Chuck a piece of steel rod lubed with "bearing grease" in the chuck and start spinning, then hold another piece of steel bar against the spinning rod and take note of how long it takes for the metal to start galling. Now do the same thing with a silicone grease lubed steel rod.....almost instant galling. Silicone IS a good "rubber lube" but once it gets transferred to metal parts (like piston and receiver tube)........not so good.
Again, it's rather easy to test! I even loaded some 100% silicone grease with some 5 micron molly powder thinking that the silicone would lube the piston seal and the molly would lube the sliding metal parts. Well, I found that just plain ole dry graphite for locks made a better lube than molly in 100% silicone grease. Different strokes for different folks! :o
Anywhoo......for a few decades I used the standard "molly paste and tar" for my springer lubing and it worked very well as long as it was properly applied! A couple seasons ago I started using the "innert Krytox & Ultimox stuff" and after a couple seasons it has performed better than the old school petroleum based lubes and lubes with molly powder suspended in a petroleum carrier, but time will tell!
This is used for O-rings not piston seals and such. Vacuum Grease I use for O-rings only...
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Nothing beats Silicone Vacuum Grease....
Problem is that silicone is a POOR metal lube so the sliding metal parts that gets this stuff on them is poorly lubed! If to have a lathe or drill press this can easily be demonstrated. Chuck a piece of steel rod lubed with "bearing grease" in the chuck and start spinning, then hold another piece of steel bar against the spinning rod and take note of how long it takes for the metal to start galling. Now do the same thing with a silicone grease lubed steel rod.....almost instant galling. Silicone IS a good "rubber lube" but once it gets transferred to metal parts (like piston and receiver tube)........not so good.
Again, it's rather easy to test! I even loaded some 100% silicone grease with some 5 micron molly powder thinking that the silicone would lube the piston seal and the molly would lube the sliding metal parts. Well, I found that just plain ole dry graphite for locks made a better lube than molly in 100% silicone grease. Different strokes for different folks! :o
Anywhoo......for a few decades I used the standard "molly paste and tar" for my springer lubing and it worked very well as long as it was properly applied! A couple seasons ago I started using the "innert Krytox & Ultimox stuff" and after a couple seasons it has performed better than the old school petroleum based lubes and lubes with molly powder suspended in a petroleum carrier, but time will tell!
This is used for O-rings not piston seals and such. Vacuum Grease I use for O-rings only...
OK....I agree, however this was the original question..........."Gonna replace the breech seal and piston seal. What lube should I use?" so I thought you were also referring to it.